I've been vaping for a year now i went from an ego to an itaste, Than I started to hear about mechanical mods. I was told they give you all flavor and big hookah clouds is that true? I was planning on getting one just because of that so I wanted to know what are the PROS and CONS of mechanical mods? And What do you guys suggest what mechanical mod I should get as a first time mechanical mod user?
Mechanical mods? Pros and cons?
- Thread starter wutermelon
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The mod won't make the juice cloud any more or any less, it's the juice, how it's mixed and the atomizer you are using that makes the clouds!
Pro's, simple, easy to clean easy to fix and little to go wrong with them.
Con's, you are stuck with the battery you are using, meaning the voltage of the battery is all you get! As the battery dies, so do the clouds! You will have to match an atomizer to the voltage you want to run and one you find what works, you need to stick with it, which can be a hassel finding the in stock when you need them!
Most people like to use rebuildable atomizers on them (RBA's) and build coils to match the mod, I've tried this, it's not my cup of tea!
I have a couple of mechanicals, a BB and an Altoid box mod, I enjoy them, even though they aren't "true" mechanicals, but I'm not giving up VV anytime soon!
Pro's, simple, easy to clean easy to fix and little to go wrong with them.
Con's, you are stuck with the battery you are using, meaning the voltage of the battery is all you get! As the battery dies, so do the clouds! You will have to match an atomizer to the voltage you want to run and one you find what works, you need to stick with it, which can be a hassel finding the in stock when you need them!
Most people like to use rebuildable atomizers on them (RBA's) and build coils to match the mod, I've tried this, it's not my cup of tea!
I have a couple of mechanicals, a BB and an Altoid box mod, I enjoy them, even though they aren't "true" mechanicals, but I'm not giving up VV anytime soon!
Mech mods are great for low ohm rbas and rdas. If your just gonna toss a carto/clearo onto it it won't be any better than anything else. I have my k100 kicked so is basically a vw mod right now and with the 2.2 ohm coil on my RDA it works as good as my apv. Basically mech mods are good for making coils below 1.2ohm that the other mods won't allow you to fire them. K100 and kts are nice cheap mechs if you want to try one out. I have a kts flat top on the way for $19 shipped but will take a couple weeks to get here. The k100 was $24 shipped from fasttech aswell.
I was'nt planning on using mechanicals as my all day vape lol I wanted to get one to experience it. Also, you can charge to battery too right? and do you have to keep rebuilding it?
Those big clouds are coming from sub ohm coils on a mech mod that does not have any built in safety features (regulated mods will not fire coils under 1 ohm usually) I took a trip to San Diego/LA area recently and saw a bunch of this. Just remember if you go this route that you should lower your nic in the juice to almost nothing (like 2mg or less) or you will be hurting. get an RDA and build a .3 ohm coil (2/3 wrap of 28g kenthal should do that roughly) and pop it on a mech and watch out!
For me the biggest pro from a well made mechanical mod is that it's virtually indestructible.
NO, it's not true! If a mechanical mod gives off "big hookah clouds" something went terribly wrong.
Just like your iTaste a mechanical mod does nothing but supply the power. And also just like your iTaste, it's what you do with that power that will produce a huge cloud of vapor.
The benefit that a mechanical gives you is that the only amp limit is the C rating of the battery used in it.
The CON is that the voltage is adjusted only by the battery slowly going dead.
I use mechanical at 3.7 ohms with approximately 1.8 ohm clearos, etc, not RBA's. They are reliable and durable, simple to maintain and can be somewhat smaller without the need for a wired switch or electronics. The biggest con, for me, used to be that they were pretty expensive, but there are now many in the $20-40 price range.
Unregulated (mechanical):
Power is limited by the voltage of the battery (3.4 - 4.1 volts), unless a Kick (portable processor that can boost power) is added in the battery compartment.
Few if any safety features from a hard-short battery; only a collapsable hot spring and vent holes to try to contain a runaway battery. A 2 Cent Fuse or Mod Safe Fuse is a good idea to use for another layer of safety. http://www.rtdvapor.com/online-store/batteries/vapesafe2-detail
Recent popularity in use due to their ability to use sub-ohm coils on an RBA, an intentional bypass of the built-in feature that regulated mods have of refusing to fire a sub-ohm coil because of safety concerns.
Can use either protected Li Ion batteries or the Li Mn safer chemistry, high drain IMR batteries.
Simple design and function; most are quite durable in build quality. Some parts in need of repair can be replaced by the owner himself. Some of the high end expensive mechanicals are truly pieces of art in fit and finish.
Regulated (processor-controlled boost circuitry):
Processor boost circuitry allows varying the voltage/wattage up or down at the user's discretion.
Advanced built-in protection; processor can sense a dysfunction in the atomizer or battery and shut the mod down or refuse to fire to protect the atomizer, processor, battery, and the user. Will refuse to fire at less than 1.2 ohms or when battery voltage is less than 3.3 volts. Have the same physical safety features as a mech mod such as a hot spring and vent holes. Will refuse to fire if the battery is put in backwards.
Most have a built-in atomizer meter and voltage meter. Digital display screen to provide information to the user.
Most require the use of Li Mn high drain IMR batteries to produce high voltages.
___
Mod and battery safety: http://bumblevape.com/article/21/105/0/Mechanical%20Mod%20Proper%20Usage%20Guide#5
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/announcements-news/271739-emss-ecf-metal-tubemods-safety-specification.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-issues/254690-protected-batteries-vs-imr-safety-5.html
Power is limited by the voltage of the battery (3.4 - 4.1 volts), unless a Kick (portable processor that can boost power) is added in the battery compartment.
Few if any safety features from a hard-short battery; only a collapsable hot spring and vent holes to try to contain a runaway battery. A 2 Cent Fuse or Mod Safe Fuse is a good idea to use for another layer of safety. http://www.rtdvapor.com/online-store/batteries/vapesafe2-detail
Recent popularity in use due to their ability to use sub-ohm coils on an RBA, an intentional bypass of the built-in feature that regulated mods have of refusing to fire a sub-ohm coil because of safety concerns.
Can use either protected Li Ion batteries or the Li Mn safer chemistry, high drain IMR batteries.
Simple design and function; most are quite durable in build quality. Some parts in need of repair can be replaced by the owner himself. Some of the high end expensive mechanicals are truly pieces of art in fit and finish.
Regulated (processor-controlled boost circuitry):
Processor boost circuitry allows varying the voltage/wattage up or down at the user's discretion.
Advanced built-in protection; processor can sense a dysfunction in the atomizer or battery and shut the mod down or refuse to fire to protect the atomizer, processor, battery, and the user. Will refuse to fire at less than 1.2 ohms or when battery voltage is less than 3.3 volts. Have the same physical safety features as a mech mod such as a hot spring and vent holes. Will refuse to fire if the battery is put in backwards.
Most have a built-in atomizer meter and voltage meter. Digital display screen to provide information to the user.
Most require the use of Li Mn high drain IMR batteries to produce high voltages.
___
Mod and battery safety: http://bumblevape.com/article/21/105/0/Mechanical%20Mod%20Proper%20Usage%20Guide#5
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/announcements-news/271739-emss-ecf-metal-tubemods-safety-specification.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-issues/254690-protected-batteries-vs-imr-safety-5.html
Last edited:
Mechanical Mod Pro's...
No electronics to fail
Drop one in the mud... take it apart, hose it out, let dry & back to vaping.
More (by a long shot) reliable.
Will stand up much better to harsh conditions/use.
Most have a locking fire button making them pocket friendly.
They are cheaper (not counting rare hard to get ones).
Cons...
There are NO safety measures. It is a tube with a battery in it, nothing else!
The output voltage is only what is in the battery. As the battery voltage drops so does vapor production.
Both of these can be overcome with the use of a Kick or Stomp. (Which adds several safety measures. Over/under voltage & short circuit protection)
Recommendations...
Really depends on how you want to use it. ie. at home only, night out, work ect...
I carry a K100 (Kicked) to work everyday and have never had a problem with it. Best $23.24 I've spent. Fastech has them if you're willing to wait a couple weeks.
I just got a Sigelei #19e, which after polishing it, is awesome.
That's on the low end/cheap.
On the higher end...
The Precise ELA from Super T Manufacturing. (Made in the USA)
or maybe a hybrid?
Vapor Craze Noble 1 Hybrid
There are hundreds of mechs out there.
Basically I look at how easy it is to lock/unlock the fire button.
If I have to "look" to find it or know it's locked... I'll pass. (unless it's going to be a stay at home mod)
How well is it made. Does it have a gold hot spring, brass or copper connections.
Then when I find one I think might do, I'll watch SEVERAL reviews on it. One should never make a decision on one persons opinion.
This not only gives you a better idea of how it works & someones opinion of it. But, it gives you a better idea of the size & how it will fit your hand/pocket.
Anyway...
as others have said, if you're looking for billowing clouds of vapor....
Just learn how to build low ohm attys SAFELY. There IS a learning curve, so PLEASE don't try to skip it!
No electronics to fail
Drop one in the mud... take it apart, hose it out, let dry & back to vaping.
More (by a long shot) reliable.
Will stand up much better to harsh conditions/use.
Most have a locking fire button making them pocket friendly.
They are cheaper (not counting rare hard to get ones).
Cons...
There are NO safety measures. It is a tube with a battery in it, nothing else!
The output voltage is only what is in the battery. As the battery voltage drops so does vapor production.
Both of these can be overcome with the use of a Kick or Stomp. (Which adds several safety measures. Over/under voltage & short circuit protection)
Recommendations...
Really depends on how you want to use it. ie. at home only, night out, work ect...
I carry a K100 (Kicked) to work everyday and have never had a problem with it. Best $23.24 I've spent. Fastech has them if you're willing to wait a couple weeks.
I just got a Sigelei #19e, which after polishing it, is awesome.
That's on the low end/cheap.
On the higher end...
The Precise ELA from Super T Manufacturing. (Made in the USA)
or maybe a hybrid?
Vapor Craze Noble 1 Hybrid
There are hundreds of mechs out there.
Basically I look at how easy it is to lock/unlock the fire button.
If I have to "look" to find it or know it's locked... I'll pass. (unless it's going to be a stay at home mod)
How well is it made. Does it have a gold hot spring, brass or copper connections.
Then when I find one I think might do, I'll watch SEVERAL reviews on it. One should never make a decision on one persons opinion.
This not only gives you a better idea of how it works & someones opinion of it. But, it gives you a better idea of the size & how it will fit your hand/pocket.
Anyway...
as others have said, if you're looking for billowing clouds of vapor....
Just learn how to build low ohm attys SAFELY. There IS a learning curve, so PLEASE don't try to skip it!
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