What kind of modifications do you think it would need? Why would it not fit? Is it those little tabs on the side?
Learning to build boxes.
- Thread starter RaptorD.Meezus
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Its 24mm and 17mm mounting depth plus the terminals. You may be able to bend the terminals to the side. I don't see why you couldn't. It is a big button at 24mm. Might could fit it in a B-box. If not maybe a P-box. Since its wider maybe it would fit in the middle between two batteries. The tabs on the side are what locks it in place but there made for a specific thickness. Like said earlier, theres always epoxy. Wouldn't be the first button I have epoxied in. You wont know till you try
you can purchase other boxes slightly bigger than a hammond and it has no lean.
Alpinetech G+ CNC Milled Aluminum Enclosure 1590G Hidden Magnet Holes-- Inches (4.06" x 2.05" x 1.06") mm (103mm x 52mm x 27mm) - - Amazon.com
Alpinetech G+ CNC Milled Aluminum Enclosure 1590G Hidden Magnet Holes-- Inches (4.06" x 2.05" x 1.06") mm (103mm x 52mm x 27mm) - - Amazon.com
I think you are going to have to epoxy the switch in, because I don't think the switch will fit with the securing nut. Maybe you can sand the lid to get it to work, but its going to be close. It also may require some modification of the battery sled. I am sure it is doable, it just is going to be a lot more work than a 12mm or even 16mm switch.
Okay. SO, an update. I'm now just waiting for my order of parts to come in so I can start putting this thing together. I decided to use a traditional switch, opting for the FDV Low-Profile switch. Got some 14GA wire, a Keystone 1048 sled, FDV V4 510, IRLB3034 MOSFET, 15A fuses, 15kΩ resistors, a Voltmeter, some magnets, some epoxy, and some other things I'm forgetting right now. I'm thinking that I'm going to just do a parallel build, instead of my initial idea of going series. Not sure why I chose this, as I honestly have no idea what the difference is, since apparently battery life is the same no matter what. The only thing I can gather is that a series build has more voltage. I think I might be too stupid for this, lol.
If you don't think you know the difference between serial and parallel batteries then build parallel. Serial gives you double the voltage and everything you know about proper coil resistance/building is wrong. It is great for competition clouds and not much else. You run the strong risk of blowing up the batteries with too low a coil (<0.3 ohms). Parallel is easy. You just double the battery life and double the max amp output. Much safer. If you build a 0.1 ohm coil you will get around 100watts with full batteries and great clouds. The potential danger just comes from installing one battery upside down. If you do that everything gets very hot very fast and you need to pull the batteries NOW!
Once you have a couple of box builds under your belt you can try a serial battery build if you feel you really need it.
Enjoy.
Once you have a couple of box builds under your belt you can try a serial battery build if you feel you really need it.
Enjoy.
Good choice. Make sure you fuse each side of the sled then connect the positives together. Be very careful soldering the fuses as they don't like the heat. I actually ruff the sled contacts and solder each fuse directly to them then solder one wire across both to the 510
What are the fuses for? Just to make sure you don't pull more than 30A or something ?
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That and installing one battery backwards. And dead shorts. And anything that could make your batteries explode. Not necessary but I use them. They are probably a good idea if you ever drink and vape.
What do you mean when you say to fuse each side of the sled together? I'm not sure I understand what it is you're suggesting at all, actually. Pictures help me learn, lol.
Solder a fuse to each pos of the battery sled. This is my favorite fuse for boxes MHP-TA15-9-77 TE Connectivity / Raychem | Mouser
Solder one to each side then you can run one wire across the other end of the fuse and to the 510
Solder one to each side then you can run one wire across the other end of the fuse and to the 510
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