Kts telescopic storm

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buffaloguy

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Well the winner is a product called Bar Keepers Friend. I made a thick goopy paste out of it and dipped in the gold plated pieces. The took them out and let the paste dry on the pieces. Then used the scrubber side of a kitchen sponge. Poof, gold plating gone. I cleaned up up and gave a quick buffing with the buffing wheel of my dremel and they cleaned up nice. I need to get some polish for the brass still and there are fine scratches but Im happy with the result.
 

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svenbrant

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ive had both of these in my hands and while they are kind of both similar.. something about the corolla just felt like i was going to break it
just holding it! after removing the top cap i noticed a strange plastic fastener and was immediately put off. the storm on the other hand felt better made to me.. threading and all.
 

White Rabbit

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Hey Guys and Gals,

Lots of your questions are answered in another thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/369007-ggts-clone-ccst-chi-chi-show-tell.html

As far as the finish: You can use hand sanding power with progressively finer grit to get down to pure brass, or as I did, use a Dremel Tool with a nylon brush to easily remove all of the finish down to pure brass. It looks just like gold when polished, however once you get to pure brass, it will either need weekly polishing or a coating of some type of protectant. I just use a little metal polish once a week to keep the gold/chrome looking great.

As far as the switch and heating up, check out the other thread for tons of good info on correcting this little annoyance.

Best Wishes
Wabbit
 

crxess

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What's the reason for sanding down the contact points? Does it make for less voltage loss?

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Correct. It seems like they have some sort of coating on everything. A light sanding has improved performance on all 4 of my CCTS(KTS)
 

Jerms

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Correct. It seems like they have some sort of coating on everything. A light sanding has improved performance on all 4 of my CCTS(KTS)

Okay thanks, I'll have to do that. I read somewhere that this mod has like a 14% loss of power, whereas the K100 and K101 has only 4%.

Is this something I should research so I don't screw things up, or is it idiot proof. I'm thinking just doing a light sanding with high grit sandpaper until I see brass?

I'm in love with mechanicals now that I've received my KTS.

Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2
 

desTROYer

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Okay thanks, I'll have to do that. I read somewhere that this mod has like a 14% loss of power, whereas the K100 and K101 has only 4%.

Is this something I should research so I don't screw things up, or is it idiot proof. I'm thinking just doing a light sanding with high grit sandpaper until I see brass?

I'm in love with mechanicals now that I've received my KTS.

Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2

I have sanded the contacts on the KTS Storm and the TH improved but the K100 out of the box have outperformed the Storm using the same atty and battery. The TH from the K100 is so harsh that I will need to increase the resistance on my atty. I am debating on ordering the K101 next.
 

buffaloguy

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Again as far as sanding the contacts goes, there is a chrome coating over everything. That will come off with sandpaper, or again as I used to take off the gold... bar keepers friend worked great. the plus side to making a paste and using that is that you so not have to worry about oversanding the contacts and then the mod not firing properly.

Ill say it again. Sandpaper isnt necessary to take the gold off and using the product I did will leave minimal scratching to the point where you dont need to keep using progressively smaller grit sandpaper

I have also had to do zero polishing of the brass and it looks fine. No protective coating necessary. Im guessing actual sanding opens the brass up more to oxidation. Bar keepers friend is minimally abrasive so I suspect it left more of the brass surface integrity intact.

Also wanted to note that I never had a hot button issue till I went sub 1ohm. Then it became apparent. My general suggestion is if you go below 1.2 ohms sand or remove the chrome on the post and the end of the switch contact from the get go.
 
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tmoore

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Correct. You want to sand the post the spring sits on top of and the end of the chromed switch plate that contacts it.

And sand the gold off the top of the spring while you're at it; where the spring contacts the battery.
I wanted to sand the battery pos contact point and the 510 pos contact point, but couldn't. They're recessed and I'm using a nail file. Even so, I put a volt meter to the 510 hot and the top of the switch (gold plated), and got exactly the same voltage as touching the battery ends directly. There must be some loss, but it's not discernible on my little multimeter.
 

Exhaler

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What am I missing here? I ordered a KTS Storm on a whim when I saw I could get one for $22. It arrives tomorrow. I have batteries all charged up and ready to go. My problem is I read of people using sub 1 ohm coils and 1 to 1.5 ohms coils (single and dual) on mechanical units (non VV) that start off at 4.2v. By going by the chart (http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m9dkanCt0I1qc8949o2_1280.png) they should be frying their juice and blowing coils. Seems to me one should be using 2.4-3.0 ohm coils, right? Or what are those people doing that I am missing?
Thanks for any help, been trying to figure this out.
 

Jerms

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What am I missing here? I ordered a KTS Storm on a whim when I saw I could get one for $22. It arrives tomorrow. I have batteries all charged up and ready to go. My problem is I read of people using sub 1 ohm coils and 1 to 1.5 ohms coils (single and dual) on mechanical units (non VV) that start off at 4.2v. By going by the chart (http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m9dkanCt0I1qc8949o2_1280.png) they should be frying their juice and blowing coils. Seems to me one should be using 2.4-3.0 ohm coils, right? Or what are those people doing that I am missing?
Thanks for any help, been trying to figure this out.

That chart pretty much only relates to cartos and disposable atties. For rebuildables, the smaller the wire gauge, which means the thicker the wire for the coil, the more watts it takes to heat up. For 28ga wire, 8 watts will barely give it enough heat to warm up. So short answer is, sub-ohm coils uses lower gauge wire, and just as important, lots of air flow. Someone interested in trying it should do a LOT of research first on battery safety, know how many amps there pulling and the specs of their battery, and have a lot of experience wrapping coils.

Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2
 

Exhaler

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Thanks much. I have two Genesis so I have been wrapping coils but more in the 1.8-2.4 range. I think I need to get the thicker wire = lower ohms, lower ohms more resistance takes more volts thing in my head a bit better. I keep getting that confused, old age does those things.

I have studied up on battery safety and specs plus got a reusable 2 cent fuse.
Thanks Jerms, that clarifies it perfectly.


That chart pretty much only relates to cartos and disposable atties. For rebuildables, the smaller the wire gauge, which means the thicker the wire for the coil, the more watts it takes to heat up. For 28ga wire, 8 watts will barely give it enough heat to warm up. So short answer is, sub-ohm coils uses lower gauge wire, and just as important, lots of air flow. Someone interested in trying it should do a LOT of research first on battery safety, know how many amps there pulling and the specs of their battery, and have a lot of experience wrapping coils.

Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2
 
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