Leaking Clearomizer - Replaceable Atomizer and O-Ring woes - Question?

[Galactic Stone]

Hi Folks,

Quick question. I have a CE5 type of clearomizer - generic no-name that resembles an iClear16 clone. It is the type with the replaceable atomizer that is "wickless" and has the metal tube with 4 holes in it for the liquid to reach the wicking material which is hidden inside the metal tube of the atomizer assembly. It has served me well with very little leakage and it produces an acceptable amount of vapor.

My problem is this - recently (today), it has started leaking much more than previously. And I think I may know why, but I am not sure. When one unscrews the base to replace the atomizer, there is a clear rubber o-ring that fits around the base part. This o-ring seals the joint where the atomizer tube and the atomizer base meet. When I am screwing in a new replacement atomizer, how tight should it screw it down? Should it be screwed down only "hand tight" - like replacing the oil filter on a car? Or should I keep tightening it until it's tightly seated to the max? In other words, there is some play when the two parts meet - I can screw it down just until it seems to seal, or I can really crank it down hard and it mashes tightly into the rubber o-ring. Which should I do? I am thinking that the rubber o-ring may have become "smooshed" or damaged in some way and this is allowing liquid to leak through. I don't see any damage on it, but it's so small and clear that it is hard to tell.

In the near future, I plan on upgrading to an innokin iClear30, but it will be another week before I can do that. In the meantime, I have to make this current rig work without leaking tons of juice down into my battery. Cleaning up the leakage every 10 minutes is making this such a PITA that I am considering smoking some analogs until I can get the new iClear30. I don't want to, but I need my nicotine fix and this leaking clearomizer is turning me off.

Best regards,

MikeG

 

[State O' Flux]

My problem is this - recently (today), it has started leaking much more than previously. And I think I may know why, but I am not sure. When one unscrews the base to replace the atomizer, there is a clear rubber o-ring that fits around the base part. This o-ring seals the joint where the atomizer tube and the atomizer base meet. When I am screwing in a new replacement atomizer, how tight should it screw it down? Should it be screwed down only "hand tight" - like replacing the oil filter on a car? Or should I keep tightening it until it's tightly seated to the max? In other words, there is some play when the two parts meet - I can screw it down just until it seems to seal, or I can really crank it down hard and it mashes tightly into the rubber o-ring. Which should I do? I am thinking that the rubber o-ring may have become "smooshed" or damaged in some way and this is allowing liquid to leak through. I don't see any damage on it, but it's so small and clear that it is hard to tell.

I have to make this current rig work without leaking tons of juice down into my battery.
MikeG

Usually, you tighten until the components bottom out, and maybe a "snuggie" after that. If the topper is well made and the tolerances are in spec, then you'll get about a 10-15% compression of the o-ring... which should allow a substantial number of "re-uses". You've probably reached the end of that o-ring's useful life. If you can't find a replacement, then the topper is trash.

If you are desperate... you can remove the tank and drip into the atty. I can mail you some Kanger clearo o-rings (T3, T3S, EVOD)... but I can't promise they'll be the right size. Do you have a dial caliper handy to measure your o-rings? I'm sure there are folks here who will have a "collection" that might help you better than I can.

You can also wonder down to the local hobby shop, auto parts, motorcycle shop - and see if they have anything.

SOF

 

[Galactic Stone]

Hi SOF!

Thanks for the help!

I got a couple of sales today, so now I am ready to pull the trigger on that iClear30. So, the CE5 is going into my widget box and retirement.

That is really cool of you to offer some o-rings. I want to return the favor. If you PM me your mailing address, I will send you a meteorite.

Best regards,

MikeG

 

[State O' Flux]

Hi SOF!

Thanks for the help!

I got a couple of sales today, so now I am ready to pull the trigger on that iClear30. So, the CE5 is going into my widget box and retirement.

That is really cool of you to offer some o-rings. I want to return the favor. If you PM me your mailing address, I will send you a meteorite.

Best regards,

MikeG

Hey Mike,

Sorry I dropped the ball on you there. My daughter just had her first child, my first grand daughter, and there were some minor complications. It's a pain running back and forth to the hospital... especially when it's 40 miles away.

Glad to hear you found the cash to pick up that iClear. I think they may be about the most flavorful clearo/glassomizer there is. A few have had issues with leaks, but I think Innokin has that sorted. I use mostly carto tanks and RDAs, but my wife and daughter swear by their iClears. In fact, back when they were using Kanger EVODs still, I hooked them up with a few iClear 16s and they couldn't hand over their EVODs fast enough.
There's a new iClear coming out ya' know... they have metal outer shells. I think you can see the prototypes on PBusardo's site in an interview with the Innokin head honcho.

That's mighty nice of you to offer me a meteorite. I used to watch that meteorite show all the time back when it was on. I bought a meteorite faced wristwatch about 10 years ago, but it was stolen when my house was robbed 2 years ago.

Anyway... enjoy the iClear.

 

[D0lfin]

I can mail you some Kanger clearo o-rings (T3, T3S, EVOD)... but I can't promise they'll be the right size.

SOF

SOF, I've been trying to find out what size the o-rings on an evod are, specifically the one near the top of the base, above the outer threads - not the one under them. Can you help a fellow Washingtonian out with that please???

 

[State O' Flux]

SOF, I've been trying to find out what size the o-rings on an evod are, specifically the one near the top of the base, above the outer threads - not the one under them. Can you help a fellow Washingtonian out with that please???

EVOD huh? Well... let's see what we've got. The o-rings I'm measuring are used, and although they fit quite snugly, allow for a bit of stretch in diameter.

• Just to put it out there... the o-ring below the threads is a round cross-section o-ring - 1mm thick X 12mm OD (11mm ID)
  
  
• The o-ring above the threads is not a round but rather a rectangular cross-section o-ring - .70mm thick vertically X 1.60mm laterally X 11mm OD (9.4mm ID) You might be able to make a round cross section work, but I'm not going to hold my breath.

Here's a handy bit of info... on a T3S base (http://www.vaporalley.com/Kanger-T3S-Base-_p_624.html) the bottom o-ring is slightly smaller (or, maybe just less stretched) - but could be used on an EVOD.

And now for the part you'll really like... The top o-ring... is the same as that used on an EVOD.

Cheers

 

[D0lfin]

a T3S base (Kanger T3S Base) the bottom o-ring is slightly smaller (or, maybe just less stretched) - but could be used on an EVOD.

And now for the part you'll really like... The top o-ring... is the same as that used on an EVOD.

Cheers

Wow, thanks for the quick response, that's awesome! I had a t3 (but I don't think it's a t3s) lying around and tried both rings, but top one was waaay too thick and too small (ID), the bottom one was close (fit in the slot) but was too thick - tube hung up, not even close to threading. Guess the "s" makes a difference, sigh.

I lost the ring on the evod I'm trying to fix, tried cutting one out of a cart condom, but couldn't get it cut straight enough to thread without catching on one little part that's too thick. But it works, no leaking and doesn't seem to be tearing up the ring. Wonder if a pizza cutter would work better than an xacto knife for cutting a new ring?

No biggie though, I wanted to order an extra base for dry burning anyway, which won't need the rings, so can use that when I get it.

I'm surprised at how hard it was to find the size of the o rings (I won't start on "why don't they sell them by themselves, don't they know how we are???"). This is the first time in 2+ yrs I've ever had to resort to googling (didn't find anything anyway) to find ANY ecig info that wasn't already up on ECF. This place is awesome!!! You too, SOF! I couldn't find those measurements anywhere, and you were all like, BAM, here they are. Thanks again

 

[State O' Flux]

You too, SOF! I couldn't find those measurements anywhere, and you were all like, BAM, here they are. Thanks again

No problem. Measurements are what I do did for a living. You can get a decent (Chinese - what a shock right?) decimal/metric 6"/150mm digi caliper for around $30. Then next time... you can be the "measurement guy". ;-)

 

[CommaHolly]

congrats on the grand daughter

grands are the best