Mechanical not for sub ohm help!

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Traver

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I'm definitely going to try these out! There will be times I'm stuck at work up to 16+ hours if we have a mill go down. My only question is being it has higher mah would it stay in a optimal voltage (I dunno how else to say it) before the battery got weaker and started losing vapor?

At 7 watts yes it would. If you are pushing the battery enough to be near it's continuous discharge rating then it's internal resistance goes up and it may go down to 3.2 volts. After resting a while it go back to normal.
Under these conditions a battery with a higher continuous discharge rating will give better performance and a longer run-time. Even with a lower milliamp rating.
 
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ph0kused

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If that's too much power (burnt juice), you can use a 2.5ohm coil and bring it down to 7.06 watts at 1.68 amps (fully charged, will drop as the battery's voltage drops).

My k100 I ran Panasonic CGR18650CH's almost exclusively, you'll be fine - go into a local brick & mortar vape shop and buy a battery for your device. There's a lot of users screaming caution with batteries, which is fine, but since you're running clearomizers at the 2.0 - 2.5ohm range, dont worry you'll be good.

I own 6 Panasonic (Grey-colored) CGR18650CH's and I ran those on my k100 - personal experience here with that mod, and those batteries = two thumbs up!
You will burn juice at mostly all resistances... dont be fooled.

2.5ohm coils will give you slightly longer battery cycles. But you can burn juice on a 3.0 ohm coil as well... Then again you can run dual .8ohm coils and not burn juice too...

Coils are coils, they need to be replcaed be at peace with it! :cool:

If you worry about burning juice, it'll be a loosing battle. I prefer .5ohm - .9 ohm setups (RDAs), depending on the atomizer, but then again I also use a standard 1.2ohm setup in my RSST atomizer.. some resistances work better with some atomizers, all depends on the atomizer and your personal preference.

The k100 was my first mod too - I loved the crap out of it! a K100 and an Ithaka atomizer lol. I eventually got a Vanilla mod, loved the design. But my k100 is a work horse, such a great buy for how cheap it! K100 + IGO-W is the ultimate "budget RDA build".

That IGO-W is such a nice atomizer for being $14.00... Good luck into your journey into vaping! Stay off those ciggies!
 
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AttyPops

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IDK what type of mill? What are the regulations about heat sources/sparks if any?

If for outside use....any PV would do. If inside....dust.......boom? May depend on what you're milling.
Note that e-cigs don't have a flame. But there can be a spark with a mech button in particular. Also a glowing coil. Probably more worrisom with vapors than anything. Temps are cooler than, say, smoking.

Just wondering......
 

Rickajho

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Can we back up and run over this again about what your concerns are?

In a rough environment any mech will probably survive a fall - but anything you put on top of it won't play nicely with hitting concrete. Especially all the posts about combining a mech with a glass anything on top.

I know you mentioned you wanted to minimize battery changing. But do you really want to combine that with the hassles of a dripping atty at work? :blink:

That leads to +27 for a Reo liquid feed. You could throw it across a shop floor and not hurt it. And if you do drop it the worst you might do is break a drip tip. Drop the largest capacity battery in there you can find, combined with a 6 ml liquid capacity that isn't exposed to being damaged - I can't think of anything more convenient or less likely to get busted up in a rough environment.
 

Caridwen

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Can we back up and run over this again about what your concerns are?

In a rough environment any mech will probably survive a fall - but anything you put on top of it won't play nicely with hitting concrete. Especially all the posts about combining a mech with a glass anything on top.

I know you mentioned you wanted to minimize battery changing. But do you really want to combine that with the hassles of a dripping atty at work? :blink:

That leads to +27 for a Reo liquid feed. You could throw it across a shop floor and not hurt it. And if you do drop it the worst you might do is break a drip tip. Drop the largest capacity battery in there you can find, combined with a 6 ml liquid capacity that isn't exposed to being damaged - I can't think of anything more convenient or less likely to get busted up in a rough environment.

True.
 

Rickajho

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It's more expensive than what your talking about but a Reo is basically a steel box that's pretty indestructible. A member's horse stepped on it and it was fine. And the liquid is enclosed.

Might be something to think about down the road.

Technically it's a block of aluminum. (That might not go over so well where this guy works...)
 

salagahle2000

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Credo

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I don't think you can run a kick+18650 in a K-101 or 100. Just throwing that out there.

This is true.

I currently run a Crown 2.0 with it's included VapeSafe PTC fuse and an 18500 IMR in my K100 with aluminum Vivi Nova tanks (2.5 Ohm self made coils/wicks) when I'm 'on the go'. I also have a few 18350 IMR cells that work fine in it with the Crown.

It's the lightest mech setup I have.

The nice thing about the Crown is that I don't have to open the mod and tap out the Crown to make adjustments. You can adjust it with the fire button of the mod.

If you get a Crown, be careful not to twist the K100 together too tight...it can be crushed easier than the Evolv, Smoktech and Segelie Kicks.

If you want to kick an 18650, one inexpensive mod I know of that comes with the kick ring are the Nemisis Clones. These are probably going to be a bit more expensive than the K100 at this time. They're nice tho'. In my HCigar Nemisis Clone I use 18650 Hybrid type high drain batteries with the Evolv Kick 2, or regular 18650 IMR 30A cells when not using the kick.

The Kick 2 works great in this mod because it's quite a bit more powerful than the Crown, and the Nemisis is built in a way that makes it really easy to get to the Kick's adjustment pot in the top.
 
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