Congratulations Zook and thanks for sending me to ebay. Got the last two, not my choice of color, but I have plans for it anyway. 
Esoterica, welcome back! I didn't know the thread in the LCUSA forum was deleted. Wow. Makes me a bit sad, but here we are now, and you found us!
It was more than my pleasure to start this thread. We have such an incredibly wonderful NLV "village/family" here, and it's important..... to all of us.
Do stop by often, eh? Ya never know what wackiness is going to strike.
Hi FnMag (you simply have no idea how I hear that name in my head....)...
OMGoodness, as much as I'd love to answer your question, I think most of my answer would be made up. I do think perhaps if you are subohming, you are winding your own coils, yes? If so, you are most likely using a wire that is by far a larger gauge than a stock head from an iClear. I have a feeling it's less about wicking that it is about surface area of the coil.
I do hope retird and Kemo jump in, and provide the technical information that I can only pretend to profess.
The Aspire "thingy" is the somewhat newish Aspire tanks and coils. They're BDC (bottom dual coils) and the latest rage in clearos. Their coil heads are designed in a different way than what we've known previously (with Kangers and the lot), and the public response to them has been outstanding. I like them a lot, and found they're a great addition to the arsenal, but in no way are they replacements for the steady, consistent, warm, full vape of a karto tank.
Here are a couple of links for you.
Aspire ET-S BDC - Glassomizer
https://www.google.com/search?q=asp...Ly7AaTmYDABg&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAw&biw=1370&bih=618
Are you having any prob with ordering Bounty Hunter or Line Rider? I see they are both fully in stock.
So I have a question regarding VV/VW mods.. I have a VTR, I like it even though it's big (smaller than my Bogger box) and heavy.. But anytime I run the iClears 30s on it I rarely go above 4.3 or 4.4v (8-8.5w) with the replacement heads I have (average 2.1 or 2.2Ohms). However, when using my BBox, sub Ohmed, I know I'm over 15w!! Is it that the iClears can't keep up with their wicking ?
Whats the "aspire thingy"? I can't find anything that looks like it anywhere.
to get back on topic, I'm outta Bounty Hunter and getting low on Line Rider![]()
Just want to say today is my 2 year vapeversary. I owe a giant debt of gratitude to Mr. Smooth and the whole NLV crew here for keeping me on track. I am 100% healthier than I was 2 years ago. :cheers:![]()

i think its a combination of coil and wick. clearos cant handle much higher than 8 or so watts in my experience. the wick is tiny on most clearos and dries out fairly quickly. even with the reservoir of juice, the wick still needs a "breather" period in between vapes, especially at higher wattages.
the coil plays a role as well but in your case i think its more of the wick. silica wick is great at handling heat, but at transferring liquid- not so much. cotton is more absorbent and can saturate better than silica. but as we know, it also burns if it does go dry, say from getting choked on the clearo's channels or just by itself by there being too much of it in the coil.
edit for suggestion: i would try a 1/16" ID micro coil with a slender cotton wick for the clearo head. vertical coils also work decently in clearos. ECF member BigScreenD has a great vertical coil rebuild post. basically, you mount a coil vertically in the head assembly, then stuff cotton around it rather than through it. your air passes through the coil and is fed liquid from the outside rather than inside (similar concept to cartos).
edit #2: heres the Big Screen D vertical clearo rebuild:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-micro-coil-build-aro-evod-protank-heads.html
Congrats, Zooker!
and likewise on the Dr Smooth & Village comments!
![]()
that just cracked me up, thanks Kemo! Oh and thanks for the link to the vertical coil rebuild thing, I'm going to check that out, I'd heard of that build referred to recently, but had no idea what it meant!LOL!!that just cracked me up, thanks Kemo! Oh and thanks for the link to the vertical coil rebuild thing, I'm going to check that out, I'd heard of that build referred to recently, but had no idea what it meant!
I've rebuilt an evod coil exactly one time~~so what is the positive pin(?) there are no pins in there, just the coil wires, one going down through the inside of of the rubber/insulator/thingy, and one on outside, is it still the same, just with the coil going vertical?



I'm only 15 pages into the thread, but my guess is MORE cotton, to get rid of the gurgles. I was in on the original Micro Coil thread for a long time, but it's gotten so long I quit reading it...
well poo.
Almost zero airflow on a knock off protank I and nothing but a mouth full of jooze![]()
so what is the positive pin(?) there are no pins in there, just the coil wires, one going down through the inside of of the rubber/insulator/thingy, and one on outside, is it still the same, just with the coil going vertical?
I don't know the size of the kanthal I got a scrap from an unmarked baggie, ....it was not easy to stuff bitty wisps of cotton around that thing either, let me say that!! And it vapes, I use the term loosely, because it is also a bit gurgly.
well poo.
Almost zero airflow on a knock off protank I and nothing but a mouth full of jooze![]()
I managed to cram too much in there once lol.
Same here in the micro coil thread. I learned what I needed and stayed around for a while after but damn. That thread has legs!
Har har I just unintentionally made a pun.
I'm going to re-wick one very soon. Trickiest part is getting cotton under the top leg :/

Could you see through the coil, out through the protank base?
Here's mine:
![]()
![]()
![]()
ohhhh wait now, lookin' at your pics~~mind you, I'm using an evod....am I supposed to trail the cotton out the side slotty things like you did on the protank base? I did not do that. It still sounds gurgly, but is vaping fine, no more leaking....maybe not so gurly as it sounds sputtery.
Yes, I could see all the way thru. Gave a test blow and it was okay. Once it's screwed onto anything it get really tight and all I do is suck juice. Crappy Clone tank I'm sure which is why I quit using protanks long before they came out with the II or any of the others.