Lizard friendly penstyle attys?

[VaporMadness]

I have yet to explore the universe of penstyle attys but am hankering to do so. I'm wondering which style of attys work well with the 801 adapter that comes with the Chamleon?

I know the WW is real fond of the 302, so I guess that one makes a good electrical connection (is that right?). I'm also curious about the 201 because I've read that you get monster TH with that atty. I think those are the two penstyles I'm most interested in trying, but before I do that, I just want to make sure that they'll work with the Chameleon.

Thnx

 

[Switched]

Who or what is WW?

You also did not specify voltages, which is an important factor.

To some the best 801s our there is the BE112s. Isaac has a penchant for SLBs.

Personally I do not like the 302. Mind you this is entirely subjective. I only have one so I can't really compare it against anything. I do have JoyE 801s that perform better IMHO. Because of my past experience, the 302 has been dismissed as an atty I want to carry.

The SLB 801s once again I cannot compare them to anything as well. I ordered some XHV 801s when I ordered my lizard, they run cooler than my stock JoyE 801s at HV, which is to be expected. At the same time, the XHV runs cooler at 3.7V, which is also to be expected.

In my experience (with 510s) the draw is a little tighter on the SLBs (not as "airy"), mind you this is not an issue when used at higher voltages e.g 5V or better, matching the resistance to the voltage is key though. That being said I believe the durability of the SLB to be slightly better. OTOH it also depends on the liquid vaped in both viscosity and flavour.

I know I didn't quite answer your question, because it is not an easy one to answer, as everything is subjective (similar to Goldielocks ). Hopefully I offered some insight to your question though.

 

[Iken]

I'd say you did Switch, you pretty much nailed all the factors involved in the performance and also the brands of the atomizer's themselves. I'm sure Mr. Madness will perfectly understand your post through and through. I have to differ on one instance though.
I turned on WW (WitchWay) to the 302. Personally speaking, I believe that the Joye-302's quality build is better than the Dse801 on 3.7V. I noticed in findings that running both types of standard atoms on 6v will expedite the life the of the atomizer, but the 302 will live just a bit longer as it lasts even longer on 3.7V. The Joy 302 has a lowered resistance in comparison to the Dse series. Even though the Dse 801 is Saliebao's invention, I feel I had significant experiences between the two in terms of life expectancy and feel. Most of it comes down to the air-flow, the 302's 2-hole design (can be seen from bottom end of atomizer) was just a brilliant idea. Whereas the 801's 4-hole system proved to me to be very airy and more of an annoyance then a good vape.

The subject on BE-112 has been in debate for more than a year. ie: Vaprlife. The resistance is lowered as is the quality, hence the faster and harder burn that it gives. These have been notorious for dying, especially on 5+ volts, but from the popularity they been gaining due to their signature trait has influenced Becci to keep the manufacturing the same, because when they work, they do their job nicely, it's more of a "How long will it last" factor. With our Xhv's 901 and 801 alike, they are different from all atomizers on the market because they are being built specifically for us from research. If you have any of our Xhv's on hand, take a look at the bottom end, we removed both 2-hole and 4-hole designs and replaced them with unseen small notches. to perfect the airflow.

In Short Mr Madness, Be-112 on lower voltage will burn as if were next to an Lr Atom, just a few notches up. I wouldn't recommend it for HV. but will for 3.7V

The Dse-801 standard, I'd recommend on hv, but not on 3.7V.

The Joye-302 would be a good fit for 3.7 and 6v.

If your looking for 2x 3.7V Xhv use, I still stand by solidly on the Xhv 5.2Ω 801.

When it all comes down to it my friend. It's all going to based on Your preference. Just like the age old question of "Whats the perfect Atomizer" There's just too many factors involved now. It's all trial and error, the best we can do is give you our opinions. Switcher is still dead on with his words.

 

[VaporMadness]

Thnx for the responses, I appreciate the info about the characteristics of the differenent attys. I think I have to add the BE-112 to my list of penstyle attys I'm hankering to try with my 3.7v gear (and occasional 5v on the passthru). I didn't know that it ran 'hot'.

My original question was actually less about which atty is best for vaping (very subjective) and more about which attys can be screwed onto the Chameleon's 801 adapter such that the electrical connection is good and airflow isn't blocked.

For example, I've read about the need for a 'staple mod' in some cases to get electrical connectivity (placing a bit of metal between an adapter and atty because contact points don't meet properly). There's no way I want to be mucking with bits of metal to tweek things like that (can you say short-circuit).

Maybe a better way to ask my original question would be are there any 801 thread compatible penstyle attys that are known to not function properly on the Chameleon's 801 adapter?

 

[Switched]

Ah, now that's an easy question My 302, my JoyE 801s and SLbs from Ikenvape all work, have never tried the BE112 so I can pronounce myself there.

It is also my understanding that the tight draw also stems from mods who employ drip catchers, the Chameleon does not have one of those. There is also clearance left after the atty is screwed on in comparison to some devices, hence why the need of the staple mod. I'm sure I saac will correct me if I am wrong

 

[Iken]

I'm with Switch on this one too Mr Madness. I tried a stock 801, Xhv 801 and 302 but not the BE-112. However we do have them coming in 2.0Ω editions. Fingers crossed on them! We know 1.5 is just too darn low, so with the same wiring technique exhibited with HV lines and the resistance bumped up to 1.8-2.0, logically we should have it nailed. No worries, I won't let you buy something that I think is worthless, so upon arrival testing will be performed and then I'll fill you guys in.

 

[Iken]

A staple mod? Wedging in extra metal? I must of missed this somewhere! Is this in regards to Chameleon? I do know that there is about a 2-3mm of clearance on the adapters.

 

[Switched]

A staple mod? Wedging in extra metal? I must of missed this somewhere! Is this in regards to Chameleon? I do know that there is about a 2-3mm of clearance on the adapters.

No Isaac, relax my friend . He meant it is with some of the other mods so that the centre post of the atty contacts the centre post on the battery adapter. I have had to use a similar method with some low quality expensive attys I had purchased, where I used a little rolled up tinfoil to bridge the gap.

 

[VaporMadness]

I'm with Switch on this one too Mr Madness. I tried a stock 801, Xhv 801 and 302 but not the BE-112. However we do have them coming in 2.0Ω editions. Fingers crossed on them! We know 1.5 is just too darn low, so with the same wiring technique exhibited with HV lines and the resistance bumped up to 1.8-2.0, logically we should have it nailed. No worries, I won't let you buy something that I think is worthless, so upon arrival testing will be performed and then I'll fill you guys in.

I'll be keeping an eye out for the 2ohm attys. That should really give the high drain 16340 LiMNs a good workout.

A staple mod? Wedging in extra metal? I must of missed this somewhere! Is this in regards to Chameleon? I do know that there is about a 2-3mm of clearance on the adapters.

I didn't hear 'bout that with regard to the Chameleon in particular. Just in general I've read that the diverse collection of attys that use 801 threading are somewhat different connector wise despite the same thread size and diameter. Like Switched having to use a bit of tinfoil to close a gap between the center contacts. That seems like a dicey maneuver that could easily go awry. I just don't want to go there. So rather than get a brand of penstyle atty that is known to be troublesome in that way with the Chameleon... thought I'd ask around.

Sounds like none are known to not work but also haven't heard that the BE112 and M201 are known to work. So I guess there's only one way to find out

 

[WitchWay]

Ok I'll jump in now Sorry been on the run most of the weekend. I've tried everything but a 201 on the Chameleon. Might have to give one a try sometime though. The 801 no problem what so ever. I just don't like the draw on the 801s. I have silver BE112s and I like them, but my absolute favorite is the 302. The BE112s have more air draw than a 801, but less than the 302s. I like the loose, lots of air draw of the 302s. Now on the 302s you have to be very careful to make sure the pin is pushed high on the Chameleon or you will not have a complete connection and will burn out the attys. The 302s do not screw down as far as the 801s. The BE112s also need it high but not as high as the 302s. Once I got the pin height where it needed to be I haven't had a problem since. I did not have luck at all with the staple mod and the Chameleon and do not recommend it. When the pin is pushed high it does tend to spin when you put the atty on because it is not jammed down tight against the pin on the button section, so to make it tighter hubby did use electrical super glue and glued a very small copper disk to the bottom of the pin. Now it doesn't spin, the pin stays pushed up high and everything is tight. I do not recommend this unless you are sure of what you are doing as if that disk does get out of place it could cause a problem. Just don't tell Isaac I did this LOL

I think I am one of the few people that really loves the 302 attys. Isaac suggested them to me and that is all I will use on the Chameleon now. Oh I do only vape at 3.7v so do not know about using them with the PT or higher voltage.

I do have 3 Silver BE112s sitting here and will use them if I have to, but as long as I have a 302 that works, that is what I will use.

That's my experience and less than 2 cents worth

 

[Switched]

Ummmmmmm, you have adjustable pins on your adapters? I don't.

VM,

My little alumifoil ball is tiny just enough to close the gap. I centre it on the hole of the atty and screw on the device. When compressed, the sides never come into contact with the neg pole of the circuit. I hope that helps. BTW that was with a batch of 510 JoyE attys.

... and no I would not recommend this method or any other "jury riging" method to anyone that may not know what they are doing.

You might want to shoot GrimmGreen a PM he uses the BE112 and I believe he has on the Chameleon.

 

[WitchWay]

Ummmmmmm, you have adjustable pins on your adapters? I don't.

Yeah you do LOL believe it or not. However it is not easy to move them, but they do move. You can even take the pin completely out of the connecter, if you ever need to clean it. Hubby really had to work to get it to move. Isaac can tell you better than I can how to get them out or to adjust them.

Hubby took mine apart last week so I could clean it and polish the brass. I used an electric toothbrush and toothpaste and it came out shiny and new looking.

 

[VaporMadness]

Thanx WW, that's the type of info I was looking for.

Sounds like the 302 and the BE112 can be a little troublesome in this department, but it also sounds like so long as the center pin is fully pushed up, they do make contact. Unless... did you're husband shave down the plastic insulator between the bottom of the center pin and the main body of the adapter such that the pin stands just a little higher in there?

Neat trick to extend the length of the pin a little on the bottom side. My 901 adapter is a little loose, it can spin just a bit with the top cap fully screwed on. If/when that ever becomes a problem, your neat trick may come in handy.

I don't think you're alone in your appreciation of the 302. I've seen other posters that swear by it too.

Ok I'll jump in now Sorry been on the run most of the weekend. I've tried everything but a 201 on the Chameleon. Might have to give one a try sometime though. The 801 no problem what so ever. I just don't like the draw on the 801s. I have silver BE112s and I like them, but my absolute favorite is the 302. The BE112s have more air draw than a 801, but less than the 302s. I like the loose, lots of air draw of the 302s. Now on the 302s you have to be very careful to make sure the pin is pushed high on the Chameleon or you will not have a complete connection and will burn out the attys. The 302s do not screw down as far as the 801s. The BE112s also need it high but not as high as the 302s. Once I got the pin height where it needed to be I haven't had a problem since. I did not have luck at all with the staple mod and the Chameleon and do not recommend it. When the pin is pushed high it does tend to spin when you put the atty on because it is not jammed down tight against the pin on the button section, so to make it tighter hubby did use electrical super glue and glued a very small copper disk to the bottom of the pin. Now it doesn't spin, the pin stays pushed up high and everything is tight. I do not recommend this unless you are sure of what you are doing as if that disk does get out of place it could cause a problem. Just don't tell Isaac I did this LOL

I think I am one of the few people that really loves the 302 attys. Isaac suggested them to me and that is all I will use on the Chameleon now. Oh I do only vape at 3.7v so do not know about using them with the PT or higher voltage.

I do have 3 Silver BE112s sitting here and will use them if I have to, but as long as I have a 302 that works, that is what I will use.

That's my experience and less than 2 cents worth

 

[WitchWay]

The insulator and the pin are both pushed up as far as they will go in the body of the adapter. Isaac had suggested shaving down the insulator but hubby was afraid of making it uneven and causing the pin to sit crooked, so he just pushed both up as far as they would go and it was enough to get the right height. When he did the extention on the pin, he went to ACE and in a box of copper washers, on the bottom of the box there are some of the center punch outs, from where they punch the hole in the washer. He got some and asked the guy if he could have them. They just throw those out anyway. He got a couple different ones before he got one that would work right. Most were too thick and the top cap on the Chameleon wouldn't screw all the way on then. It was just a tiny gap but it bugged me so he finally found one that was thin enough to do the job right. Ok VM this isn't for you, but I'm going to state this for the general public... This is an advanced modification and should only be done by someone that understands what they are doing. And should only be done on the bottom of the pin.

On your 901 adapter you might just have to push the pin down a hair. It should still make contact with the atty and won't spin anymore. Only move it a hair. The only one I've had to extend is the 801, but only when using the 302 attys. My 901 and 510 adapters both had to be adjusted but work great once hubby got the pins set right.

He's very handy so I'm extremely lucky. I'd be lost if I didn't have him to fix everything for me

 

[Switched]

Ah ha, now I am following you WW. I thought there was something special like the 510 to 901/KR808 adapters with the screwdriver slot.

808/901 adapters a bit of good info for no air flow - E-Cigarette Forum

I have a small gap, probably around 0.006-0.008"between my top cap and switch. None of my adapters spin freely and all posts are in their proper positions, as far as I am concerned. The only adapter I had problems with as stated in my review was the 801, because it wasn't seated properly originally. After that all attys 801 and otherwise work fine.