Is it dangerous? Why does it shut off my zmax? What could happen if i vape it on my joytech batteey that allows me to? Am i going to die... Haha, no but seriously i dont understand?
Low ohms? Help me please!
- Thread starter Arielbroner
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- vamo
- Status
Depends on how "low" the ohms are. What's it reading when you check it?
As far as your zmax not running it, I suspect that the low ohm protection is kicking in on it and not allowing the attached atty/carto/tank to fire, assuming that the zmax has the same built-in protection that most non-mechanical devices do. That means that the coil is probably less than 1.2 ohms.
As far as your zmax not running it, I suspect that the low ohm protection is kicking in on it and not allowing the attached atty/carto/tank to fire, assuming that the zmax has the same built-in protection that most non-mechanical devices do. That means that the coil is probably less than 1.2 ohms.
How low of ohms are we talking? And what are you using, a standard atomizer you bought somewhere or a rebuildable that you're coiling yourself?
If you're wrapping sub-ohm coils on an RBA and don't know the answers to the questions you asked, you're in way over your head and doing something that could potentially be dangerous. That sort of vaping is best left to people who understand electricity, battery safety and the proper precautions to take - and from your questions, it doesn't appear that you have that knowledge/experience yet.
If you're wrapping sub-ohm coils on an RBA and don't know the answers to the questions you asked, you're in way over your head and doing something that could potentially be dangerous. That sort of vaping is best left to people who understand electricity, battery safety and the proper precautions to take - and from your questions, it doesn't appear that you have that knowledge/experience yet.
Maybe.Arielbroner said:
Theoretically, yes. Describe what type of delivery device (what your juice is in) you have, please.
Well i have a 50/50 mix of juice. And i bought a standard carto which must be faulty because its suppose to be at 1.8 ohms. I plugged it on my sigeili zmax and it read low load miltiple tomes after multiple attempts of reconnecting it... Ao i looked it up and figured out that it ment low ohms. And i had no idea that it could be dangerous so i just plugged it on an old joytech battery i had and I have been vapon it all day... Until it occured to me that there is a reason that there would be a error for that so now im further looking into it.
Whoa stop what your doing STOP NOW you need to take it back to where you got it or contact them asap this could have injured someone, sub ohms is very dangerous if not done by an experienced vaper.
Wow thanks everyone! I had no clue and thank god I have a mod that measures ohms now! Gosh i love ECF!
The amount of current pulled by a conductor is equal to the voltage divided by the resistance. So when you use a really low resistance coil, it draws a lot of current. Most regulated devices will limit the amount of current allowed to flow in order to protect the electronic components from burning out. If the zmax is telling you that you're over the limit on a particular coil, you're probably near the limits on the joyetech as well. Be careful...
It's more likely to fry the electronics with a too-low ohm faulty coil on a non-mech mod.
Yeah, what does the zmax tell you for ohms?
Basically, the voltage setting matters too. It's not just the ohms. So...if you have 4.8 volts at 1.5 ohms that's a lot more watts than 1.5 ohms at 3.3 volts. The VV device will balk.
But what's more important is...the coil. So if the coil is 1.5 ohms (or 1.4) it's not designed for high watts. What low-ohm vapers do is they USE DIFFERENT COIL WIRE than what you find in the stock coils. That's part of the equation too.
So vaping a LR 1.5 ohm coil at high voltage MAY just give you a burnt mess or a fried (melted) coil. It's not the same thing as low-ohm vaping.
OTOH, if the coil is shorted or faulty....throw it away.
Yeah, what does the zmax tell you for ohms?
Basically, the voltage setting matters too. It's not just the ohms. So...if you have 4.8 volts at 1.5 ohms that's a lot more watts than 1.5 ohms at 3.3 volts. The VV device will balk.
But what's more important is...the coil. So if the coil is 1.5 ohms (or 1.4) it's not designed for high watts. What low-ohm vapers do is they USE DIFFERENT COIL WIRE than what you find in the stock coils. That's part of the equation too.
So vaping a LR 1.5 ohm coil at high voltage MAY just give you a burnt mess or a fried (melted) coil. It's not the same thing as low-ohm vaping.
OTOH, if the coil is shorted or faulty....throw it away.
Last edited:
IMO those cheap 25 cent looking 510 usb chargers are more dangerous than sub ohm vaping. lith ion batteries blowing up are more attributed to overcharging than shorting or a high amp discharge (sub ohm) as the majority of them have built in fail safes on top of your devices fail safes.
At most, if you ever mistakingly use a shorted or dangerously sub ohm atty on a regular ego, it would just kill your battery and/or like attypops said fry the electronics.
No idea where this whole battery blowing up from sub ohm vaping came from... that one over-reported incident that happened in FLORIDA?
At most, if you ever mistakingly use a shorted or dangerously sub ohm atty on a regular ego, it would just kill your battery and/or like attypops said fry the electronics.
No idea where this whole battery blowing up from sub ohm vaping came from... that one over-reported incident that happened in FLORIDA?
BTW...that one "over reported" incident, as you call it, cost the guy some major damage and changed the vaping scene forever.
So to those using mech mods...use the proper batteries, don't stack em, and know what you are doing.
However, the OP is not using a mech, she's getting a "low ohm" error on an APV...so maybe we can keep the SLR debate for another thread....(just a suggestion).
And eGo style batteries DO in fact get stressed and DO have problems (usually when charging...particularly if they have the wrong charger, but with the proper ones too.) So stressing the circuitry is not a wise thing to do. That's why they have built-in safety features.
So to those using mech mods...use the proper batteries, don't stack em, and know what you are doing.
However, the OP is not using a mech, she's getting a "low ohm" error on an APV...so maybe we can keep the SLR debate for another thread....(just a suggestion).
And eGo style batteries DO in fact get stressed and DO have problems (usually when charging...particularly if they have the wrong charger, but with the proper ones too.) So stressing the circuitry is not a wise thing to do. That's why they have built-in safety features.
Last edited:
Theoretically if it was a "perfect storm" so to speak the ego could explode. Not very likely at all, unless all the failsafes failed. I'm vaping about 1-1.2ohms on my ego but I'm a dumbass and shouldn't be copied. I also know what symptoms of amp overdraw are and how to avoid them. But yeah if you bouht a 1.8ohm coil and it's not 1.8 take the whole lot of em back to the vendor so you don't risk trying one and POP! It's just not worth it to damage your hardware or living area or body over a 1 or 2 dollar piece of plastic and metal.
If I had told the OP "no, you're fine" and something actually did happen to where her eGo battery had a catastrophic failure, then I would have felt absolutely horrible. Would it have blown up like a firecracker in her hand? More than likely not, obviously. But there does still exist that small chance and that is why I said theoretically, yes. I wasn't trying to scare her and I certainly don't want to be contacted by someone's injury lawyer based upon my advice saying "yeah, it's fine. It won't blow up." if it really did blow up in her face during a vape.
I'm all about being helpful and giving sound advice, but I'm not going to do it without CMA as well.
The eGo's normal reaction to a direct short is SNAP, and a blown mosfet ckt in the switch. The problem is that not all Ego (notice the difference in capitalization) batteries are equal. Ego has become a generic term referring to a class of products instead of a specific product. So it has become very important to know which one we are talking about, otherwise our advice *could* cause someone a problem.
The problem here is a specific carto on a Zmax, and the eGo thing is just confusing the picture. Personally I would have just checked the resistance of the carto with an ohm meter. That way I would have known if it was a bad carto, or a connection problem with the Zmax.
Actually I would suspect the connection problem. Wiggle the positive post in the carto a little and make sure it's properly centered, and the problem will most likely be gone.
Oh, and don't mind dr g, he finds something wrong with anything anyone says.
The problem here is a specific carto on a Zmax, and the eGo thing is just confusing the picture. Personally I would have just checked the resistance of the carto with an ohm meter. That way I would have known if it was a bad carto, or a connection problem with the Zmax.
Actually I would suspect the connection problem. Wiggle the positive post in the carto a little and make sure it's properly centered, and the problem will most likely be gone.
Oh, and don't mind dr g, he finds something wrong with anything anyone says.
Last edited:
Agreed...now that we know the circumstances. The OP contained very little info and looked, on the surface, like yet another person who jumped into SLR without having the faintest idea what they were doing. Now that we know differently, I'm sure the initial responses would have been phrased differently (and probably more helpfully).
I don't see his posts anymore.
Given that the carto is supposed to be 1.8 ohms, I believe this is a case where it is just not making good contact with positive post of the mod. Lowering the pin of the carto so that it makes proper contact will get everything back to normal.
- Status
Similar threads
