Loads of dry hits

[AndriaD]

OK, so when you lower the temperature until you get an unsatisfying vape there is still burnt flavor but less of it, and you think the coil is reasonably clean.

IMO that head is toast unless you clean it out and re-wick it if that's possible to do with these heads. It's either not as clean as you think it is or you've burnt the wick in it and the wick is giving you that off flavor now.

With your nickel coiled head, 'no atomizer found' probably indicates the resistance is too low. What does it read on your ohms tester? Andria might be able to help more with this too since she has one of these mods.

Either way, you need to buy more heads because they only last so long until they get gunked. They can also short though that doesn't happen often, but I don't know these heads.

Well, I don't know anything about nickel, or about "replacement coils," since I build my own. No amount of awfulness from commercially-made coils surprises me though, and that's why I started building my own -- I refuse to pay good money for a coil that's had zero QC applied to its manufacture -- I am my own QC. You know what "they" say -- if you want something done right...

Andria

 

[Completely Average]

I'm shocked that no one has bothered to say that the whole point of temperature control is to prevent burnt hits. If you're getting burnt hits AT ALL then your mod is almost certainly broken.

Temperature control would reduce wattage until the mod shut off entirely before it would burn the wick or burn the juice. If the wick wasn't working and was dry the mod wouldn't fire, it would shut off because the temperature was too high. You should be able to vape a tank until it's dry without getting a single dry or burnt hit, the worst that would happen is the vape would get weaker and weaker until the mod simply stopped firing and gave you a warning. The ONLY way you could get a burnt hit, much less get consistent burnt hits while in temperature control is if your temperature control simply isn't working.

Do this simple test. Fire the mod while looking at the display. Don't try to puff on it, simply watch the display and fire the mod. If it fires at 50W and stays at 50W then the temperature control is NOT working.

 

[AndriaD]

I'm shocked that no one has bothered to say that the whole point of temperature control is to prevent burnt hits. If you're getting burnt hits AT ALL then your mod is almost certainly broken.

Temperature control would reduce wattage until the mod shut off entirely before it would burn the wick or burn the juice. If the wick wasn't working and was dry the mod wouldn't fire, it would shut off because the temperature was too high. You should be able to vape a tank until it's dry without getting a single dry or burnt hit, the worst that would happen is the vape would get weaker and weaker until the mod simply stopped firing and gave you a warning. The ONLY way you could get a burnt hit, much less get consistent burnt hits while in temperature control is if your temperature control simply isn't working.

There's a thing on the Evic, where you "lock" the resistance, when the coil is at room temp; if it somehow gets set when the coil is warmer than room temp, then it will use that higher figure as its "baseline" in calculating temps, so it could throw it off.

Andria

 

[Completely Average]

There's a thing on the Evic, where you "lock" the resistance, when the coil is at room temp; if it somehow gets set when the coil is warmer than room temp, then it will use that higher figure as its "baseline" in calculating temps, so it could throw it off.

Andria

It shouldn't throw it off enough to be burning wicks and juice. And that problem should be very obvious by simply looking at the resistance on the display. If the resistance is locked it's going to show you what it's locked at. If the resistance is several ohm off then it's pretty obvious what the problem is.

This is a problem that should be easy to troubleshoot by simply looking at the display. If the resistance is wrong you'll see it. If it's in power mode rather than the temperature control mode you'll see it. If it's set for nickel coils rather than the titanium coils you'll see it.

If everything looks right and it's giving burnt hits then the mod is broken. It should NEVER give burnt hits in temperature control mode. I don't care how gunked up it is, it shouldn't be possible. You should be able to put a dry cotton wick in a coil and fire it without the wick burning.

 

[bingotj1]

So I got the nickel coil to work and I am still getting the burnt taste on 400+ temp

 

[Ryedan]

So I got the nickel coil to work and I am still getting the burnt taste on 400+ temp

Are you sure you're in TP mode? @AndriaD, how do you know with this mod that the TP is working or not? With my DNA40's the readout changes and I can see the watts being reduced when TP kicks in. I can also tell if it's kicked me out of TP mode and is running to the watts set by what the readout tells me.

 

[Ryedan]

It shouldn't throw it off enough to be burning wicks and juice. And that problem should be very obvious by simply looking at the resistance on the display. If the resistance is locked it's going to show you what it's locked at. If the resistance is several ohm off then it's pretty obvious what the problem is.

This is a problem that should be easy to troubleshoot by simply looking at the display. If the resistance is wrong you'll see it. If it's in power mode rather than the temperature control mode you'll see it. If it's set for nickel coils rather than the titanium coils you'll see it.

If everything looks right and it's giving burnt hits then the mod is broken. It should NEVER give burnt hits in temperature control mode. I don't care how gunked up it is, it shouldn't be possible. You should be able to put a dry cotton wick in a coil and fire it without the wick burning.

Thanks, that answers the question I had on how this mod works

A TP mod can most certainly burn juice. I've done it. All you have to do is get the juice hot enough with the build you're using. If you've set 400 deg F you should be safe, however it was set to 470 in the beginning I believe.

This stuff isn't completely plug and play yet, as with most things in vaping.

 

[Completely Average]

Are you sure you're in TP mode? @AndriaD, how do you know with this mod that the TP is working or not? With my DNA40's the readout changes and I can see the watts being reduced when TP kicks in. I can also tell if it's kicked me out of TP mode and is running to the watts set by what the readout tells me.

the Evic VT does something similar.

If it's in Power mode it will read in Power on the top line of the display instead of Temp.
If it's in Nickel mode it will say "Temp Ni" on the top line.
If it's in Titanium mode it will say "Temp Ti" on the top line.
If the atomizer resistance is locked there should be a little Lock symbol next to the word "Atomizer"

If it's in temperature control mode then you should see both the current temperature and see the wattage being adjusted as it fires.

 

[Ryedan]

the Evic VT does something similar.

If it's in Power mode it will read in Power on the top line of the display instead of Temp.
If it's in Nickel mode it will say "Temp Ni" on the top line.
If it's in Titanium mode it will say "Temp Ti" on the top line.
If the atomizer resistance is locked there should be a little Lock symbol next to the word "Atomizer"

If it's in temperature control mode then you should see both the current temperature and see the wattage being adjusted as it fires.

More great info Completely Average

 

[Completely Average]

A TP mod can most certainly burn juice. I've done it. All you have to do is get the juice hot enough with the build you're using. If you've set 400 deg F you should be safe, however it was set to 470 in the beginning I believe.

470F shouldn't be any problem. A Kanthal coil will run hotter than that. I can even vape my low airflow Nautilus at 475F with it's temperature sensing coils without a problem other than the chimney heats up more than I like. I run it at 460F with a 60VG/40PG juice.

If he had the temps set up at like 550-600F I could see the temperature setting being a problem, but he's almost certainly using a subohm setup of some sort with a LOT better airflow than my Nautilus, 470F should NOT be giving burnt hits.

 

[AndriaD]

Are you sure you're in TP mode? @AndriaD, how do you know with this mod that the TP is working or not? With my DNA40's the readout changes and I can see the watts being reduced when TP kicks in. I can also tell if it's kicked me out of TP mode and is running to the watts set by what the readout tells me.

yeah, when it's in vw mode, the set wattage is the top line... when it's in either TC mode, the temp settng is the top line. Normally I fire with my thumb so I can't really tell what it does when I fire, so today I turned it around and watched it in a mirror; it fluctuates, just under the set temp -- it's set for 380F, and it was showing 375, 378, then the little msg, back to 378... like that.

Andria

 

[Ryedan]

So I got the nickel coil to work and I am still getting the burnt taste on 400+ temp

Just got back from dinner and taking my dog for a walk. Read the posts since your last one when you get back and see if anything in them helps.

I also just had a look in the TC sub-forum and found a big thread on this mod there. Try posting there, if anyone can help you they can