Kennedy Enterprises: The Ruby Mod

[sig-cmt]

General Notes:

• Three Post Design
• 24mm Outside Diameter
• 113mm Overall Height w/o Drip Tip
• Ø4.5mm Center Post w/ Ø2.5mm Post Hole
• 1 x 4-40 x 3/16 #1 Phillips Positive Post Screw

• Available in the Ruby Rebuild Kit​

• 2 x 2-56 x 3/16 #1 Phillips Negative Post Screw

• Available in the Ruby Rebuild Kit​

• CNC Engraved Branding and Serial Number
• Available in Copper/Brass/Stainless Steel

• Limited Editions & Giveaways on Instagram​

• Switch Self-Adjusts for Battery Rattle

• 1 x AS568-112N70 O-ring

• Functions as Battery Standoff
• Available in the Ruby Rebuild Kit​

• 4 x Ø3.5mm Bottom Air Flow Tubes
• True Hybrid Design w/o 510 Threads
• Designed & Machined in the USA
• Friction Fit Ø11mm Bore Drip Tip

• Available in Cu/Brass/SS/Black Delrin​

• Single Piece Button/Contact
• 6.5mm Deep juice Well

• 1.4ml Maximum Capacity​

• 2 x 19x1N70 O-ring

• Secures Top Cap to Deck Base
• Available in the Ruby Rebuild Kit​

• 1 x AS568-112N70 O-ring

• Secures Friction Fit Drip Tip​

Simple Test Build:

Dual 22g 316L Ø3.75mm 7/6 wrap. Expected resistance of 0.11Ω to 0.12Ω. A Scotts Mod ORDTS.2 firing multimeter was used to examine the voltage drop characteristics of several brown HB4 cells on a similarly built K24 before use in the Ruby.

[ 2 x #10-24 Oval Head 316L Machine Screw ]

Positive Impressions:

• Domed chamber of top cap improves laminar flow.
• Completely tool-free take down reduces maintenance time.
• Juice overflows along the exterior of the mod and not to the 510.
• Single piece button/contact eliminates the prospect of contact cam-out.
• Larger center post hole accomodates larger builds such as dual twisted 22g.
• True hybrid design equates to fewer points of failure with threads located at the switch only.
• Superb heatsinking qualities of hybrid mods reduce carbonization along coil builds.
• Multiple cap and tip options help dictate the overall vaping experience.

• Dragon Cap | Slam Cap 24 | Demon Cap 24 | Fat Dragon Tip​

• Multiple finishes satisfy aesthetic and durability concerns.

[ Black Cerakote Dragon Cap + Black Fat Dragon Tip w/ LG HB4 Installed ]

Negative Impressions:

• Verifying resistance requires the use of an analog/digital VM/MM/mΩ Meter.
• Negative contact protection and maintenance requires the use of an extension tool.

• 1/4" Acetal rod cut to size is a widely available extension solution.​

• Limited to the build deck of the Kennedy 24 (with a larger center post).
• Building on the mod can be awkward due to odd angles of leverage.

• VapeNutt VNC and/or padded vise provide adequate stability for rebuilding.​

[ TIDI Rayon 969162 @ 100% Wick Tails ]

Additional Commentary:

This post offers a recommended method to check for resistances ≥ 0.1Ω. A short will reveal itself as a ranging ohm reading. An experimental build should be tested on a K24 and its resistance verified on a high-quality meter as a point of reference. The Ruby is ~1mm shorter than a K24 on a Roundhouse. Outside of being a true hybrid, the design of the switch is perhaps the highlight of the mod. Self-adjusting, single piece button/contact. Large positive/negative contact and threaded surface areas. Make no mistake about it: The Ruby is designed for use with the battery positive oriented in the direction of the switch. Please do verify the integrity of your wraps before cell installation. The switch should be finger-tightened only. This facilitates the emergency opening of the circuit in the event of a failure. The use of a drive tool to apply additional fastening torque is strongly discouraged. Suggested ways to maintain the upper negative contact include sandpaper or a wad of Scotch-Brite on an extension tool, the use of a fiberglass scratch pen, or a common pencil eraser. Contact protection is recommended in the form of an applied corrosion inhibitor (e.g. DeOxit Gold G-Series). I would have preferred the firing spring be wound from beryllium copper and may commission a commercial run of C17500 or C17510 compression springs to retrofit with in the future. Securing the mod between the padded jaws of a vise, or within a VapeNutt VNC can improve stability when building. Decapping is the recommended filling method. Rather than painting coils, best results are obtained by saturating the cavities in between the deck and the airflow tubes/negative posts. The Fat Dragon Tip has proven to be an effective means to increase negative draw volume and allows for personalization with a number of material and color choices. The limited production Slam Cap 24 reduces vapor delivery path and shortens the overall height of the atomizer section to provide flavor chasers with the condensed vapor they seek. Final thought: The Ruby Mod is arguably the hardest hitting, single tube mechanical hybrid currently available with thousands of possible personal permutations.

[ The Ruby Switch: Firing Button (+) Indicates Polarity Orientation ]

Fat Dragon Tip (Accessory):

[ Note the Bore Diameter of the Fat Dragon Tip ]

• May reduce rate of coil carbonization by improving heat dissipation.
• Greater draw volume for increased airflow rate and vapor production.
• Friction fit for the Ruby/K24/K22. Bore tapers from ~Ø13mm to ~Ø11.25mm.
• Improved (visual) juice capacity feedback reduces the prospect of overdripping.
• Fat Dragon Tip available in assorted colors direct from Kennedy Enterprises.

• Copper | Brass | Stainless Steel | Black Delrin | Colored Acrylic​

• Radiused and more comfortable to vape than the standard tip (YMMV).

Slam Cap 24 (Accessory):

[ Made in the USA: Ruby Red Swirl | White | Dark Blue Swirl ]

• Domed Chamber
• 24mm Outside Diameter
• 22mm Height w/o Drip Tip

• Dragon Cap = 24.5mm w/o Drip Tip​

• Virtually No Loss in Vapor Production
• Standard K24 Drip Tips Extend into Chamber

• Use K24 Drip Tips w/ 4.5mm Neck​

• Shorter Chamber = Reduced Air-to-Vapor Ratio
• Reduced Air-toVapor Ratio = Condensed Vapor
• Condensed Vapor = Greater Potential Flavor
• Available in Cu/Brass/SS/Black Cerakote
• 1 x AS568-112N70 O-ring

• Secures Friction Fit Drip Tip​

• CNC Engraved Branding
• Limited Production Part

[ Slam Cap 24 | Dragon Cap | Slam Cap 24 ]

tl;dr: The Ruby Mod is a hard-hitting, true hybrid mechanical device which satisfies both flavor and cloud chasers with its improved K24 deck and its ability to suit various vaping styles with an impressive array of top cap and drip tip options.

Related Posts & Threads:

• Kennedy Enterprises: The Kennedy 24

 

[HauntedMyst]

Ya know, I've been vaping for 3 years and coil building for 2 and 1/2 and I have never seen anyone use a screw for wrapping. Brilliant in it's simplicity!

 

[f1vefour]

Ya know, I've been vaping for 3 years and coil building for 2 and 1/2 and I have never seen anyone use a screw for wrapping. Brilliant in it's simplicity!

I know a lot of people who wrap on a machine screw for those perfectly spaced wraps.

 

[Nikea Tiber]

If you have used ni200 it is basically mandatory to wrap on a screw to get reasonably consistent coils.

 

[Verb]

I added a silk thread wrap to my Ruby today. I had enough black hand. Fairly comfortable. Should ware soft.

 

[Ben85]

Thanks for the great info.

This mod is dead pretty. I am more than a bit tempted to get one. A SS one would look great in my hand I reckon...

 

[sig-cmt]

Measuring Resistances ≥ 0.1Ω:

[ A = Measure the Resistance of the Test Leads]

[ B = Make Solid Contact Between Clean Surfaces & Perform Measurement ]

[ C = Subtract B from A to Obtain Resistance Readings ≥ 0.1Ω ]

Due to the 0.1Ω resolution limitation of typical handheld DMMs, it is recommended to pursue alternative tools for measuring build resistances.

Alternative Measurement Tools:

• Digital Bench Multimeter

• Minimum Resolution of 0.01Ω at Lowest Resistance Range​

• e.g. Fluke 8845A | 8846A​

• Dedicated Milliohm Meter

• Minimum Resolution of 0.01Ω at Lowest Resistance Range​

• e.g. HIOKI RM3543 | RM3544​

 

[entropy1049]

If you don't have access to a bench tester, I'd add a good "poor man's" method to determine resistance to two decimal points (with some margin of error) is to obtain voltage, then measure current draw with your DMM (you may have to estimate a mid range as the current will be fluctuating), and perform an Ohm's law calculation.

Not as accurate as a $1000 bench tester, but it beats guessing for that second decimal place...

 

[sig-cmt]

That is a feasible alternative if you expect your current draw to be 20A or less as most DMMs feature an 11A fuse with only momentary support for 20A overloads. Builds ≤ 0.1Ω continue to remain the exclusive domain of bench instruments.

 

[big4570]

Any idea's on how to clean the positive contact?

 

[sig-cmt]

Make no mistake about it: The Ruby is designed for use with the battery positive oriented in the direction of the switch. Please do verify the integrity of your wraps before cell installation. Suggested ways to clean the upper negative contact (or the upper positive contact, if you insist on such an orientation) include sandpaper or a wad of Scotch-Brite on an extension tool, the use of a fiberglass scratch pen, or a common pencil eraser. Tmodcustoms offers a Delrin extension tool featuring replaceable circles of hook & loop sandpaper.

 

[Ben85]

Anyone pick up a ruby clone yet?

 

[McAnythingReally]

I know a few people over at Fasttech have bought a few of them, and they're all impressed with them thus far. Seeing a few pictures they look pretty sharp, not quite 1:1 but for basically 1/10th the price of the authentic, I think we can forgive a few minor details lol.

 

[mhertz]

Thanks Mc! I haven't kept up 100% with new listings lately on FT/FC(except mech boxes), but have in the past often did a search for "ruby" without anything showing. Now I see its called "kennedy 24 styled rda atomizer + 18650 mechanical mod kit".

Currently im not really that interested in tubes, for the too short battery-life on low builds(changing cells e.g. 8 times a day, and when driving them hard(but within reason), means much less longevity/cycle-life), but the ruby and the roundhouse really tickles my interest...

FT haven't yet a copper roundhouse and the FT copper ruby hasen't any valuable discussions yet or reviews, so i'll wait some more, but thanks again mate!

 

[McAnythingReally]

I would shy away from the Copper Ruby mod that FT has listed, I too am waiting for the Copper Roundhouse clone to come around, hopefully we will see that this week, we tend to get these types of mods in groups.

In regards to the Copper Ruby mod, the fact that they couldn't be bothered to machine the air flow tubes properly(its a block of copper in the middle of the deck, with 2 holes drilled into it.) leads me to beleive the rest of the mod is probably not up to par. The Airflow on a Kennedy is one of the major points, and if you are overlooking a major point, whats to say they even cared to use PEEK, or made the Positive pin safely.

I am a huge clone fan, but the Ruby mods have me skeptical at best right now. The brass one looks solid, and has good reviews, so if anything, thats the route to take right now. Im sure over the next few weeks well see more of them.

 

[Verb]

View attachment 549873

Just a heads up to folks. The LG HB4 has a raised positive terminal and will autofire in a positve down orientation. Any button top would too but who's running those.

 

[sig-cmt]

I was debating whether to address this issue as part of this thread, but in retrospect I should not have been debating the thought at all. Safety first. Your concern was noted a month ago. I posted a valid workaround here a few days ago. I will reshoot a few shots for improved clarity in the near future. What follows is the textual content of the bypass (updated for the Ruby/Roundhouse):

LG HB4 Mustard Workaround:

The mustard wrapped HB4 includes a cover cap which extends further past the cylinder than that of other flat-top 18650 cells in general. This poses a problem when used with certain mechanicals which expect the positive to be oriented towards available bottom venting. Essentially, the O-ring standoff fails to provide adequate distance between the positive contact of the mod and of the installed cell. This presents a fault which can and will lead to an autofiring device. One workaround is to increase the number of positive insulators in an effort to shim the differential distance between the cylinder and the cover cap before rewrapping the battery.

 

[Ben85]

I couldn't resist the lure of the clones any longer, so I have a brass version on the way.

Mhertz, I'll post a few pics and up when I get it. Might help you pull the trigger on getting one (or avoiding one!).

 

[sig-cmt]

...I'll post a few pics and up when I get it.

Not brass, but this is about all I can do to supplement the images already posted...

[ Copper | Stainless Steel + Dragon Cap + Standard Drip Tip ]

 

[Ben85]

Well my clone has arrived (how quick was that?!) and initial impressions are very impressive. The cap looks spot on (engraving not as deep as the authentic maybe), the switch looks spot on and the threading is buttery smooth. The only negative I can see so far are the holes on the posts which look a little untidy. It came with a Pyrex too cap which was a bonus and a good selection of spares.

Pics to follow...