Magnetic Button Question

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fright88

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The actual design is like this:

|--| o

Where:

| is the botton top head
-- is the botton post
| is the button contact with the axis

o is the axis post (where battery negative pole makes contact)


Something like this could work better?

|--c o

Where:

| is the botton top head
--
is the botton post
c
would be the botton contact point (it will make contact around the axis post)

o is the axis post (where battery negative pole makes contact)

That is what I was thinking but Para makes a good point. so maybe something more l like

|--| []

Where the brackets are the the battery post.
 

Para

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I hate to rain on the Idea Parade....but here's the problem with a rectangular/square end cap post. The insulator threads for the post and the end cap threads have to be in EXACT alignment so when you screw the end cap on, the post lines up perpendicular with the plunger...if it's off just a bit, it will either hit high or low on the flat surface. It can be done, but there's little or no room for error....just sayin'.

As it stands now....a flat clean polished plunger and a clean polished end cap post makes for a great point of contact. The ideas are great, but the application is a challenge.

What we need to do is get Dr. Parsons to work on it....we could call it the Alan Parson's Project.

images


*sorry, couldn't resist*
 

aruga

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Hello

Great information everyone. Kinda going over my level of understanding, but I really appreciate all the ideas.
What is odd is member silentt has the same problem I am having, but has the option to use a Brass button, which I do not have,
I get misfires using my 2012 steel button but not my brass buttons. It's confusing since its only while using the kick. Everything checked out okay and its all clean.

I have cleaned all points of contact in the tube and the post. I had to switch back to the original post because the new one with the sort protection does not fire at all when used with the Kick.
fright88 posted some great info. you have a lot of buttons. Seems like the Brass one is definitely the solution.
What confuses me is what member rwechsler said.
No, they will work with the SS buttons, there just isn't enough room for 3 of them like there is with the old GGTS and GGTB brass buttons. The new SS ones will fit 2, but i'm not sure about the new style brass buttons. Will test it when I get home
Does that mean it will work with my SS button that came with my GG-TS?

Still confused, but my plan (please tell me if this is a good one) is to order some of the R311 magnets from http://http://www.kjmagnetics.com/cart.asp?rp=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kjmagnetics.com%2Fproddetail.asp%3Fprod%3DR311
Then either get lucky and buy one of the new ones Imeo is getting ready to release, or put an add in the classifieds and maybe find an original brass button. But then there was talk that the magnets I am talking about may be cheap and not work correctly so maybe I should put a wanted post for magnets in the classified too.

I did not think having a magnet button would be such a challenge, but I am going to do it even though it may take a little time. I just don't want to order the wrong things and waste $$.

thanks to everyone for posting and still hoping for some more good info to clear up some of the confusion.
Aruga
 

fright88

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SSGGTS 442 would have come with a 2011 style button. those buttons can use 2 magnets instead of the 3 used in the adjustable thrown buttons. This will make it a very light fire but it should work unless the button has been changed to a 2011 style.

As for the magnets themselves I bought 20 or so magnets from Gaussboys 7 or 8 months ago in the following size
R0602

6mm x 3.5mm x 2mm N38 Nickel Plated Neodymium Magnet - Ring

These magnets all fit even though their specs are 6mm and not 5.5 however I know Dspin got a magnet stuck in a button for a while and I think it was one of these I sent him. Also I believe their specs are supssed to be within half a mm so it is possible the batch I got was on the small size so it is kinda a try at your own risk thing. However I know when I ordered them or 3 other members had also been using them at the time.
 
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aruga

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Hello

Fright ** you are full of great information. Thank you very much. I may order some from both stores just to be safe.
Let me test your knowledge if I may..
I found a guy selling a GGTS #2319 so just by chance I sent a PM asking if he had a brass button. He said he does. Did this model come with the type of button I am looking for or do you know? If so is it the button that only excepts 2 magnets instead of the 3.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/sale-trade/292435-sg-fs-ft-ggts-2319-a.html#post5958621
I sent one more PM trying to double confirm this guy knew what I was trying to do and that is was a BRASS button that is GGTS compatible, so if he responds yes I just found my button. But I have learned how some people can be easily confused by all the different parts so I just wanted to run this by you before I spend 40$ on a button that won't work.

Thanks again for all your help. I really appreciate it
Aruga
 

aruga

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Update.

I bought that button and it has 3 magnets included and he is shipping an extra 3 magnets. So I can help test the Kick problem with the GGTS now. My day is made. I hope it fixes the problem. I asked him to assemble it with the magnets already placed so the button will be ready to use out of the box, so we will see what happens.
I will keep everyone posted and to what happens with my device when I make the button change.
 

martinc

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Those are not GG buttons and work,well,kinda ok.

They are notchy and sometimes they stick (the magnets).

They loog good though.

If I were you,I would sand down or try to polish the best you can the inner post to insure the best sliding action possible (sticking might be from the magnet rubbing against the inner bore of the switch housing though... I can feel a distinct scratching when activating them.
 
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