I once had that problem with a Helios clone (atty). The pin on the atty had recessed a bit, and the mod was not making contact as it normally would. I pushed the pin down, and it's back to normal.
what about the covering on the battery? looking over the threads you did mention lacerations on the battery insulation. On a bottom switch mod this can lead to shorting even when the switch is off
I tried posting a video, but failed. They are micro lacerations, there's no metal visible through the casing, those come from sliding battery in and out.
Im not sure if this has been said yet, but you know that little pin inside the casing
under the 510 connection? If you arent using a button top this has to be unscrewed quite a bit to make a connection.
Ive had my panzer got hot once before from that pin not being unscrewed enough.
Its probably something else but just an idea.
Edit: I guess this was already said. I should've looked at the top of the last page before posting haha.
Well, the problem is solved. Apparently it was a short that would come and go. I bought an Eleaf ohm meter from a local shop, so hopefully it doesn't happen again. I also bought a new battery and some magnets for the firing button. It seems to work much better. Thanks for all your help ladies and gentlemen. I built a dual coil at .3 ohms and it's hitting like a champ.
Glad to hear you worked out the problem. Always, always, always have a non-analog back-up with you just in case something happens to your primary...keeps you off the nasty in the event something like this happens again.
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