alright, i diditn know my battery might have been weak or something, I kind of suspected I might have needed an ohm meter though.
Little vapor production no matter what I do
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Nope not even trying to get into that right now. here was the build I tried to mimic and alter. Im thinking its the battery, maybe my battery is weak since its a 3.7 or something.
Your battery isn't weak, it is the wrong chemistry (kind, type, unsuitable) to use for vaping, it is dangerous.
When an ICR battery vents it is a very rapid unstoppable process, if it is enclosed in a metal tube it can become shrapnel.
Bottom line, there are no safe builds using a mechanical and an ICR battery, if you don't know the very basics of battery safety, ohms law and have the neseccary equipment to test battery voltage check for shorts and measure resistance you are playing with fire.
Whoever told you you'd be okay using an ICR battery was at least an idiot. Even worse saying you didn't need an accurate way of measuring battery voltage & resistance.
All 3.7 batteries we use should charge to 4.2v.
An IMR / hybrid battery with a CDR that is suffeciant for the ohm ranges you intend to use and a way to measure resistance & voltage and check for shorts is not optional if you want to vape with any semi reasonable degree of safety.
Not trying to be rude or sound harsh.
Im gonna guess its your battery..... not enuf amps supplied... get an IMR hi drain. use the ICR in a flashlight
Too true, also check the screws on the posts in the RDA, make sure there is not short out or all contacts are good.
AW and MNKE are good batteries, both are IMR. With the same resistance within the safe operating range for ICR, IMR gives a better vapour somehow.
dude, you have got to vape safe! You really should get an ohm reader or at least use a regulated device that can read the ohms on your build.
Lets put it this way, i think 28 guage kanthal at 8 wraps would probably be getting you somewhere in the region of 0.8ohms for a single coil build wrapped on a 2.5mm drill bit. Add another coil and it will halve the resistance to 0.4ohm. (4 wraps would be even lower)
0.8 is sub-ohm vaping btw, which can be dangerous if you aren't testing your coils and using the best batteries you can get.
It sounds like your battery is not suitable for sub-ohm vaping! it has a maximum discharge of only 10 amps. Most people who are sub ohm vaping will use very high drain batteries like the Sony VTC4 which is 30amps, and the efest 35amp batteries.
ICR batteries aren't good for vaping with. They are considered a much less safe and less stable chemistry. Fine for a torch though. Go for something IMR or hybrid
Take a look at this link for info Vaping Batteries - The Good, Bad, and the Ugly - Wood Creek Vapory
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Thank you so much for the information, ive learned something from it. I will get an ohm meter and a better battery. One question though, does the volts matter? I have a 3.7 battery so will a higher volt battery improve things or should i just stay with 3.7?
It would help if you read all the responses.
3.7 is the nominal voltage of the batteries we use, when fully charged they should be 4.2v. If you had a way to test battery voltage you would know it is 4.2v fully charged, testing the battery periodicaly while you vape would prevent you from over discharging the battery shortening its life or possibly ruining it.
4.2v is the number you should use in figuring battery amp drain, just to be safe.
You need a better battery for safety. The batteries you are using now could literally explode if your rda build is not right, and, without an ohms meter, you won't know if your rda is built well. So please, please get new batteries, safe imr ones.
You must have an ohms meter to know what your resistance is. Otherwise, you will be unable to catch a short, figure out if your build is correct. You'll be building blind. I'd say to stick with a single coil in the beginning, and try building around .9-1.2 ohm resistance. There are, literally, hundreds of videos on youtube giving instructions on building coils. They're really useful.
I don't have a Lotus. Any RDA, with adjusted airflow, should give you clouds if properly built.
The person who told you that you don't need an ohms meter might have assumed that you are using a regulated mod. Most of those will show the resistance, will let you know if there is something off with the build, will let you know if you need to recharge the battery, etc. A mech mod will do none of those things, which is why you MUST have a meter.
btw, a digital multimeter, available at most hardware stores, even Walmart, will do the same thing as an ohms meter. It will also measure your battery, so you know when it's time to switch to a fresh battery. I'd strongly suggest getting one of those, along with an ohms meter.
The battery will come off the charger around 4.2 volts. As you use it, it'll go down. 3.7 is good. I generally switch around 3.5-3.6. Your mech mod won't tell you when to stop using the battery; you need to go by feel (the vape will feel weaker) and you need to measure, especially in the beginning, when you're not familiar with the way the whole thing feels. If you let the battery go too low, you might damage it.
You do have a decent charger, right? You need one of those, too, to keep the battery happy.
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Ohhhhh I see, thank you, i didnt even know you can test batteries, i am most certainly going to purchase an ohm meter thingy now =) Thanks to everyone btw for replying. I figured out what the problem was, my battery is pretty much a dud now, I think I burned it out with my crappy builds. I tested it out on the atty it came with and it barely even works on that now.
...and don't fret over it if you never see that 4.2 after a fresh charge. I have 3 AW's that never show above 4.1.
One of the problems I had when starting out, was knowing whether the coil or power source was deficient.
To settle the argument, I rigged some dummy loads for a PC PSU so I could run it in isolation from a PC.
The 3.3V output is slightly lower than the 3.6V (nominal) from a lithium cell, but all except the highest capacity cells sag a bit under load - the PC PSU rail doesn't.
In the majority of cases the stable 3.3V will put more voltage across the coil than most batteries - if you can't get a good cloud from that, look to the coil.
here are some charts that list batteries, and what build they will safely handle:
Battery mAh & C Rating = amp Calculator
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B423OSOvUSNvZmdxNE9FdjBla3c/edit
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AhCCsGn6F0QLdDJxNzV2c0dSc01mUkl6RXNnM2o2R1E&pli=1#gid=0
This has a bunch of calculators for ohms law, coil wrapping, etc.
Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
This is on coil wrapping:
Coil Toy - Online calculator for e-cigarette resistance coil building
Do a search on the Samsungs you're interested on this forum. People like them, and yes, they should get you sub ohm. Do respect the limits of the battery, and do not go below .7-.9 when you're just starting out
Battery mAh & C Rating = amp Calculator
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B423OSOvUSNvZmdxNE9FdjBla3c/edit
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AhCCsGn6F0QLdDJxNzV2c0dSc01mUkl6RXNnM2o2R1E&pli=1#gid=0
This has a bunch of calculators for ohms law, coil wrapping, etc.
Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
This is on coil wrapping:
Coil Toy - Online calculator for e-cigarette resistance coil building
Do a search on the Samsungs you're interested on this forum. People like them, and yes, they should get you sub ohm. Do respect the limits of the battery, and do not go below .7-.9 when you're just starting out
here are some charts that list batteries, and what build they will safely handle:
Battery mAh & C Rating = amp Calculator
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B423OSOvUSNvZmdxNE9FdjBla3c/edit
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AhCCsGn6F0QLdDJxNzV2c0dSc01mUkl6RXNnM2o2R1E&pli=1#gid=0
This has a bunch of calculators for ohms law, coil wrapping, etc.
Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
This is on coil wrapping:
Coil Toy - Online calculator for e-cigarette resistance coil building
Do a search on the Samsungs you're interested on this forum. People like them, and yes, they should get you sub ohm. Do respect the limits of the battery, and do not go below .7-.9 when you're just starting out
The batteries certainly have their limits - with my rewinds I usually aim for around 1.2 - 1.4 Ohms, but sometimes I misjudge it and end up with a sub-Ohm coil.
Most of the batteries I have are at least 2.2Ah and cope OK, but I bought a KIK with a 650mAh battery for an emergency spare - with a sub-Ohm coil, the terminal voltage collapses after about a dozen puffs.
yes. the important parts to check if a battery is good enough is:
1. Check the chemistry (use IMR)
2. The max. continuous discharging current - That samsung battery btw is 20amps)
3. the mAh - this is the measurement for the life capacity of the battery
So, this samsung battery will be fine for most sub-ohm setups, BUT, it has limits!
due to it only being 20amp max continuous discharge.
So if we use ohms law, the freshly charged samsung battery will be at about 4.2V
With a 20amp max discharge, to stay safe, you need to have a build above 0.21ohms!
but to be honest, i really wouldn't push it.
With this battery i wouldnt risk building anything below 0.4
This will effectively give you around 44 watts on a mech, and only be using 10.5 amps. much safer, and still massive clouds! (so long as its a good build lol)
Alright guys, thanks so much for the replies, I bought my new IMR high drain battery, its capable of sub ohm builds, I have a new dual coil setup that was done for me by the shop as well, im getting more vapor than I did before but I thought a 0.7 ohm build (measured with my multimeter) would produce a little more vapor.
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