Using 30 qwg kqmthal 6 wraps on a cyclone atty with a tridentech mod looked for shorta even spacing ways going on?
keep popping coil
- Thread starter xlambox029
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The coils are pppping ill wrap it and go to fire after checking with my built in ohm reader on my vv usually is about and wear from =
.8 done to .1i do t reall like running sub oh. But figured of try it see what the title is about but they all have fire but immedinetly popped a coil
.8 done to .1i do t reall like running sub oh. But figured of try it see what the title is about but they all have fire but immedinetly popped a coil
.1 is far too low, I don't know anyone that goes under .6 (but I'm sure there are some out there). The Kanthal is probably part of the issue running that low. Try some 26 ga and even better, use ribbon and not wire. It's hard to melt kanthal but one weak spot and you coil is shot. You should check this out as well before you get too far into your sub-ohm adventure.
www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tutorials/449892-beginners-guide-sub-ohm-vaping.html
www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tutorials/449892-beginners-guide-sub-ohm-vaping.html
I do want to stress here too that you are at SERIOUSLY unsafe ohm levels. I really should have pointed that out sooner. There is a really good possibility that you could end up with a run away battery and a pipe bomb in you hand. It might be a good time to back up a little and do a little more research before you go any farther
xlambox, your spelling makes it a bit hard to read your post.
Are you using the dripper or tank version of the Cyclone? Silica wick or SS?
So, I think you're saying that your resistance varies between 0.8 and 0.1 ohms. Six wraps with 30 gauge Kanthal will not be that low, so you have a short. Do not fire it if it's below about 0.5 ohms unless you know your battery can handle the amps it will draw. BTW, 0.1 ohms will draw about 37 amps, which is more than any battery I know of can handle, so it's good that the coil popped or you might have had a problem.
Sry spelling on my phone is hard. I run a rda cyclone atty on a trident mech mod. I usually use 32 awg 5 wraps at about 1.3. When I tried the 30 awg it would vary between .8, so I kep spacing the coils made sure there were nothing touching with the final check at .6 when o went to fire it heated up perfect then bam coil snapped (popped) is realll like to be at least a1 ohm. Batteries are rated for a 10 amp load. Even at .6 I shoildnt be running more then 10 amps.
Ran into this problem on my RSSTs. Used 32 and 30 in a 5/6 wrap and 6/7 wrap respectively, each time started to pulse to check for hot spots, shorts, and even heating, the wire would melt and pop right at the center pin connection or the base connection. Re-did them with 28 ga wire and haven't had a problem since. So maybe stepping up to 28 or even 26 ga might solve your issue as it can handle the load better.
Hitting .6 ohms with 30awg is not the same as hitting .6 with 28awg. 30awg is thinner, and higher resistance per inch. This concentrates the heat to a more localized area, for lack of a better way to phrase it. Think of it this way, if you apply the same voltage to 2 coils (4.0v, we'll say), one made with 28awg, and one made with 30awg, but both at 1.5 ohm; you are applying 10.66w of power. Hold down the button for 5 seconds, and both should generate about 36.4 BTU of heat; The issue is, this heat is being generated by only about 2" of 30awg, where the heat is spread out over 3" with the 28awg. It's like applying a torch flame to a piece of foil, and a beer can. It's all aluminum, but you'll burn through the foil faster cause it's thinner.
Hey, if your doing a dripping atty like the cyclone, look into microcoils. I make FAT clouds with a 1.6 ohm coil, and my battery lasts ALL DAY!
Hey, if your doing a dripping atty like the cyclone, look into microcoils. I make FAT clouds with a 1.6 ohm coil, and my battery lasts ALL DAY!
I would have this problem with my AGA T2 as well. What I found personally is my SS wick wasn't oxidized correctly. Yanked it out, and started over. Not being oxidized the way it should have been, was causing a short. I also went to ACE hardware, got me a couple of miniature washers to put under one of the nuts and that bridges the gap between the center post and wick making it so I dont have to do any bending of the wick to shorten that bridge.
This happened mostly when I was using 32 gauge, switched to 30 gauge and it has only happened once cause of my carelessness. Always check your resistance.
This happened mostly when I was using 32 gauge, switched to 30 gauge and it has only happened once cause of my carelessness. Always check your resistance.
Here is a mature thread on micro coils with everything you want to know. I have not tried this yet. As far as I know, one benefit is you can get more vaporization from lower power because you are concentrating the heat in a smaller volume. That's probably not correct, but it is as I understand it from the little reading I have done about it.
Got it. Didn't know you were on a phone.
If you are using silica, or something non-metalic, you should not be shorting and should be able to quickly check for heat and make the wick wet. If the resistance is changing in this case, I think the coil is shorting somewhere. Check that it's not too close to the RDA surfaces and posts.
If you are usiing SS, yes, this happens when the wick is not oxidized properly.
I had the same experience with 27 gauge wire. Much easier to work with using SS wicks during setup and later also. The thicker wire also gives you more surface area to heat juice keeping the juice from burning at higher power. I'm also using a 10 A battery minimum and use 3/4 wrap coils on SS at 0.6 ohms in an AGA-T.
I go .4 - .8 all day w/ no problems...
If you want advice from someone who has been vaping .4 - .8 - I advise usin g 28 gauge kanthal, 3 wraps around your wick. For wicks I use 3mm silica, for each wick i use 3x .5" cut off strips, and i wrap all 3 strands together, 3 rotations with 28 ga Kanthal. Each coil measures out on the multimeter to roughly .8 - 1.0ohm - together with dual coils, .4 - .5 depending on how big your wraps are with your 28ga Kanthal.
It's been my tried and true wrap method. I've wrapped well over 100 coils that same exact way. Some advice, if you're a lung hitter, meaning you inhale through your vape like a ..../hookah/ - deep into your lungs and exhale - Make sure you drill your air holes out to at least 1/16. I personally prefer 2x holes drilled out to 3/32 size drill bit. Which is equivalent to 2.5mm roughly. If you do not expand your air hole, your device will get too hot, and you won't be getting the proper vapor production - this can also greatly effect the flavor.
Hope this helps, Vape.0n!
Sorry, I don't get over here as much as I would like. The thread that Ryedan provided is good recommended reading for micro-coils. The benefits to micros:
1. Use use more wraps of a lower gauge, thicker wire, which would help with your coil-pop issues.
2. You can get great vapor out of a higher ohm coil, extending battery life, and it's easier on your batteries, overall.
3. You get fantastic flavor. My theory is, all the juice under the coil is getting vaped each time you press the button. New juice is only coming in from the sides. With a wide, spaced-out coil, only the juice directly under the wire is getting vaped, leading to stagnate little pockets of juice that are getting heated over and over again between the coils. Just a theory.
4. your wicking material tends to stay cleaner, longer.
5. You can reuse the same microcoil over and over, changing only wicking material.
6. The coil heats up faster. My theory is because each wrap isn't only heating from voltage, it's also getting "preheated" by it's neighbor. Once again, just a theory.
Disadvantages
1. They take longer to wrap
2. getting all the coils to touch is a PITA
3. You have to use a high-output wicking material... regular silica doesn't seem to cut it. I like rolled cotton, myself.
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