LR 510 Atties on the Precise and S6
- Thread starter grimmer255
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- altsmoke totally wicked
- Status
Ok. but I expect you have a lot more resistance in your test circuit than just the atomizer. wire, solder joints, etc.
Edit, yada yada yada, missed your post
My contraption is two adapters with a hot wire soldered to each positive post, and alligator clips on the outer threads of each, with a wire soldered between each for ground. Please be patient with me, I haven't messed with low voltage circuits since junior highschool.
My contraption is two adapters with a hot wire soldered to each positive post, and alligator clips on the outer threads of each, with a wire soldered between each for ground. Please be patient with me, I haven't messed with low voltage circuits since junior highschool.
Last edited:
Ahhh, I see now. Yes, you should be able to simply add all the measured resistances in the circuit. Can you do this?
1) Measure the resistance on the plus lead from adapter to adapter (you did that)
2) Measure the resistance on the negative lead from adapter and adpter (you did that too.
1) and 2) should give you the resistance of the test harness
3) measure the resistance through the atomizer. You can double check it by then screwing it onto the test harness and measuring the resistance from pos to neg at the adapter at the other end (what you screw into the precise). Numbers should jive after you subtract out the test harness resistance you got from 1) and 2).
4) Screw everything together. Then unscrew the precise and remove the battery. Can you get the meter leads on the positive post and the spring where the battery would contact them? Press the button and you should have resistance through the entire circuit. Number should be rational with the other measurements. This is the number we're after.
1) Measure the resistance on the plus lead from adapter to adapter (you did that)
2) Measure the resistance on the negative lead from adapter and adpter (you did that too.
1) and 2) should give you the resistance of the test harness
3) measure the resistance through the atomizer. You can double check it by then screwing it onto the test harness and measuring the resistance from pos to neg at the adapter at the other end (what you screw into the precise). Numbers should jive after you subtract out the test harness resistance you got from 1) and 2).
4) Screw everything together. Then unscrew the precise and remove the battery. Can you get the meter leads on the positive post and the spring where the battery would contact them? Press the button and you should have resistance through the entire circuit
. Number should be rational with the other measurements. This is the number we're after.
Here's what I did, ignore the colors. Used some atty adapters, didn't dawn on me to just add the atty to the mix.
Ok, let's see...
(minus meter's internal resistance on everything)
1) 0.1ohm
2) Now getting 0.2ohm (was 0.8ohm before, sh_t was also falling all over the place then)
3) 1.9ohms loose, 2ohms with harness
4) This is the tricky part. Best I could do is dismantle the button and it's housing and leave it out, inserted positive lead down into the Precise until it touched the positive contact on the atty connect, then placed the neg lead into the Precise spring (which carries the circuit from body to button housing) and touched it to the bottom of the body. Got 0.3 ohms. The button housing is still left out though.
Bed time for me, I will have to pick this back up tomorrow night after work. Thanks for all the help Quick!
(minus meter's internal resistance on everything)
1) 0.1ohm
2) Now getting 0.2ohm (was 0.8ohm before, sh_t was also falling all over the place then)
3) 1.9ohms loose, 2ohms with harness
4) This is the tricky part. Best I could do is dismantle the button and it's housing and leave it out, inserted positive lead down into the Precise until it touched the positive contact on the atty connect, then placed the neg lead into the Precise spring (which carries the circuit from body to button housing) and touched it to the bottom of the body. Got 0.3 ohms. The button housing is still left out though.
Bed time for me, I will have to pick this back up tomorrow night after work. Thanks for all the help Quick!
Ahhh, I see now. Yes, you should be able to simply add all the measured resistances in the circuit. Can you do this?
1) Measure the resistance on the plus lead from adapter to adapter (you did that)
2) Measure the resistance on the negative lead from adapter and adpter (you did that too.
1) and 2) should give you the resistance of the test harness
3) measure the resistance through the atomizer. You can double check it by then screwing it onto the test harness and measuring the resistance from pos to neg at the adapter at the other end (what you screw into the precise). Numbers should jive after you subtract out the test harness resistance you got from 1) and 2).
4) Screw everything together. Then unscrew the precise and remove the battery. Can you get the meter leads on the positive post and the spring where the battery would contact them? Press the button and you should have resistance through the entire circuit
So it's looking like you might have something like 2.5 ohms resistance in the whole curcuit. At 2.99 volts you'd be drawing about 1.1 - 1.2 amps from that battery. That might be about right... theoretically that would drain that battery in 15 min. Intermittent on/off like constant vaping it should last an hour? Major stress on the battery though. Might really reduce the life in number of charge/discharge cycles you'd get out of it. Past my bedtime too and I've got a headache from vape overdose waiting for you to make a test rig and take measurements (and I forgot what the objective was. lol)
that was fun. thanks.
(and I forgot what the objective was. lol)that was fun. thanks.
- Status
Similar threads
