Killer 705 Questions

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It looks to me like the Killer 705 is a lot like a dripper, but having seen some pictures of the inside it greatly resembles the heads of a kanger t3. I've heard it referred to more as a rebuildable cartomizer. I imagine one would wrap their own coils around a wick similar to any other RBA.

I'm curious as to it's performance in relation to cartomizers, wick tanks like the t3, and other dripping atomizers.

I was also wondering which of the Vaporfexion tanks I could fit this into.

Would I be better off sticking to cartomizers?

The fact that it looks really cool is a plus >.>

Edit: I'm more of an XL carto kind of guy, is the killer closer to standard sized cartos? Will I be able to use it in the same tanks I use for an XL Boge carto?
 
As it usually happens, I had the Pro-vex tank bookmarked, and it appears that the Pro-V2 page has been changed since my last visit, and they now offer a package to accommodate the killer 705. So I guess it's now down to which I would prefer.

Does it taste similar to a dripping atomizer? Am I able to use SS mesh wicks or silica wicks? I didn't like how easy it was to burn a wick in the Vivi Nova.
 
Awesome, do you use silica or cotton wicks? I don't understand the resistance and no-resistance wire part, do you combine the two wires? Or can I just use standard kanthal wire for the whole coil? I'm watching a video at the moment of a guy wrapping a coil for the 705, but he's got a thick accent. I'll probably continue to use my cartos for other juices, as I like variety, and it looks like I'll be getting a pro-v2 for the killer 705 and I'm going use pluid in that.

On that note, what oHm are you wrapping the coil at for use in a tank? I don't plan on getting into sub-oHm resistance any time soon, as a mechanical is still further down the vape road.
 
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It looks like you need to solder some non-resistance wire to your kanthal wire. The non-res wire makes contact on the outside of the ceramic cup to the inside of the body of the atty, the positive kanthal side goes to the inside of the ceramic cup to make connection to the pin that connects to the golden post of whatever mod you're attaching it to.

If I understand correctly. I would love if I could clarification on this.
 

Firestorm

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The Killer, Diver, and I think SmokTech Terminator use CE2 ceramic cups to hold the wick and wire. I believe that these type of ceramics are also used in some clearomizers. The ends of the wires go through small holes at the bottom of the cup. The positive end goes down the side and gets pushed underneath (a pin is inserted that makes contact with the wire and ultimately your PV's center post). The negative end goes down the side, through a groove in the threading, and makes contact with the base and the bell when they are tightened together.

I don't think that you can solder the resistance and non-resistance wires. I think that most people twist the wires together or weld them. It's actually really great because you can make a coil of whatever resistance you want.

I've gotten pretty good at twisting the wires together - there are lots of videos on YouTube. I have 32AWG A1 Kanthal and 32AWG Nickel non-resistance wire. I twist the two together and measure out 1.5Ω using my multimeter, make a bend and then twist on another piece of Nickel. I've tried various knots and have a pretty good method with tight and small joints.

There's a great thread that I found here on ECF on how to make your own arc welder for Kanthal, Nichrome, Nickel, and Silver of gauges from 28AWG to 32AWG for about $25. This is my next project.
 
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