Mech mod safety: charging and low res vaping

[Rymarski]

So I'm venturing into mech mods and would like just two general answers in regards to safety.

I have read a decent amount of information and material through this forum in regards to battery safety, low res vaping, and the usage of RBAs on mech mods. I generally use AW IMR batteries ranging from 18350, 18490, and 18650. These are the only batteries I use with a tenergy charger.

1.) When using a freshly charged battery from 4.2v when do you know when to stop using the mech mod and charge the battery properly? On my VV device once it hits 3.4v my device informs me I need to start charging. What if you continue vaping past this level on a mech mod? Do I need to constantly be aware of the power left on a battery and use a multimeter to check?

2.) vaping with sub 1 ohm coils on a mech mod with an RBA creates outstanding results. I understand this. But is there a general rule of thumb in regards to how low you should really go without having to worry about anything? Of course there is always a possibility of a short, but what is the general rule of thumb when it comes to the lowest resistance level while keeping a safe boundary?

I have read alot of information through this forum, but still would like a more concrete understanding of using a completely mechanical device without any safety built in other than vent holes. Thanks in advance.

 

[Fury83]

Basics

You'll notice the vape getting weaker once you get near 3.4 volts. Get a multimeter for 15 bucks and test a few times when you start noticing a drop off, you'll get a feel for when to charge.

The best rule is to buy the best batteries you can get. You can also pick up a shortstop or vapesafe which will cut you off at around 6 amps.

Good batteries, a good charger, a fuse and a cheapo multimeter are a good way to start out on a good note. The fuse is not necessary, I like them as piece of mind when I can. Also, keep in mind you may not like to vape at 10 watts plus, I certainly don't. Honestly, if you are going to be putting a rebuildable on a mech, something to test it with is essential and a fuse is a good idea (like really good, like at least get something to test the RBA).

 

[Rymarski]

Thanks fury. Yes, my VV device does have a multimeter built in so I always check my coils and resistance.

Question again though with the battery: what if I continue to vape past 3.4v on a mech mod without a fuse (vape safe, etc)? Is this possible and can issues arise from this? Im sure I will not risk that chance, but would just like clarification.

 

[Fury83]

I believe below 3.2 can affect the battery. As in shortening the life and such.

The fuse is for shorts only.

I can honestly say I notice the dip in voltage well before 3.2


Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

 

[Rader2146]

With quality IMRs the minimum voltage is 2.5v. You will definitely know that its time to charge before you get that low.

Keep in mine that if you are vaping sub ohm coils, the max discharge on an AW 18350 is 6 amps. So keep you coils at .8 or more with the little batts.

 

[Fury83]

With quality IMRs the minimum voltage is 2.5v. You will definitely know that its time to charge before you get that low.

Keep in mine that if you are vaping sub ohm coils, the max discharge on an AW 18350 is 6 amps. So keep you coils at .8 or more with the little batts.

I couldn't remember the number, I just remembered all my VV/VW cut out at 3.2v. Honestly, unless you are wrapping super low ohm coils, I can't see not yanking the battery out well before 2.5v. My coils are usually 1.8-2.0ish, so by 3.2v I am all set.

I try to use panasonic hybrids for any 18650 and AW's for anything else. I know efests are well regarded on here but I have received different batteries (just with an efest sticker) from them, so it's hard to trust them in that regard unless I have to.

 

[Rymarski]

With quality IMRs the minimum voltage is 2.5v. You will definitely know that its time to charge before you get that low.

Keep in mine that if you are vaping sub ohm coils, the max discharge on an AW 18350 is 6 amps. So keep you coils at .8 or more with the little batts.

What about 18490 or 18650? So using an 18350 on a 0.8 ohm setup can go to a max of 4.8 volts or 28 watts?

 

[Rader2146]

10 amps for the 18490 and 2000mAh 18650.
24 amps for the 1600mAh 18650.

With a mech mod you won't get 4.8v or even 4.2v. Loaded voltage (the voltage that matters for amperage calculations) might hold ~3.8 on a fresh charge with sub-ohm coils.

If you really wanted to push the envelope, .7ohms would still be slightly under 6 amps after the voltage drop.

 

[Rymarski]

10 amps for the 18490 and 2000mAh 18650.
24 amps for the 1600mAh 18650.

With a mech mod you won't get 4.8v or even 4.2v. Loaded voltage (the voltage that matters for amperage calculations) might hold ~3.8 on a fresh charge with sub-ohm coils.

If you really wanted to push the envelope, .7ohms would still be slightly under 6 amps after the voltage drop.

Ok thank you.

And from what I understand, 1600 mah 18650 aw IMR batteries hold down voltage better underload than the 2000 mah batteries correct? From what I read 1600 mah are better for mech mods.

Didn't realize the difference in amps on those batteries being so much larger. I guess vaping at an optimal 0.8-1.2 ohms will never reach anywhere near 6+ amps on a mech mod correct? Specifically because mech mods usually vape at 3.7 volts freshly charged.

Sorry if I'm throwing anything incorrect out there. Still learning .

 

[shortee611]

I got this from another post (Thanks dspin) its about mnke imr 18650's
I havent tried them yet but they sound good. I use aw imr's

From Avid Vaper

Maximum Continuous Discharging Current 20 A

Maximum pulse Discharging Current 60 A

Maximum Continuous Charging Current 6.5 A

Maximum Rated Discharging Current 30 A

Nominal Voltage 3.8 V

Maximum Charge Voltage 4.2±0.05 V

Temperature Range/Discharge -20~60degree

Temperature Range/Charge 0~45degree

Temperature Range/Storage -20~35 degree

Internal Resistance at Shipping 23±1 m

Here's the link to that post
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...enesis-type-atomizer-did-367.html#post8724648

 

[Rymarski]

Yea seems like the mnke hold the best voltage under load. That's what I have been reading. So again, for safe low res vaping those examples are safe bets.

 

[EDO]

Everyone is different...but normally I like to use 18350 batteries since I like my mods to be short. Every 2ml I vape I change the battery. With 18650 batteries I change the batteries after every 4ml I vape. I get a very consistent vape this way. I never get close to the 3.2v level when I have checked with my voltmeter.

 

[xformulax]

i can feel my vape drop off around 3.6-3.7v, thats when i swap batteries... occasionally i'll use the multimeter to test, and without fail they'll be at 3.6-3.7v... after a while of mech vaping it comes pretty naturally.

 

[shortee611]

i can feel my vape drop off around 3.6-3.7v, thats when i swap batteries... occasionally i'll use the multimeter to test, and without fail they'll be at 3.6-3.7v... after a while of mech vaping it comes pretty naturally.

I'm the exact same way. Its easy to tell same flavor just less vapor production.

 

[sawlight]

Everyone is different...but normally I like to use 18350 batteries since I like my mods to be short. Every 2ml I vape I change the battery. With 18650 batteries I change the batteries after every 4ml I vape. I get a very consistent vape this way. I never get close to the 3.2v level when I have checked with my voltmeter.

How did we ever survive in the old days?

If you use protected batteries it will be fine, they will automatically cut off at the discharge limit. But after a while you will easily notice the voltage drop. I can remember a few times using my BB and thinking it wasn't quite right, sure enough it wouldn't fire after that. Changed the battery, and good to go again.
I also don't see much point in sub ohm coils, even with a voltage sag to 3.7v a .8ohm coil is 17.11 watts drawing 4.6 amps. This is a pretty hot vape and you wont get much battery life, regardless of the battery used! I've run some juice at 10 watts, but IMO, anything over 12 just kills the flavor to me. I've no idea how people vape at 20watts and think it can taste good?
Really, you are way over thinking this, get protected batteries, use it a while and you will figure it out pretty quickly.

 

[kiwivap]

i can feel my vape drop off around 3.6-3.7v, thats when i swap batteries... occasionally i'll use the multimeter to test, and without fail they'll be at 3.6-3.7v... after a while of mech vaping it comes pretty naturally.

Same here - lowest I have gone was 3.5v. Usually at 3.6v I know I need to change because the vapor production has dropped off.

 

[EDO]

How did we ever survive in the old days?

If you use protected batteries it will be fine, they will automatically cut off at the discharge limit. But after a while you will easily notice the voltage drop. I can remember a few times using my BB and thinking it wasn't quite right, sure enough it wouldn't fire after that. Changed the battery, and good to go again.
I also don't see much point in sub ohm coils, even with a voltage sag to 3.7v a .8ohm coil is 17.11 watts drawing 4.6 amps. This is a pretty hot vape and you wont get much battery life, regardless of the battery used! I've run some juice at 10 watts, but IMO, anything over 12 just kills the flavor to me. I've no idea how people vape at 20watts and think it can taste good?
Really, you are way over thinking this, get protected batteries, use it a while and you will figure it out pretty quickly.

Vaping at 12watts and above on a 32g wire isn't the same as vaping higher watts on 28g wire. The 32g wire actually gets a lot hotter than 28g wire if both of them are running at lets say 15 watts. I recently switched from 32g kanthal to 28g kanthal. I am currently running a 1 ohm set up and the vape is smooth as silk and the flavor is great. The battery life with the set up is really good because it hits like a cigarette so I don't take 5 second drags.....2 second drags at most. I won't be using the rest of my 32g wire and my VV/VW devices anymore.

 

[Kevin King]

exactly what EDO said... 28g kanthal is superior for sure in my books