I've read in several places that they can be rather dangerous. Can anyone link me something to learn more about these mods? I found a few that I really like, my top choice being the Nemesis, but I need to know if I need to worry about blowing it up from not doing something right before I put down the cash to get it.
Mech mods
- Thread starter VoodooZero
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Rather dangerous? I don't think so. If used carelessly and improperly, of course there's danger...just like using a gas oven carelessly and improperly can be dangerous.
mods them selves are not dangerous but the recoiling of atomizer is where is danger is learn to recoil and have ohm meter handy to check for shorts
There's no electronic nanny on a mech. You are responsible for your own safety. Learn Ohm's Law.
Use safer technology IMR batteries (unprotected because they don't need to be) with a maximum continuous current rating higher than your delivery device will draw. A protected ICR battery won't fire a sub-ohm load and an unprotected ICR battery shouldn't be used at all.
Ensure you aren't putting a shorted atomizer on a mech (use an ohmmeter or multimeter to measure the resistance) or an atomizer that will draw current in excess of your battery's rating.
If the mod starts getting hot fast, get off the fire button, and find and remove the short. If the battery got hot, properly dispose and replace it.
Use safer technology IMR batteries (unprotected because they don't need to be) with a maximum continuous current rating higher than your delivery device will draw. A protected ICR battery won't fire a sub-ohm load and an unprotected ICR battery shouldn't be used at all.
Ensure you aren't putting a shorted atomizer on a mech (use an ohmmeter or multimeter to measure the resistance) or an atomizer that will draw current in excess of your battery's rating.
If the mod starts getting hot fast, get off the fire button, and find and remove the short. If the battery got hot, properly dispose and replace it.
Using high quality, name brand, IMR or hybrid batteries are a must in any mod, regulated or mechanical. But especially in a mechanical. In a mechanical mod with a metal piston switch and no wiring, your weak link is the battery. This is not a link you want to break while it is in close proximity to your face. Over-taxing any battery in a mech can create a little pipe bomb.
Regulated mods have built-in protective circuitry which will automatically kick in when there is an unsafe situation such as a short and either refuse to fire or shut itself down. Mechanical mods have no protection circuits. It's just a battery and you.
Too many people are jumping into mechanical mods without understanding what they are getting into and not realizing it is not a care-free device like a Vamo or eGo. It requires more attention to details and a better understanding of all the variables. Too often people on forums say, " Mech mods are easy, just drop a battery in and make some clouds. I don't understand why others say it is not for beginners." Because if you don't understand all the things you need to watch for there is a serious chance of something possibly going wrong down the road.
Mech mods are not learning devices. They need to be understood before you begin to experiment with them. So far people have been lucky. Some people don't check the batteries they use, don't know what resistance their coils are at etc, and nothing has happened, giving a false sense of security to others to try the same things, but all it will take is one bad coil or one bad battery to change someone's face forever.
These batteries were not originally intended for what we are using them for. In fact, I have read that Panasonic, Sanyo, Sony, and Samsung, don't even like the fact that we're using these batteries because they were not intended for single cell, unprotected use in any device. The fact that they're available can be attributed to modders of flashlights, pen lasers, and bicycle electronics. A demand formed around those markets and it was filled by various folks, and then e-cigs came along and the demand skyrocketed.
Having said all of that, having knowledge of battery and mod limitations, and always using safe battery practices, using these batteries for vaping can be considered relatively safe. Just please always respect the power that are in them.
Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide
Vape Safe Mod Fuse
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?
Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries
Regulated mods have built-in protective circuitry which will automatically kick in when there is an unsafe situation such as a short and either refuse to fire or shut itself down. Mechanical mods have no protection circuits. It's just a battery and you.
Too many people are jumping into mechanical mods without understanding what they are getting into and not realizing it is not a care-free device like a Vamo or eGo. It requires more attention to details and a better understanding of all the variables. Too often people on forums say, " Mech mods are easy, just drop a battery in and make some clouds. I don't understand why others say it is not for beginners." Because if you don't understand all the things you need to watch for there is a serious chance of something possibly going wrong down the road.
Mech mods are not learning devices. They need to be understood before you begin to experiment with them. So far people have been lucky. Some people don't check the batteries they use, don't know what resistance their coils are at etc, and nothing has happened, giving a false sense of security to others to try the same things, but all it will take is one bad coil or one bad battery to change someone's face forever.
These batteries were not originally intended for what we are using them for. In fact, I have read that Panasonic, Sanyo, Sony, and Samsung, don't even like the fact that we're using these batteries because they were not intended for single cell, unprotected use in any device. The fact that they're available can be attributed to modders of flashlights, pen lasers, and bicycle electronics. A demand formed around those markets and it was filled by various folks, and then e-cigs came along and the demand skyrocketed.
Having said all of that, having knowledge of battery and mod limitations, and always using safe battery practices, using these batteries for vaping can be considered relatively safe. Just please always respect the power that are in them.
Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide
Vape Safe Mod Fuse
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?
Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries
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Thanks for posting the pics Bad. Maybe they will help get the point across about battery safety. Hope you don't mind that I copied em for future use. I work with a lot of people that don't have a clue about these things. If they can help and save just one then it is worth it.
Thanks again brother Bad!!
Bad: That's the reason I decided to ask before I jumped in head first. I know nothing about this kind of Mod, and heard that they can melt and explode if your an idiot and mess around with them without knowing what you're doing. I honestly like the look of the mech mods better. Which is what lead to my asking about them here where people could help me learn more about it before I lost a finger...or a face.
Thanks for the info thus far to everyone, keep it coming. I wanna learn everything that I can about them before I get one. No a big fan of having explosions and core meltdowns in my hand and mouth.
Thanks for the info thus far to everyone, keep it coming. I wanna learn everything that I can about them before I get one. No a big fan of having explosions and core meltdowns in my hand and mouth.
Thanks for the info bad. I had the same exact question as voodoo
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No, we're saying tempting fate by using a battery with the word "fire" in the name is a bad idea. Running a "fire" battery at 0.4Ω is like strolling up, .....-slapping Hephaestus, and running away while tittering like a school-girl.
You need to find out what the amp limit is on your battery. Then using ohms law find out what your device is using. You can google "ohms law calculator." This will give you voltage , resistance, amperage and wattage that your pulling.
It's for your own safety.
If you don't know the amp rating in continuous discharge rate of your batteries, then you should not be making 0.4 ohm coils, and using this battery. This Trustfire 18650 2900mAH battery is a protected ICR battery chemistry. The typical 18650 ICR protected battery only has a maximum CDR of no more than 5 amps. A 0.4 ohm coil will try to pull 10.5 amps from your battery.
So you are pulling WAY more amps than your battery can safely handle. You are lucky that you haven't melted your face. Just because you've gotten away with this so far is no reason to continue, as you're pressing your luck by an extreme margin.
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On a complete side note. Bad your pictures are cracking me up. That looks like my Uncle when we put loads in his tobacco. 
Do rock climbers try to buy the cheapest carabiners or rope? Would they ignore their load rating? Would they buy no-names or knock-offs from Fasttech? Why would we do these with high-power batteries that could vent in our face or burn our house down on a charger with everything we own (including pets) inside? With these batteries, the difference between the best from the most reliable source and the worst is a few dollars.
Sub-ohmming is like climbing in that it's an enjoyable hobby that can be safe, but that carries inherent risks. It's in a range where a tiny change in resistance results in a relatively large change in current. Ideally, we'd like to be able to accurately measure resistance in at least hundredths, if not thousandths of an ohm, in order to estimate current, and there's expensive lab equipment that can do that.
The less expensive, uncalibrated multimeters and ohmmeters we use, or the circuits in regulated mods, are often ± 0.1Ω in error, and can be even more than that. The coil we measure at 0.5Ω, could VERY likely be anything between 0.4Ω or 0.6Ω, and a bit less likely even higher or lower. It would be good if we know someone with access to calibrated lab equipment to compare our meters to.
Other than that, we need to leave a safety margin. With a really good mod, atty, and battery combo, we might get 4.0 volts across a mid-sub-ohm coil. Again, our quality of meter may be ±0.1V or more off. If our battery is rated at 10A, 4.0V/10A = 0.4Ω. That's why some of us stick to 0.5Ω as a measured minimum and some stay higher.
It's also why those operating in these ranges should look for a battery with higher than a 10 amp maximum continuous current rating. A climber wouldn't use a component at its maximum rating. Higher rated batteries are easy to find. The 1600 mAH AW IMR 18650 is rated 15C, or 15 x 1.6AH = 24A as a common example.
Finally, if we're going to spend a few dollars more for good batteries, it only takes a few dollars more to get a well-reputed charger to care for and get the best life from them, not to mention to avoid a fire.
Sub-ohmming is like climbing in that it's an enjoyable hobby that can be safe, but that carries inherent risks. It's in a range where a tiny change in resistance results in a relatively large change in current. Ideally, we'd like to be able to accurately measure resistance in at least hundredths, if not thousandths of an ohm, in order to estimate current, and there's expensive lab equipment that can do that.
The less expensive, uncalibrated multimeters and ohmmeters we use, or the circuits in regulated mods, are often ± 0.1Ω in error, and can be even more than that. The coil we measure at 0.5Ω, could VERY likely be anything between 0.4Ω or 0.6Ω, and a bit less likely even higher or lower. It would be good if we know someone with access to calibrated lab equipment to compare our meters to.
Other than that, we need to leave a safety margin. With a really good mod, atty, and battery combo, we might get 4.0 volts across a mid-sub-ohm coil. Again, our quality of meter may be ±0.1V or more off. If our battery is rated at 10A, 4.0V/10A = 0.4Ω. That's why some of us stick to 0.5Ω as a measured minimum and some stay higher.
It's also why those operating in these ranges should look for a battery with higher than a 10 amp maximum continuous current rating. A climber wouldn't use a component at its maximum rating. Higher rated batteries are easy to find. The 1600 mAH AW IMR 18650 is rated 15C, or 15 x 1.6AH = 24A as a common example.
Finally, if we're going to spend a few dollars more for good batteries, it only takes a few dollars more to get a well-reputed charger to care for and get the best life from them, not to mention to avoid a fire.
Okay so do the could pre made have different amp ratings? I know little about mech mods as is, but I know less than nothing about building a cool. So do I need a multimeter to test those as well? Or are they preset?
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