Measuring ohms in atties with multi-meter??
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This post will show you exactly what you need to know,...
This post will show you exactly what you need to know,...
To get a true reading, hold the leads togther until it settles down. Subtract that number from the reading you get on the atty. That gives you the true reading because it compensates for the resistance in the leads of the mutimeter.
Now, if you have what is supposed to be a 1.5 LR and it reads 1.7 or 1.8 that is the range of cheap so-called 1.5s LRs. Attys like Ciscos are within something like .02 or so. So close enough to be true 1.5s.
Hope this helps
Now, if you have what is supposed to be a 1.5 LR and it reads 1.7 or 1.8 that is the range of cheap so-called 1.5s LRs. Attys like Ciscos are within something like .02 or so. So close enough to be true 1.5s.
Hope this helps
Sounds like you're measuring the ohms of a dead atty. I hate when that happens!
If you have a decent multimeter, you ought to be able to tare out the resistance in the wires/leads. Touch them together, zero that out (or subtract if you cant tare).... Atties have 2 electrical connections on the bottom. If you look closely, you can see where they are separated by a rubber ring. The base/hole is the power, the threads are the ground. Power/ground doesnt matter here, you just need to complete the circuit. Just putting the lead in the hole may not complete the circuit... be sure you're touching metal!
Me too. Just got through cleaning one. Measured it and it read exactly what the leads show when I touch them directly together. Sadly threw it in the trashcan. Pitching a cartomizer doesn't hurt, atomizers do.
Hey hubseven, make sure you wiggle around the leads to ensure you make good contact with the metal on the atomizer.
I always put one lead in the center hole in the bottom of the atomizer, and the the other lead in the little bitty hole on the the outside vent hole (right above the threads on a 510). Helps me to keep the leads from jumping around...
Not trying to be a know-it-all, but some meters require a battery in order to give a resistance (ohm) reading. All my newer meters already have them, but my "old faithful" Radioshack analog meter has to have one placed inside (screw on the back). Be sure you're actually getting readings (like, something other than zero when you touch the leads) before you throw out an atty.
When an atty is dead, your meter will display whatever it displays when you set it to measure ohms and the leads aren't touching each other.
I find both high and nothing on my problem atty's. I have not given up on them yet though. Waiting for the Sonic cleaner to get here, will run them through and check again.
That sonic cleaner will strip the paint off an atty. Just be aware of that and maybe put tape on it so the water doesn't get to it.
Had some experience with stripping paint with just a soak in Everclear!!!! Ate it right off!
That sonic cleaner will strip the paint off an atty. Just be aware of that and maybe put tape on it so the water doesn't get to it.
I have to 2nd what nerak has said, dead ones give me 0 ohms reading, and I find anything over 6 or 7 ohms it is unusuable. I had a brand new one (SLB 901) that was a 3.0 ohm but gave me a reading of 8+. It would fire, but all I could get was a burnt nasty taste. I returned it and VK replaced it no questions asked.
I generally check them before and after a sonic cleaning, and even though I've never seen one change its resistance from the cleaning, I always check them to be sure before I connect them to a PV. It would suck large toads to short out an expensive PV with a bad <$10 atty.
I generally check them before and after a sonic cleaning, and even though I've never seen one change its resistance from the cleaning, I always check them to be sure before I connect them to a PV. It would suck large toads to short out an expensive PV with a bad <$10 atty.
Which is why redundancy is a requirement when dealing with electrical devices.. (I have 4 multimeter's to double-check my double checks before I throw anything that is suspected as "bad") Over-kill, yes.
Which is why redundancy is a requirement when dealing with electrical devices.. (I have 4 multimeter's to double-check my double checks before I throw anything that is suspected as "bad") Over-kill, yes.
Definitely overkill (Whew! I only have 3 meters
) I would never suggest that! (j/k, Mvgratz)
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