Lemo Dieing?

[Frenchfry1942]

Okay, I am looking for some input/experiences and direction/answers. I have a Lemo (original) that is about 8-10 months old. No real damage, all components present and the components are clean.

As to irregularities, the only thing is that the 510 pin in the bottom has broken its seal because I did that to expose the pin a little more for better connection with the mods. Yes, multiple VV/VW mods.

I am running 26g Kanthal from Pure Atomist with 1.0 to 1.2 ohm resistances. Yes, I have replaced the coil and I have checked the coil, visually, to make sure that there are no shorts. I have made sure the screws are tight, too. Ther positive post at the base of the deck, I have had it snug like it comes and I have loosened it to see if that is a circut issue.

Okay, after I fill it, check the AF and pin, I put it on a mod. It works fine for a while but then the ohms start jumping. I suck all the juice out and check things and it seems fine.

I am just wanting if anyone has had the issue or has an idea for me to check.

Thanks all

 

[thomas l]

my drop did that i unscrewed the 510 some and its been working abt month i guess

 

[Frenchfry1942]

I have done that. Actually, since the pin tightens clockwise and the Lemo mounts the MOD in a clock-wise turning direction, when the Lemo gets close to "tight", the pin turns also. But, because I loosen the pin, it doesn't tighten to the point of non-connection.

 

[VaPreis]

Have you checked to see if the center air screw is fully tightened to the positive block on the deck? I found that loose on one of mine once. It's really the only thing you didn't mention.......

 

[Frenchfry1942]

Yep, tried it tight and tried it loose. Was checking to see if it was not connecting to the bottom plate. Last night I realized that I have been using the same 26g Kanthal. But, then realized that I am using that in my other toppers.

I don't think Lemo's have clones so that isn't it. All mine were $30ish from reputeable stores. Maybe just a bad egg.

Thanks though for thinking on it.

 

[VaPreis]

Do you trap your leads in the holes?

I have read of others having similar issues that later found a previously broken piece of kanthal left in the holes.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

Yep, and cut the leads at the end of the holes rather than twisting and them breaking at the point of the screw. Yep, I did run a piece of wire through.

I think I am just going to call Ghosthunters. I'll post if it gets sorted.

Thanks all

 

[c3scott]

I'm about ready to give up on my lemo. 510 adjustments burnt taste stupid refill screw etc. Dripping a magma clone never a burnt hit on my mech mod. Burnt hits on my istick with lemo. Maybe mess with my build or add it to my junk pile.

 

[Msand]

I have a Lemo drop, but is the same. The only time i have seen the resistance jumping all over the place is from the 510 pin backing up into the bottom section of the tank. What i do to fix it every time. Is to screw the bottom section on to the tank as hard as i can. This pushes the pin out. if it isn't enough. i would use my finger nail to unscrew it so it just sticks out of the bottom. Then just a hair extra, since i knew it was going to screw it's self back in. hope this help. sounds like you already tried it.

 

[umanbean]

The 510 screw in the Lemo base holds down the little round "platform" inside that makes contact with the air screw. At first glance, that inner piece looks like it's machined into the base, but it's not (couldn't be, it's positive).

So you can't run the Lemo with the 510 screw loose, 'cause then the inner contact point is loose too... causing fluctuations in resistance.

If you take the 510 screw completely out, and take the inner contact out (it has a plastic washer on bottom, careful not to lose anything), you'll see a plastic insulator inside the hole in the base. That insulator "floats" up and down, and has a lip that "stops" the 510 screw at a certain point when you snug it down. If you need the 510 pin to stick out past flush, you'll have to figure out a good way to push the insulator out a little. I used a flat point nail-set punch the right size (~5.5-5.8mm), so my tool wouldn't mess up the insulator.

 

[b.m.]

Another easy fix to bring the screw out a bit and still keep it tight,is to take out the screw and put a small o-ring in,then put the screw back in and snug it down.Works perfectly,and only takes about 20 seconds to do.