Hey people got a fuhatten mech runnin awt 2600mah 40a on a alien Clapton .125ohm build its with in "safe" limits but was wondering if there any good or better replacements the mxjo I got as back up for when I was runnin single micros is on the side lines this build heats the battery before heats the coils n these awt take a while to ramp up can get 3-4 good pulls then gotta let it rest n cool down.
Mech mod battery search
- Thread starter Lizzardking337
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There are no 18650 cells with a CDR of more than 30a.
The only cells with a true 30a CDR are LG HB series.
The awt & mxjo are at best 20a cells, not anywhere near my idea of 'safe'.
4.2v/.125Ω = 33.6a
4v/.125Ω = 32a
3.7v/.125Ω= 29.6a
3.5v/.125Ω = 28a
Battery getting hot / heating up is a warning sign, not something to be ignored.
May want to read these to help select appropriate cells.
----> Mooch's Recommended Batteries | E-Cigarette Forum
---> List of Battery Tests | E-Cigarette Forum
If saftey is of any concern .125Ω using a single cell mechanical isn't, especially not with insufficient falsely labeled cells.
The only cells with a true 30a CDR are LG HB series.
The awt & mxjo are at best 20a cells, not anywhere near my idea of 'safe'.
4.2v/.125Ω = 33.6a
4v/.125Ω = 32a
3.7v/.125Ω= 29.6a
3.5v/.125Ω = 28a
Battery getting hot / heating up is a warning sign, not something to be ignored.
May want to read these to help select appropriate cells.
----> Mooch's Recommended Batteries | E-Cigarette Forum
---> List of Battery Tests | E-Cigarette Forum
If saftey is of any concern .125Ω using a single cell mechanical isn't, especially not with insufficient falsely labeled cells.
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N batt only heats up instantly with the mxjo, the awt after 4 pulls gotta let it rest Now we cooking lg hb batteries was thinkin n was recommend to get the Samsung 25r
I suggest reading the links I provided, you seem confused about battery saftey & selection.
25r is a good 20a CDR cell, not a good selection for .125Ω
Again, heat is a warning sign, what you're doing can become dangerous in a split second. Up till now you've been very lucky something hasn't gone wrong, continue to ignore basic battery saftey & your luck will run out.
25r is a good 20a CDR cell, not a good selection for .125Ω
Again, heat is a warning sign, what you're doing can become dangerous in a split second. Up till now you've been very lucky something hasn't gone wrong, continue to ignore basic battery saftey & your luck will run out.
That's y I created this to get people's feed back on good batteries lookin at charts is one thing getting replies from people is even better
And the Medusa alien claptons on package said .25 I got a fluke multimeter n when leads connect to bottom n side of 510 pin reads .1 n one coil reads .2
That's why I linked to a list of actual individual cell tests & results.
Simply put .125Ω is too low for safe use when using a single cell mech, especially if you don't understand basic battery saftey & selection, ohms law, mech/rba use & precautions.
Simply put .125Ω is too low for safe use when using a single cell mech, especially if you don't understand basic battery saftey & selection, ohms law, mech/rba use & precautions.
Well choices are lg hb6 or Sony vtc5a hmmm or drop to one coil, get a regulated mod or get new coils hmmm
Absolute lowest resistance you can run on a single battery mech is 0.14ohms
4.2v/0.14ohms=30amps <-- Only the LG HB2, 4, and 6 can handle this load adequately in case of an auto fire or some other mishap, there are no other batteries on the market that exceed this CDR rating, any that have a 35 or 40 amp rating on their wrapper are a re-wrap company that buy the less than adequate B and C bin rated batteries that LG, Samsung, Sony, and Panasonic/Sanyo themselves say didn't pass A Bin specifications to begin with.
If those fancy Medusa Alien Claptons in a dual coil setup go below resistance of 0.14ohms you need to be looking at a dual battery parallel battery box mod or they need to be run on a regulated mod that has a control board between those coils and the battery. There is no getting around the Ohm's Law math or the physics involved here, nor the chemistry of the batteries we use, especially in 18650 format. Even most professional Cloud competitors do not run below 0.2 on an all day vape setup, for a cloud comp setup yes they down into pulse ratings, which is what the actual rating of 40amps is on those AWT, and only run those setups maybe a dozen times in an hour's span for the competition they are in at that time, rest of the time they are on their daily driver setup. Dance around the edge of a cliff, eventually you will slip and your risk of falling off that cliff are greater, or quit poking that metal dragon, eventually you'll get a face full of fire if you keep vaping at that dangerous level you are.
No real reason to be down as low as you are on your resistance, if your vape has to be that hot you need to rethink your gear or why you are really vaping, just saying, don't want to see you as the latest "Teen Has Fuhattan Ecigarette Blow His Jaw Off" headline on CNN and Fox news.
4.2v/0.14ohms=30amps <-- Only the LG HB2, 4, and 6 can handle this load adequately in case of an auto fire or some other mishap, there are no other batteries on the market that exceed this CDR rating, any that have a 35 or 40 amp rating on their wrapper are a re-wrap company that buy the less than adequate B and C bin rated batteries that LG, Samsung, Sony, and Panasonic/Sanyo themselves say didn't pass A Bin specifications to begin with.
If those fancy Medusa Alien Claptons in a dual coil setup go below resistance of 0.14ohms you need to be looking at a dual battery parallel battery box mod or they need to be run on a regulated mod that has a control board between those coils and the battery. There is no getting around the Ohm's Law math or the physics involved here, nor the chemistry of the batteries we use, especially in 18650 format. Even most professional Cloud competitors do not run below 0.2 on an all day vape setup, for a cloud comp setup yes they down into pulse ratings, which is what the actual rating of 40amps is on those AWT, and only run those setups maybe a dozen times in an hour's span for the competition they are in at that time, rest of the time they are on their daily driver setup. Dance around the edge of a cliff, eventually you will slip and your risk of falling off that cliff are greater, or quit poking that metal dragon, eventually you'll get a face full of fire if you keep vaping at that dangerous level you are.
No real reason to be down as low as you are on your resistance, if your vape has to be that hot you need to rethink your gear or why you are really vaping, just saying, don't want to see you as the latest "Teen Has Fuhattan Ecigarette Blow His Jaw Off" headline on CNN and Fox news.
Actually neither cell you mentioned would be considered safe with .125Ω & single cell mech.
IMO, a regulated power device & quality name brand cells bought from a reputable vendor/dealer would allow you to use anything within the power devices range safely.
In other words a very good idea, at least until you gain the knowledge necessary to use the mech safely.
IMO, a regulated power device & quality name brand cells bought from a reputable vendor/dealer would allow you to use anything within the power devices range safely.
In other words a very good idea, at least until you gain the knowledge necessary to use the mech safely.
OK back to basics 7 wrap 22g kanthal
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Dual coils 22ga 7 wrap 2.5mm - 3mm ID is gonna still be too low for the cells you are using, especially considering how severely they've been abused.
lots of mass, be inefficient & have long ramp up.
Single 26ga .4Ω and up until you get sufficient batteries & figure out how to vape safley using a mech.
You have to crawl before you walk, learn how to walk before you can run.
Mechanical / RBA set ups are for experienced users, in the hands of the uninformed or inexperienced they are dangerous.
The very first step in safley using a mech is to know the true limit of the cells you use and to use resistances that do not exceed that limit, before pressing the fire button for the very first time.
lots of mass, be inefficient & have long ramp up.
Single 26ga .4Ω and up until you get sufficient batteries & figure out how to vape safley using a mech.
You have to crawl before you walk, learn how to walk before you can run.
Mechanical / RBA set ups are for experienced users, in the hands of the uninformed or inexperienced they are dangerous.
The very first step in safley using a mech is to know the true limit of the cells you use and to use resistances that do not exceed that limit, before pressing the fire button for the very first time.
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Running batteries at their absolute theoretical maximum CDR (Amp Limit) is a *really* bad idea - those batteries aren't going to remain minty fresh for very long, and there's also the issue of variation between batches etc. to bear in mind.
You should allow a 25-50% safety margin when using cells to vape with in mechs IMO, so a battery that's rated with a CDR of 20A - pull 10-15A from it max.
In other words, Lizzardking337, if those cells you've got were new, then I'd only build down to .3-.4 Ohms on them.
Seeing as you've abused them to the point where they've actually been heating up (never a good sign!) running them *well* beyond their safe discharge ratings, then I would preferably send them for recycling and invest in some decent, new ones.
I can recommend the Samsung 30Q and 25Rs having used them for a few years - they are rated as being 20A capable cells (so good for down to .3-.4 Ohms).
You should allow a 25-50% safety margin when using cells to vape with in mechs IMO, so a battery that's rated with a CDR of 20A - pull 10-15A from it max.
In other words, Lizzardking337, if those cells you've got were new, then I'd only build down to .3-.4 Ohms on them.
Seeing as you've abused them to the point where they've actually been heating up (never a good sign!) running them *well* beyond their safe discharge ratings, then I would preferably send them for recycling and invest in some decent, new ones.
I can recommend the Samsung 30Q and 25Rs having used them for a few years - they are rated as being 20A capable cells (so good for down to .3-.4 Ohms).
So the outcome got two Samsung 25r I did a pair 5 wrap 22g .3 ohm I'll toss the mxjo n keep the awt as emergency back ups
5 wraps of 22ga - 2mm ID
(approximate size using typical blue screw driver ) would be around .24ish - .27ish each coil x 2 coils = .12Ω to . 135Ω
If you're using 2 coils resistance is halved, 2 .3Ω coils = .15Ω
4.2 / .15Ω = 28a, not safe using 20a CDR cells.
That is unless you're a magician and somehow made 2 .6Ω coils with 5 wraps of 22ga.
2 .6Ω coils = .3Ω
(approximate size using typical blue screw driver ) would be around .24ish - .27ish each coil x 2 coils = .12Ω to . 135Ω
If you're using 2 coils resistance is halved, 2 .3Ω coils = .15Ω
4.2 / .15Ω = 28a, not safe using 20a CDR cells.
That is unless you're a magician and somehow made 2 .6Ω coils with 5 wraps of 22ga.
2 .6Ω coils = .3Ω
picture not turning out cant find my macro lenses ugh, just made a pair of vertibraids 26g one coil is.5ohm. so I will definitely invest a n regulated mod box cause .25 ohm is still pushing the batts
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