For all you mech mod users, why do you go with a mech over something like a DNA30/similar. I'd like to try something a bit less restrictive than my sigelei Zmax, and have been looking into both. I'm more than familiar with the electronics theory, so I'm looking for your subjective experience. One of my questions, other than all around experience, is how many vapes you get before you notice a change with dropping voltage. 10? 50? 100? I know coil builds will have a huge effect on that, but I'd like to hear your experience. Any input is appreciated!
Mech users - Why?
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For me, I went the other direction. I used to use nothing but mechs and now they sit and collect dust. I have two Hana dna 30 mods, a Hexohm (dual 18650) and an IPV V2.
I love the ability to run up to 50watts or lower for my higher ohm builds on my Kayfuns. There are tons of folks who won't go that direction, but I also know lots who have gone away from mechs too. I think once box mods start getting into 100 watt or higher, we'll see more people switching. And that's coming very quickly!!
I love the ability to run up to 50watts or lower for my higher ohm builds on my Kayfuns. There are tons of folks who won't go that direction, but I also know lots who have gone away from mechs too. I think once box mods start getting into 100 watt or higher, we'll see more people switching. And that's coming very quickly!!
I have 2 Provari Minis and a Vapor Shark rDNA. They are both stellar regulated devices, which I enjoy. I have had others, which have been handed down to new vapers.
Having noted that, I love my mechs. Personally, there is something about a well designed and crafted mech mod, whether I use a Kick with it or use it for sub ohm RDA vaping.
When using RDAs, I change the battery as soon as I noticed the flavor profile changes. I use my RDAs with my VS, as well.
Having noted that, I love my mechs. Personally, there is something about a well designed and crafted mech mod, whether I use a Kick with it or use it for sub ohm RDA vaping.
When using RDAs, I change the battery as soon as I noticed the flavor profile changes. I use my RDAs with my VS, as well.
I consider my ProVape-1 to be a mech. I like it because it is small. I don't use anything less than 2ohm coils on it and don't notice any battery drop off for quite a few puffs...
I know you can calculate the run time, but over that run time, the battery is going to drop voltage, which is going to change the wattage going through the coil, which is going to change the vape you're getting. I've been on a VW device since I started vaping, so I'm used to getting 10W from first hit to last hit.
My question was how long is it before you notice that change? Do you find yourself swapping batteries every 10-20 hits to keep the power up?
Thanks! The main reason I'm looking at the difference is for the Stillare I just picked up. I feel like it really needs dual coils to shine, but that 1.2 ohm floor on my Sigelei leaves me with giant coils and middling vapor production.
Im basically a VVmod user who in the last several months bought a number of mods.
Your question is a good one, and I can after reading reems of threads tell you what ive heard:
Why do some prefer mods:
1) They dont wear out as quick, more durable. They are kind of weather beaters.
2) They look better.
3) They are not as bulky.
4) They have a nice transition and fit to many attorneys. Some of them even have adjustable center pins for connection.
5) Subohming
Problems with mods:
You cannot adjust the voltage, so that you can modify the current to what vape you want. Plus you have no realistic idea where your battery is at until the vape gets poor.
Also I just am not a fan of having to push a button on the bottom of the tube. Its awkward. <<< Most mods are this type.
You might find it interesting that lots of mod users seem to be tempted by the new dna mod stuff. It makes sense, then they have a built in atomizer ohm reader at home. (Plus some of them I think I read, let you sub ohm down to I thought i read .5 ohm?)
If you want a vv mod that counts the vapes they got them too, the YK200 at focalecig is a new vv mod which keeps track of vapes per battery. Its a dazzler in the looks department too.
Your question is a good one, and I can after reading reems of threads tell you what ive heard:
Why do some prefer mods:
1) They dont wear out as quick, more durable. They are kind of weather beaters.
2) They look better.
3) They are not as bulky.
4) They have a nice transition and fit to many attorneys. Some of them even have adjustable center pins for connection.
5) Subohming
Problems with mods:
You cannot adjust the voltage, so that you can modify the current to what vape you want. Plus you have no realistic idea where your battery is at until the vape gets poor.
Also I just am not a fan of having to push a button on the bottom of the tube. Its awkward. <<< Most mods are this type.
You might find it interesting that lots of mod users seem to be tempted by the new dna mod stuff. It makes sense, then they have a built in atomizer ohm reader at home. (Plus some of them I think I read, let you sub ohm down to I thought i read .5 ohm?)
If you want a vv mod that counts the vapes they got them too, the YK200 at focalecig is a new vv mod which keeps track of vapes per battery. Its a dazzler in the looks department too.
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For me, on my REO with an RM2 coiled at 0.8 - 1.0 Ohms, I generally get about 12 mL of liquid per 18650. When I pull the cell, they are typically at 3.6 - 3.7 and it's too cool of a vape for me at that point. I have no idea how many toots that is but, generally speaking, a good 18650 will last me a day. I prefer the vapor and flavor production on it at 3.8 - 4.0 the best.
Definately use dual coils on the stillare. I have one and thats how it shines. I only use mechs, i have used regulated devices, but i enjoy the mechs more as a hobby. I think a lot of the decision is based on personal preference. I typically build in the low sub ohm range .4 and lower, i can get well over what most regulated mods can put out in watts. Batteries will drop off pretty fast at those resistances though which is why i have 6 batteries in rotation.
I use an Evolv Kick 2 module on my mechs when using my KayFun type devices. The Kick affords me a regulated vape just like my other regulated devices. Have not tried it for sub ohm applications, but the Kick will go down to 0.5 ohms.
With regard to dual coils, I run dual coils in an Omega, 454 big block, and a Plume Veil. The happy spot for me is around 0.6 ohms to 0.8 ohms on a mech.
I also run single coils in a Magma and a Veritas. The happy spot for me on these are at 1.5 ohms. I use these on my rDNA.
Bottom line, there is no one perfect set-up for me. I enjoy experimenting and enjoy them all. They have kept me off the cigs . . . Amen.
Not yet pointed out is the safety factor. Regulated mods have built-in protection circuitry against a short, battery over-discharge protection, and a timed fire button to prevent accidental over-discharge of a stuck fire button.
A mechanical mod has NO PROTECTION. It's all on the user to know what is going on at all times. Humans are humans and make human errors at times; a regulated mod prevents human errors from becoming a catastrophe.
A mechanical mod has NO PROTECTION. It's all on the user to know what is going on at all times. Humans are humans and make human errors at times; a regulated mod prevents human errors from becoming a catastrophe.
I have a few mech's and im pretty much over it. I change battery's 5 or 6 times a day to try and stay in zone I like to vape, and thats using a Fogger v4. I have a mvp but it doesnt put out although is reliable. I have made the jump and have most of the parts to build a 60w raptor mod. Regulation, and power I think is what Im looking for. But that has changed quickly over and over so will see how it goes.
That is a great point. I have forgot to lock my mech plenty of times and not noticed it until I felt the heat in my pocket. Always just the atty getting hot enough for me to notice and a pocket full of juice due to heat related leaking. I also had a chi you clone fire for 45 mins strait due to a tear in the battery insulator on the bottom, stupid switch design with no insulator. It leaked a full kayfun all over my keyboard and melted cotton into the insulator while taking a fresh battery down to 2.8v. Everything survived the incident but if it had been a dripper with a sub ohm coil I would have probably had a vented battery or cotton on fire.
I mainly use mech's do to the reliability factor. When I leave the house it gives me great piece of mind that my mod is nearly bullet proof. It is also nice that a clone mech is cheap to replace if I do manage to loose or destroy it. They are also nice and compact without the electronics so they fit in my pocket much better. Most battery's spend most of their charge in the 3.8-3.6v range and I build my coils in my kayfuns with that in mind, by the time I notice that the vape is weak its time to change the battery anyways. They are a little over powered for the first hour or so but that can be fixed by pulsing the firing button a little to keep the heat lower. For home use I build a dripper for a fresh battery and just change it out more often since I have access to more battery's and my chargers.
I am thinking about building a mod with a SX chip to use around the house, but for out of the house I will probably always use mech mods. The size of a mod don't really matter as much when its sitting on my coffee table. I will also have easy access to the rest of my equipment in case of a electronics failure.
How many drops and knocks can a VV or VW mod take ?
Answer: not that much.
I've been down the slippery slope of VW / VV and its cost me far less and provided me with continuous vaping satisfaction in the last 2 years of using a mech than in the previous 2 years of trial and error with oodles of other devices.
The other devices were fine until I dropped them or juice leaked in at which stage they were junk.
My only issue with mechs, in my case, is that they are quite expensive and the wait times to procure them can be quite long. I have waited as long as 7 months on 2 prepaid mechs.
I have a Provari and a 30W box mod but my preference is to use mechanical mods. I prefer the small form factor (I mostly use 18350s), I appreciate the simplicity and the fact that I can take it to bits and clean it, and I don't have to worry about electronics failing. I build my RDAs to be at 1.3ohm and I vape from about 13W on a fresh battery down to about 10W when I recharge at 3.7v. It's not regulated and that's fine with me. I can tell when my battery dips below 3.7v and I always have a pocket multimeter with me and I periodically check my voltage.
For me it is simple why i use a mech mod.
1] will never have to replace the unit due to a blown circuit board.
2] if i want the circuit protection and safety of a v/v v/w just add a kick to it.
1] will never have to replace the unit due to a blown circuit board.
2] if i want the circuit protection and safety of a v/v v/w just add a kick to it.
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