Little change to existing carto punch method...

[RedFox]

Hello all! Not sure if this is posted in the right spot or not...if not please move or delete. I had been searching for a while on punching cartos (diy style), and found quite a few threads. The one that I settled with was found here by markfm.

While I liked the idea and price of the method. I was still having difficulty with my holes being too large or it was mushrooming out and making it difficult to put the SS end caps on. I also slotted cartos a few times but noticed my o-rings were getting damaged. I started out with the saddle valve and while I really liked the quality of the holes it was producing, but I was really frustrated with the way the carto would sometimes kick to the side.

So, I decided to incorporate markfm's find with the tried and true saddle valve method. This makes punching the size holes that I like simple and quick. While this will not be for everyone, due to cost and difficulty...I thought that some of you out there in ECF land might like this???

Things you will need:
21/64" drill bit
Saddle valve
Hub
1/8 - 27 NPT Tap
1/4" x .170" Vinyl tubing (Lowe's)

You need the tubing to keep the needle straight inside the valve assembly. I cut a piece about an inch long and worked it as far as I could into the assembly and trimmed off the rest.



I probably should have taken some before pics, but I think you'll get the idea from the ones attached.

Happy vaping!

 

[markfm]

I think I'll stick with the hub and 1/4-20 sheet metal screw, but that is indeed cool Nice job!

 

[RedFox]

Thanks! Yeah, what you have done was definitely by far one of the least expensive and easiest I have tried so far. How did you keep it from having the mushroom effect on your cartos? With my black caps it was not a problem as the had more give, but on my SS caps it was nearly impossible.

Thanks again!

 

[markfm]

I've used it on Ikenvape fusion, kanger, boge cartos, all of them bare stainless steel (the kanger I had to peel the labels).

They all end up with just the hole and a small "dimple" immediately around it, no carto deformation -- the hub is just barely larger than the carto diameter, there's basically no room for it to do anything bad. Using the 1/4-20 mirror sheet metal screw is important -- the black ones are what I've been using, though I have some of the zinc ones too.

By any chance were you putting the screw in deeper than two turns after initial contact? That shouldn't matter much, other than making the hole physically larger. The holes go near the bottom of the carto, connector end, where there is structural support from the connector -- the carto is naturally pretty stiff there.

I've used the same thing, just one size larger hub, to punch a thickwall stainless sleeve for an IO6, no problem with that either. Clean hole, no deformation other than the dimple.

End of the day what matters is that you have what works for you

 

[RedFox]

Hmm...I don't know then? You're are right though, I wouldn't think it could be deformed enough to make a difference either. I used the mirror screw that was mentioned. I didn't have any problems with the dual coil smokteks, it only seemed to be my xxl boges.

At any rate, it's working pretty good for me now. Thanks for the find on the hub!

 

[r77r7r]

That nylon tubing looks kind of narrow, but thanks for the measurements. I think Markfm's mod is probably best, but since I already had the saddlevalve I was looking to mod it also because of the pin drift.

I found an old rubber foot from a coffee maker ( Yeah, I keep everything- sadly) and it fit up there perfectly. Someone also told me that they keep the condom on to help with the pin drift.

 

[RedFox]

That nylon tubing looks kind of narrow, but thanks for the measurements. I think Markfm's mod is probably best, but since I already had the saddlevalve I was looking to mod it also because of the pin drift.

I found an old rubber foot from a coffee maker ( Yeah, I keep everything- sadly) and it fit up there perfectly. Someone also told me that they keep the condom on to help with the pin drift.

The pin didn't so much drift on me as the carto in the saddle...I think. I never tried the condom trick though, that sounds like it might work? Haha...I know what you mean about keeping everything.

The thing I like about markfm's find is the no-brainer insert and turn screw. There is no trying to align side to side. I did drill a hole in the opposite side of the hub so I can align the punched hole to create an additional hole on the reverse side.

 

[03ACE]

I'm a noob, so maybe I am missing something here, but why can't you just drill a hole in them if the intent is to just make a hole? I might be overlooking the need for tools, since I have a decent shop with small bits and a drill press, but it was the first thing that came to mind for me. Am I missing something obvious?

 

[markfm]

Pretty much the hassle factor. In punching cartos you want a relatively wide hole in a small thin-walled SS tube, yet you don't want to penetrate deeply, else you will punch through the filler and get flooding (too much eliquid making it to the center of the carto tube).

The hub with sheet metal screw gives an easy to control way of getting the hole there, with the hub providing good structural support and providing a guide for the screw (the hub comes with a set screw hole already drilled in it, 1/4-20 threaded); the screw has nowhere to go but into the center of the carto body, no possibility of it skittering to one side, and you don't have to futz with the saddle clamps. I went for the hub because I found the time to properly clamp a carto in a saddle valve, and accurately place the hole, just wasn't worth it, and I dislike the little metal handle on those self piercing valves.

Personal choice -- dremel, saddle valve, hub/screw, hammer/nail, drill all work, it just depends on what you find convenient.

 

[03ACE]

Gotcha. Thanks for the info!