Mark's super simple carto punch

[Bovinia]

Here it is in all it's super simple glory! Works great every time..no slipping, just plain easy. Thank you Mark For parts order list see this thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/pay-forward-pif/272989-diy-carto-punch.html

 

[908Tracy]

I love the simplicity of this!!!! Mark, you are a genius my friend!! Bov, thanks so much for posting this and taking such great photos to accompany it!

 

[Bovinia]

My pleasure Tracy! Sorry about the blurry one.

The hub is $4.95 with free shipping if you follow Mark's post that I linked, and the screws are the ones from Amazon I believe. Mark sent me a couple of the screws in the mail. My grip is good enough to turn the screw to get a punch with out using a wrench, but a 3/8" hex head wrench fits it if you need extra oomph.

Dummies guide!!

 

[BuzzKill]

Cool !!!
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[BlueFlyingV]

That will work for sure! I made a similar one at work the other day out of a chunk of 2024 T3 aluminum and a 10/32 screw. I even welded a little T handle on the screw head. Now if I could only remember to bring the damn thing home.

 

[markfm]

I like the wrench just to remember turns (yeah, I know, pretty sad ) Tighten the screw to touch the carto, then two full turns for the punch.

I bought the screws from amazon, but the $0.32 or so from the other place is a better price for a handful.

Thanks for posting, Bov!

 

[Bovinia]

Thank you for all the research you did Mark

 

[tsbman]

Thanks Mark for your ingenuity and BOV for posting it over here. Nice job!

 

[kpms0n]

i've already put an order for the body of the punch but i dont know if i want to risk the phosphate thing. as far as i know, the phosphate and zinc on the screws are coatings? will i need to remove the coating on the zinc one just like the phosphate one? also, what can i use to get rid of the coatings using household items? Dont have access to much in terms of things to grind off the coating

 

[markfm]

Do a couple of punches in an old carto, and lightly steel wool the tip.

 

[Nic-holio]

i've already put an order for the body of the punch but i dont know if i want to risk the phosphate thing. as far as i know, the phosphate and zinc on the screws are coatings? will i need to remove the coating on the zinc one just like the phosphate one? also, what can i use to get rid of the coatings using household items? Dont have access to much in terms of things to grind off the coating

I've always wondered if the phosphate coating commonly used to finish steel screws, washers etc. and other stuff is the same as manganese phosphate coating used to finish firearms (and other items such as tools, equipment, etc.). I suspect it is. That is also known as "parkerizing" or a parkerized finish.

If it is the same, then this finish is basically a reactive coating on the outer surface of the metal, created by submersing the steel in a solution of phosphoric acid (and other reagents? not sure, you buy the solution ready to mix with water) within a temperature range. The acid reacts with the manganese in the metal alloy on the outer surface of the submerged part and a gray-to-black coating forms on it.

This finish is basically an outer coating on the part, and although it is a result of chemical reaction the part basically does not change its dimensions.

Removing the finish without destroying the metal should be possible with a wire brush, wire wheel on a bench grinder, or other mildly abrasive methods. On the other hand, if you just happen to have a sandblasting rig and some glass bead media lying around, this will clean the finish off the screw quite nicely, haha. That was one of the main steps (and most recommended methods) to prepping parts you were about to put a new manganese phosphate coating on.

Everyone probably understands already but just mentioning... the reason that finish is there is to inhibit rust because the screw is made of steel. So once you remove the coating there is the increased possibility of rust.

 

[markfm]

Alternately, I listed a third part, which appears to be a plain 410 stainless steel. About $40 shipped for a box of 100.

If 9 or 10 people split a box, it would bring cost to about $6 each, including postage to send them to each of the people.

 

[Nic-holio]

BTW meant to say markfm, great idea. I have started playing around with CAD software lately with a few other ideas in mind (tanks, etc.) and was thinking of creating a punch that is machined properly, adjustable, degree guides, etc.. But with simple solutions that work well, maybe you don't need to get fancy.

 

[arkador]

Can't these screws just be picked up at the local hardware store?

I see CoV has their neat carto punch in stock, but realistically, there is nothing in want from them otherwise, and with shipping, that is almost $20

I'm going to go ahead and order the body, and see what Lowes has that will work with it. it has to work better than the Saddle Valve. about 1/3 the time, the saddle valve rocks the carto to the side, and just puts a scratch in the body.

 

[markfm]

It's the 1/4-20 set screw hole size that throws things off. An alternate part is a #12 stainless sheet metal screw, you can get them at Homedepot at $1.89 for 2. The thread size/pitch is not quite the same as the 1/4-20, it will certainly strip the hub over time (unless you switch to the drillspot black iron 3/8" Lovejoy hub, which might have bad threading last longer than their AL050), but they do work at least for some period of time.

I also checked out some drill point screws, which are available, but the drill point type just doesn't work well for this, you would need to grind them down to a cone point.

The KMac 410 stainless ones are the proper size, self tap, should work, the product description (finish) sounds like they are non-coated. I was just too cheap to bother buying a box of them, after checking multiple others out previously. The organic phosphate coating appears to come off the tip after a few punches on a throwaway carto, with a little steel wool or metal brush removing yet more -- I was looking for something that people could easily do themselves, with common home tools.

It sounds like there are people at least trying this hub out, I might get a box of the phillips stainless after all, just split it up into little baggies.

 

[arkador]

Can I paypal you for a screw or two Mark? What will it cost me? Surely you have a couple extra

 

[markfm]

PM sent, I did get a box of 25 phosphate coated, from Amazon/Paige, no problem sending out some sets of 3 or 4.

 

[Elendil]

I might try this. I use a saddle valve currently and i find that i need 2-3 holes to get a good flow of juice.

 

[arkador]

I have no problems with juice flow, my problem is getting the saddle valve to pierce streight. it works well, but I need something better.

THANKS MARK for your awesomeness!

 

[Bovinia]

I agree on the saddle valve being a PITA. Might try putting a piece of sticky felt on the bottom rocker part of the clamp and see if that helps keep the carto lined up.

I haven't touched my valve since I got this hub. I personally am not worried about the coating on the screw, but if you look at the pics, you can see that with only a few punches the coating is wearing off. The carto in my pics has about a dozen holes in it from practice runs of various punching techniques