Kick question

[Tabfreejon]

I feel like I'm missing something obvious here.

I'm weighing up the benefits of Kicking my mechs and, to be honest, I don't really see any.

Assuming I am capable of consistently building a coil at 1.176ohms, then even at 4.2v, that's only 15watts. The Kick only regulates up to 15watts. So what is the benefit? Even on a 18350 I'm way under on my "safe" amps.

Therefore, assuming I'm running all my coils at 1.176ohms or lower, the Kick is useless.

I appreciate the "low battery warning", but with a pass through volt meter, that does the same job for checking.

I also appreciate the "cut off", but a fuse does the same job.

Am I missing something?

 

[SleeZy]

I wonder the same actually, as i'm getting into mods. And those over at FT doesn't seem to reliable either.
My only concern is how i should know when it's time for a recharge. People tell me that "you'll notice it produce less vapor" But well is it realy THAT obvious or?

 

[Baditude]

Not only will a Kick provide you with the same protection circuitry that a regulated mod has, it will "regulate" your power output to be consistant throughout your battery's useful charge. Instead of declining along with the battery voltage, your last puff will be nearly as good as your first.

 

[SleeZy]

Hmm that's a good point actually...

 

[Rickajho]

My dilemma with a Kick is I like the regulation, but I don't like the PWM effect put into the experience.

 

[Tabfreejon]

That is a bloody good point Baditude.

However, if I'm setting a Kick at 15watts, on an 18350, do I really want to experience the pwm effect? In a way, it concerns me more that something is drawing more power from my battery to provide a constant output. Rather than me simply knowing that my battery voltage has dropped, and so it's time for me to change my battery.

Does that make sense?

 

[SoberSnyper]

That is a bloody good point Baditude.

However, if I'm setting a Kick at 15watts, on an 18350, do I really want to experience the pwm effect? In a way, it concerns me more that something is drawing more power from my battery to provide a constant output. Rather than me simply knowing that my battery voltage has dropped, and so it's time for me to change my battery.

Does that make sense?

The Kick does not use PWM.

 

[SoberSnyper]

My dilemma with a Kick is I like the regulation, but I don't like the PWM effect put into the experience.

There is no PWM with the Kick.

 

[SleeZy]

There is no PWM with the Kick.

I read that FT ones does. Other brands i've no clue.

 

[Rickajho]

Both the Sigelei and Smok clones are in fact 33 Hz PWM devices. Got 'em, tested 'em, ECD meter shows a very solid 33 Hz PWM device. Evolve may be doing something else but I would still like to see the output of the Evolv Kicks on a 'scope.

 

[^Top-Shelf^]

Fast forward to 13:30 to see the flat signal on the scope. I believe it uses something in the range of 500-800 hertz
A PBusardo Review - The Kick by Evolvapor - ElectronicStix - YouTube

Also China has cloned a dna 20 type device that has a flat signal, so won't be long before that chip is put into a kick type device.

 

[SleeZy]

Were is it possible to get an evolv for a decent price?
I'm still unsure if i'm gonna buy one. but if i'm going to it's better to just buy the real deal.

Edit:
This can't be good can it?

"low battery cutoff: 2.7 Volts loaded"
Most batteries shouldn't go lower than 3,3 or so i've read? Draining them to far will make them dangerous or even malfunction...

 

[^Top-Shelf^]

They're available on evolv's website for $20 or $40 for the kick2.
The evolv kick will shut off at 3.2 under load.
Most good batteries can go down to 2.8 with no problems, I sometimes recharge my AW's when they get down to 3v.

 

[Kim B.]

Not only will a Kick provide you with the same protection circuitry that a regulated mod has, it will "regulate" your power output to be consistant throughout your battery's useful charge. Instead of declining along with the battery voltage, your last puff will be nearly as good as your first.

Thanks for the comments Bad. I'm currently exploring the world of mech mods, doing lots of reading and watching reviews and trying to decide which one is best for me. Frankly, they make me a bit nervous and running a kick on a mech would make me feel safer having that same circuit protection I get from the regulated PV (iTaste vv v3) I'm using now. I would be content to keep using the iTaste vv v3s (or any similar vv vw pv) but who knows what impact potential future taxation and/or restrictions will have regarding the availability and cost of them? I think it's best to prepare for the worst and add a mech mod to my collection.

 

[D. Waterhouse]

Were is it possible to get an evolv for a decent price?
I'm still unsure if i'm gonna buy one. but if i'm going to it's better to just buy the real deal.

Kick 2 At 45 bucks for the real deal I don't see the point of buying the clones.

Mind you I won't be getting one because I've been vaping unregulated devices for four and a half years and don't see the need for it in a mech. I love my SID and SVD but I don't vape my mechs in the same way as those. I use my mechs at my desk at home with drippers for fooling around and my SID and SVD for simple, reliable vaping when out and about.

 

[SleeZy]

They're available on evolv's website for $20 or $40 for the kick2.
The evolv kick will shut off at 3.2 under load.
Most good batteries can go down to 2.8 with no problems, I sometimes recharge my AW's when they get down to 3v.

Yea i saw it, 40$ for v2 one. There's where i got my quote from. And the be fair the biggest reason for me to get one would be the battery cutoff safety (So i don't over disscharge it)
And it says 2.7. I'm not sure if i'll be confident with that I mean unregulated i'm sure i'll noticed 3v vs 4.2 ofc. But with a kick it'll feel the same until the battery are drained, as you said. So wouldn't that increase the risks for overdischarging it? The reasons for all the questions is because i'm rather safe than sorry. I'm going with AW IMRs 2100mah i believe. Or sony vtc4 ones.

Thanks for the comments Bad. I'm currently exploring the world of mech mods, doing lots of reading and watching reviews and trying to decide which one is best for me. Frankly, they make me a bit nervous and running a kick on a mech would make me feel safer having that same circuit protection I get from the regulated PV (iTaste vv v3) I'm using now. I would be content to keep using the iTaste vv v3s (or any vv vw pv) , but who knows what impact potential future taxation and/or restrictions will have regarding the availability and cost of them? I think it's best to prepare for the worst and add a mech mod to my collection

That's kind of my thought aswell As they're going to ban them pretty much totaly in sweden. You'll only be able to buy them on pharma stores. And cig-alikes to that... -.-' "to ensure safety" mm yes... right.

Edit:

Kick 2 At 45 bucks for the real deal I don't see the point of buying the clones.

Mind you I won't be getting one because I've been vaping unregulated devices for four and a half years and don't see the need for it in a mech. I love my SID and SVD but I don't vape my mechs in the same way as those. I use my mechs at my desk at home with drippers for fooling around and my SID and SVD for simple, reliable vaping when out and about.

As above the only reason would be to ensure that i won't over discharge it.
I can buy one locally for about 25$ | However i think that's the same stuff that FT ships for 8$ Maybe someone here could tell by looking at the picture? 5-10w ehm low. and requires 1.5 atty
http://www.lightyourfire.se/el-cigg-batteri/mods/e-cigg-moddar-18350-18650/e-cigarett-kick

 

[D. Waterhouse]

I thought of a good metaphor.

It's like a stick shift vs an automatic. With practice a stick will give you more control and better performance but if you are driving around city streets looking for something or are other wise busy an automatic is nice because it give you one less thing to deal with. Unregulated devices are fun but regulated devices are easy and that's not a bad thing just not what I'm always looking for.

 

[SleeZy]

I thought of a good metaphor.

It's like a stick shift vs an automatic. With practice a stick will give you more control and better performance but if you are driving around city streets looking for something or are other wise busy an automatic is nice because it give you one less thing to deal with. Unregulated devices are fun but regulated devices are easy and that's not a bad thing just not what I'm always looking for.

Yea i've heard about that one.
Well i'll prolly go unregulated but with a fuse (As i'm new to this) And i'm not planning to subohm either.
Only thing that grinds my gear is, that i'm abit uncertain on the over discharge part. But i will probably notice when it's declining as people say. Another thing i could do is use it say, an hour and measure it. Use it some more then measure again. In that way i'll learn about for how long they last.

 

[MamaTried]

My dilemma with a Kick is I like the regulation, but I don't like the PWM effect put into the experience.

Rick, (and others), can you describe the effect of PWM versus DC and how it bothers you?

i realize others have posted that the kick doesn't use PWM, so i guess i'm sorta kinda thread-jacking, and just throwing this question out there.

as a retired engineer, i can't wrap my head around why PWM is bad or suboptimal. (other than the occasional aural rattlesnake thingy). i can't believe it affects heating up a freakin piece of wire. maybe DC will heat it up milliseconds sooner than PWM, but that's about it, IMHO.

i have designed circuits that probably would have performed suboptimally with PWM than direct DC, but we're just talking about a piece of wire in PVs. can anyone point me to a toaster that uses DC instead of AC (which is sorta-kinda like PWM) ? does a DC toaster toast your bread better???

sorry, if this seems antagonistic. and for all i know, you meant the aural rattlesnake thingy. i'd just like someone to explain why PWM is so bad, as far as vape goes. i would like to understand the science behind why people think PWM is bad. maybe an explanation has been posted before, but i missed it.

thanks

ETA: i have no dog in this hunt. i mainly use mechs. really just trying to understand. also, i trust a few people in this thread more than i trust pbusardo, and what i think are some of his silly oscope tests

 

[SleeZy]

Well in my case i'd be annoyed with the rattle snake, more then that i've no opinion as that's not my area