Lemo build jumping ohm reading

[sketch804]

Can anyone explain why my Lemo has started to jump ohm's randomly when I fire both my devices? My coil is not touching the deck, wick is fine and not too thick, I've re-coiled this thing with something completely different (twisted coil) and I am still getting the same false readings, making my vw box's fire at random volts...no fun. I cannot for the life of me figure it out, and all was going so well for weeks now.Only thing I can think of is I dropped my box and atty a week or so ago, but no broken parts, I am about to take it all apart and clean it completely out, see if that'll help. I just don't know...but could use some assistance since this is my first rta.

Thanks!

 

[narrdarr]

what mod(s) are you using?
how are you trap your leads?
make sure your leads are tight
make sure the AFC screw is going into the deck is tight
also try backing out the 510 pin far enough so the lemo doesn't sit flush on the mod and don't crank it down super tight use just enough to make contact. (this will help test the 510 pins on the mod and the tank

 

[roxynoodle]

One other thing to check is if your positive block is straight. Even if it moved a hair it might be touching the negative.

 

[sketch804]

what mod(s) are you using?
how are you trap your leads?
make sure your leads are tight
make sure the AFC screw is going into the deck is tight
also try backing out the 510 pin far enough so the lemo doesn't sit flush on the mod and don't crank it down super tight use just enough to make contact. (this will help test the 510 pins on the mod and the tank

-MVP 2 and sigelei 30w and even checked it on ego vv3 pen. (I need to order a ohm reader this weekend)
- I trap my leads with the holes and screw them in tight but not too tight to break or smash the wire.
- how do I figure out if my 510 pin and the AFC screw are making good contact?
-now I did try to me with the 510 screw but to no avail. Cleaned it completely out but it only helped for a couple of days. Tried again yesterday, but it didn't help much this time.

 

[sketch804]

One other thing to check is if your positive block is straight. Even if it moved a hair it might be touching the negative.

How can I check this? And you mean the block on the deck?

 

[taylord22]

Take off the bottom cap and make sure the deck is tightened down. Also, make sure your 510 cap is tightening down all the way. I've had my ohms jump on me on 2 separate occasions -- the aforementioned were what was causing it.

 

[NOVA jon]

It's all about good connections with the lemo. Being that wacky on your readings and having dropped it, I would deff take the time to break it down totally and make sure no damage occurred. I also find I get more consistent reading when my legs are connected under the screw heads and not in the post holes.

What ga wire are you running??

 

[kgnvapes]

I never bothered to try to remedy the issue, but the only time I had this problem was when I trapped using the holes rather than under the screw heads. Haven't done so since, haven't had this issue since. This was my first RTA...perhaps someone with more experience could explain what might cause this to happen when using post holes but not screw heads?

 

[Torrentula81]

I had this happen once before and then again 2 days ago. I scrubbed the threads and connections but didn't change the situation. My sigelei 30w tube mod is on on it's last legs and thought it must be the reason. Today redid the coil around the screws and no problems. The onlytime I've had this issue is using the screw holes as well.

 

[roxynoodle]

How can I check this? And you mean the block on the deck?

Eyeballing it closely from a variety of angles . Yes, the positive block on the build deck. I had gotten a new eXpromizer. It makes the positive connection through a spring. I built my new atty, expecting it to meter out at 1.4 ohms or so. It was 0.07 ohms. I was sure it had to be the spring. I kept unscrewing the base and resituating it to no avail. So I'm now carefully looking at my build, and see nothing that could cause it. But, I think my positive block looks a hair off. I looked at it from several angles and sure enough it was, and grounding out on the negative block.

So first check the positive block is straight and not touching the negative block. Then hold those blocks with a pair of pliers and tighten that screw on the bottom where the afc ring is. That screw holds the positive block down and allows the current to pass through.

Make sure your post screws are good and tight.

Then make sure you screw the 510 part all the way on.

Last thing to troubleshoot is the connection to the mod. If the mod has an adjustable 510, make sure its out far enough. If it doesn't, the Lemo does. That 510 screw in the Lemo can be hard to get started. You may have to grab that bump in the inside with pliers to help you get the 510 screw started, but it really does adjust.

It has to be one of those things.

 

[Ren76]

I had this happen to me the other day, I had used the screw holes and there was a little teeny tiny piece of kanthal that had broken off my previous coil trapped in there. I had it originally ohm'd out at 1.4 but after some vape time I was getting read outs from 0.3 - 3.1, dental pick and a good cleaning fixed it up. I didn't use the holes when I rebuilt.

 

[roxynoodle]

I had this happen to me the other day, I had used the screw holes and there was a little teeny tiny piece of kanthal that had broken off my previous coil trapped in there. I had it originally ohm'd out at 1.4 but after some vape time I was getting read outs from 0.3 - 3.1, dental pick and a good cleaning fixed it up. I didn't use the holes when I rebuilt.

Another good idea. I had that happen the first time I built the Rose v2. The grub screw cut a lead. I kept recoiling, and it kept reading short. That was why.

 

[Ren76]

I don't pay attention sometimes, there was actually 2 separate pieces in there lol

 

[roxynoodle]

I don't pay attention sometimes, there was actually 2 separate pieces in there lol

Someone else had to point it out to me when I came on here asking for help . It was the third coil I had ever made, a new atty and I was just plain frustrated. He was right though. That little piece of snapped lead was in the positive post.

Ever since I've thoroughly investigated how each new atty makes the connection so I know what to troubleshoot.

 

[VaPreis]

Being the simple circuit that it is, there's only so many possible culprits.

1) The center screw through the positive block may be loose (has happened on one of mine)
2) The 510 base is not fully secured causing poor contact between the lug in the base and the center screw. (Been there, done that)
3) The 510 screw is not making good contact with the mod.
4) Or my best guess, is a loose screw securing a coil lead, or even possibly, a broken coil lead which may have been broken by the screw. Try tugging the coil leads to make certain they are actually secure.

IMO, the most secure connection for the coil leads is to wrap them around the screw instead of trapping them in the holes. Also, I don't believe the positive block shorting to the negative side is possible with the design of the insulator unless it is damaged.

 

[keepsmiling]

Mine did the same thing!