L-Rider Lavatube 4.0 VS Volcano Lavatube VS Apollo VTube

[.:: Sin ::.]

Hi people,

Not sure if this topic has already been discussed in previous posts, so apologies if I've repeated.

I'm quite interested in purchasing a 'Lavatube-esq' device, but am baffled with the plentiful variety (and knock-off's) that have flooded the internet, all seeming to be more-or-less identical to each other.

So, I did a bit of research and stumbled across a post over at UKVapers from a member called Horace:

"L-Rider made the original LT, but something happened that caused Volcano and L-Rider to part company (copyright? trademarking contract?). L-Rider kept making LT clones but without the 'Lavatube' brand.

L-Rider and Young June are rival companies who both make the clones. This is why the clones are inconsistent (different boards in different bodies depending on the branding).

The Volcano Lavatube 2.0 is the next 'Lavatube' sold by Volcano ecigs. L-Rider is not the manufacturer"

Slightly less baffled now, but the question still remains...

L-Rider Lavatube 4.0 vs Volcano Lavatube (v2?) vs Apollo VTube

Any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated for making the final decision.
Sin

 

[teamscon]

l-rider and vtube look great. I have the starfire vv version and its fine. I wouldnt want a chrome one though as im sure it would look gross if my hands are sweaty etc. mine is silver instead of the chrome. Gunmetal chrome is right up my ally though, and want a gunmetal bolt.

edit: btw what has changed on the lavatube 2.0 nothing but the adaptor? If so, hope noone buys it. They should have done better things.

 

[Unforeseen]

Moved from General E-Smoking Discussion to APV Model Specific Discussion - Lavatube

 

[LeftCoastVaper]

Pete Busardo has a couple of videos comparing the Young June and L-Rider LTs. Basically the Young June outperforms the L-Rider in terms of voltage drop through the battery's charge. Uses a PWM system similar to the Provari. That's reason enough to choose it.

 

[A17kawboy]

I own both and while yes, the internals are better on the YJ personally I think the build quality is far superior on the Lambo. Lambo is made from copper rather than aluminum and the 510 connector is much more durable. Kind of a toss-up really.

 

[A17kawboy]

Says I can't edit so I'll post again.
If I had it to do over I would definitely consider the Lambo 4.0.

 

[PhreakySTS9]

l-rider and vtube look great. I have the starfire vv version and its fine. I wouldnt want a chrome one though as im sure it would look gross if my hands are sweaty etc. mine is silver instead of the chrome. Gunmetal chrome is right up my ally though, and want a gunmetal bolt.

edit: btw what has changed on the lavatube 2.0 nothing but the adaptor? If so, hope noone buys it. They should have done better things.

Actually there are many differences. First, the tube will split apart in the middle, instead of having an end cap. The fit and Finnish is a lot nicer, adding more heft. The switch was upgraded to 3 amps from 2.5 and it now reads your resistance on attics/cartos.

 

[LeftCoastVaper]

For me, the voltage drop-off on the L-Rider versions takes the comparison from toss-up to deal-breaker. Not all the L-Riders are copper; most are aluminium and they have that problematic spring-loaded center pin as well. Plus they don't work with deep reach cartos like the Stardust.

But of course this is just my totally unbiased opinion...

 

[Manete]

Features are better in JY's LT than in Raider's LT
Quality build in JY's Lavatube 2.0 is a BIG issue.
Painting in plastic buttons peel off in a week.

The 1st one I had, it had a sudden death after 2 weeks of normal use. It was peculiar to see that even though in off position, the firing button gave me enough power to vape (2.8v). This unit was replaced by vendor, but now, 1 month later, with the replacement unit I have other issues: The "+" button needs to be hard-pressed in order to work. The body's chrome layer is extremely thin, it's so thin that whenever I handle/use it, it leaves a metal/rusty metal smell in my hand. What's worse: the positive pin sometimes does not make proper contact INSIDE at I get a 0.0ohm reading which seems to be a short. Other thoughts: The top cap can not be removed, so the cup gets very dirty and cleaning it is a p.i.t.a. (and the e-liquid seems to be corrosive and it makes green oxide inside the cup which can't be removed). The thing is that 2.0 version is only available in Chrome, while JY's 1.5 was also available in Black. I own this one too and it has better quality than 2.0, although it outputs less power than it should.

Difficult perhaps, to make one decission, but now I would get the Lambo 4.0...

 

[Roary]

The e-liquid is not necessarily being corrosive that is causing the green oxide. It is the fact that you are putting two dissimilar metals together and putting an electrical charge through them. That is what is causing the green corrosion. It would happen if you had water or condensation or ejuice in there.

 

[Manete]

Thanks Roary, good to know....but why does it only happen with this device? Must be it only has a 0.000000000001mm chrome layer...

 

[Roary]

That's the biggest part of it. On my Riva 1100mah batteries it happens as well, but on my YJ LT and my SB it doesn't. It's just the composition of the metals including the coatings on them that keep it from happening. It's the same basic thing as the battery connections on your car. Overtime they corrode from one or both metals exhibiting galvanic corrosion. (If you want more information look up Galvanic Corrosion as I am long removed from my science classes but it's the same basic process.)