I've had my Tesla invader mech for a while and never ever had a problem with it. But recently I've gotten some of the tubular single battery mech mods. (One copper Manhattan 1:1 clone, and one silver fuhattan SLS skyline m6 clone). But I've noticed with both that after a few back to back hits, that it the mod starts getting warm warm. Borderline hot. But I can pull the battery out and its usually pretty cool still. I did notice a time or 2 that the battery was getting a lil warmer. So I'd give it a chance to cool. The rda is a dark horse clone with dual coils at .27 ohms. The battery is a vtc4. The button doesn't get hot, its only the tubes themselves. I don't understand. It hits great, no shorts or anything. I'm just trying to understand what I can do to prevent/avoid this, and what causes this. Thanks guys.
mech mod getting warm/hot?
- Thread starter j0nj0n3s
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
My mod does the same thing. It is transferring the heat from the battery, which is what it is supposed to be doing.
I have noticed if I go to a heavy gauge kanthal wire, everything heats up. Both my rda and mod act like a heat sync. If your 18650 battery gets hot or is the cause of excessive heat, I would be cautious. Sony vtc's do have a reputation for being among the more safe batteries in the 18650 form, even without protective pcb. But you mentioned the button didn't get hot, so i would have to lean towards maybe the coil could be the source? If you haven't changed the size of the wire, the coil position being changed even slightly, can heat things up also. Batteries that suddenly heat up or change behavior scare me personally. I would be uncomfortable discharging an unstable battery pointed toward my face.
A battery should never feel warm or hot. Neither should the fire button or mod body. Only the atomizer should feel warm because of the heating coil firing and generating enough heat to vaporize the e-liquid.
0.3 ohm is theoretically within the safe limits of an authentic Sony VTC battery. I am of the mindset that you should leave a margin of safety when deciding what resistance coil to use. We probably place too much faith into cheap ohm readers in being precise and accurate. Also, a RDA's post screw unknowingly coming loose can greatly change the coil's resistance.
Everyone is free to set their own parameters, and I can only say what mine are.
I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So for example, with a 20A batteries, that would be 10A. The Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a .4 ohm build is as low as I would want to use.
The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, your 20A battery may only be a 10A battery.
0.3 ohm is theoretically within the safe limits of an authentic Sony VTC battery. I am of the mindset that you should leave a margin of safety when deciding what resistance coil to use. We probably place too much faith into cheap ohm readers in being precise and accurate. Also, a RDA's post screw unknowingly coming loose can greatly change the coil's resistance.
Everyone is free to set their own parameters, and I can only say what mine are.
I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So for example, with a 20A batteries, that would be 10A. The Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a .4 ohm build is as low as I would want to use.
The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, your 20A battery may only be a 10A battery.
Last edited:
One of the features of the Sony VTC5 was it's ability to withstand the higher heat levels the battery generated during high amp use.. Vaping shouldn't get you there though. When you use lower ohm builds you have the risk of approaching the resistance of the mod itself. Heat gets generated at the highest resistance and the is no mod with zero resistance. Add the mild oxidizing in the threads and on the contacts that builds up and you may approach the resistance of that 0.27Ω coil. The heat from the coil will make metal mods warm, particularly when chain vaping as well. In short, if you wanna vape that low with dual coils , get used to the heat.
The same happens to me on my mech every thing can get warm/hot as long as the battery isn't hot. For me my mech only gets really hot when I'm hella chain vaping.
If your atomizer sits flush with the tube, it could be transferring heat from the atomizer to the mod body. If you want everything to sit flush, then I recommend getting a 510 heat sink to help curb the transferral of heat.
Its exactly at 50% BC its 15a on a 30a CDR. I will try it with a thinner wire tho. Right now its wrapped with 24 gauge, but I'll try 26 or 28. And it reads either .2 or .3 on my sigelei box as well. Its not like the heat really bothers me or anything, I just wanna make sure its safe and I can vape safely
Copper is a really good conducter of heat as well as electricity. It will get warm when running an RDA with a really low build. There could also be micro-arcing in the threads around the top cap or the button making it warm under heavy load.
I vape at 10 to 15 watts and sometimes my mods heat up.
One of my mods started heating at the bottom recently and I just unscrewed the bottom cap and twisted it up a bit (screw/unscrew a few times) to rub out some corrosion, and done, no more hot bottom.
In your case you are
- running a 0.3 ohm coil on a 4 volt battery so you are
- drawing about 13 amps and
- running about 50 watts power.
That's assuming you don't have any significant losses from the mod
If you've got about 0.1 ohm contact resistance on your mod, that's a total of
- 0.4 ohm coil on a 4 volt battery
- drawing about 10 amps, and
- running about 40 watts, 30 of which are going to your coil but 10 lost in heating up the mod.
This is why people who run low ohms on mech mods spend money of copper mechs and silver contacts and that sort of stuff.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
