By "sd" do you mean the 3.7V
Screwdriver MKII?
The watts (i.e., intensity of the
vape) is virtually the same. Otherwise, there are pros and cons for each:
- 5V+ mods require stacking batteries, which is inherently dangerous. [You can reduce that risk by only using protected batteries and a mod which has very good venting.]
- LR atomizers are more delicate and prone to being burned out. [You can reduce the chance of that by always keeping the atty very moist, e.g., frequent dripping.]
I prefer an LR atty on a 3.7V mod (or on one of the "Fat Batts", e.g., eGO). It enables a smaller device and/or much higher mAh than the 5V or 6V mods ... and it is safest. For example, I'm currently using a ProVape-1 with an
AW 14500 battery (true 750 mAh). The ProVape has double venting and the AW has two types of protection built in (PCB and venting). And it is more slender than most higher voltage mods. An
18650-based mod is much higher mAh: true 2200, or up to 4000 (with the
Tekk*). One of the other, very interesting, ways to go with 3.7V (and the same battery), is with a juice feeder like the
WetBox: very small, semi-automatic juice injection, and less expensive than any 5V+ mod.
* The Tekk uses two 18650 batteries, but in parallel, i.e., unstacked.
But there certainly is something to be said for a variable voltage mod like the Buzz (which requires stacked batteries). Unlike an LR atty, you can tweak the watts to just the right level for you (and the e-liquid you are using).
Check out ViZi's
comprehensive guide to mods to see all that's currently available.
Lots of choices. Do whatever you can to minimize the risks and find a mod that has the features that most appeal to you. And never ever use unprotected batteries.