We have a thread where we've been discussing those things. In your spare time, read this:
Titanium wire, vaping and safety | E-Cigarette Forum
Titanium wire, vaping and safety | E-Cigarette Forum
Mechanized Vaper Looking to Add a VV/VW to The Armory
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Awesome. Thanks for the link. Will read and study up.
Just ordered the SX.
Believe it or not, I'm done.
Have a great Day.
Just ordered the SX.
Believe it or not, I'm done.
Have a great Day.
Holy Dookie and What a Mind Blowing and Addling Read that was!
Anyways, so glad you suggested and equally as glad I read it all (began to Skim & Scan after page 21 up till page 64).
Informative and Fun to watch the quick Intro, Evolution, R&D, and eventual Assimilation of Ti into vaping. Like watching the Next Big Thing unfold before the eyes...
My end take from all the Input & Experiences was and will be for me;
28-26 ga Ti Wire (depending on the rda/RTA I am building).
Definitely obtain from a PROVEN Source of Grade 1 Ti.
Clean the Wire with Isopropyl thoroughly and OK to use a fine Sandpaper or a plastic type Kitchen Scrub to aid pre-cleaning. NO SOS type metallic stuff.
Steam Engine is applicable and acceptable to use as a Baseline Guide for Builds but may vary so continue to personally Check All Carefully & Fully as always.
*for me with a Target of @ .4 Ohm on Single Coil will Baseline at 7-9 Wraps on a 2.5mm Mandrel/Bit/Screw depending on whether 26 or 28 ga requirement.
Dry Pulse firing is not needed nor desired and can be counter-productive to say the least.
Slight pre-Heating with Torch to firm and remove some of the "springiness" is OK and can be advantageous if done carefully. However, not absolutely necessary. To each-their own.
Compressed Coils not desired and can be problematic and Issue causing not to mention destructive even IF such can be achieved at all.
Spaced (slightly) Coils are preferred and actually help prevent possible Oxidation and Issues with kicking in and out of TC Mode.
Forget about striving for resulting Coil being "Pretty", 100% Uniform, and/or Dressed. Close as possible is the Goal and desirable, but not necessary or required.
Wick as any other Wire Coil depending on the Preferred & Chosen Wick Material and the RDA/RTA at hand.
After a few Uses in normal Vaping, check closely for abnormal discoloration (still a tad unsure on what's "Abnormal" so will re-read for that) and Form.
If Device is not equipped or upgraded to Ti Compatible Firmware, Start at around 290* F and 30 Joules (?) and go up on Temp from there until maximized Vape & Flavor are achieved. Do not exceed 400* F. *Hopefully the Ti Upgrade will be complete and released for the SX Mini prior to my first build and assist greatly in that or eliminate the Concern all together.
The rest,,, Just have to take the Wait & See, Learn & Adapt Approach as the actual Builds and Vapes unfold.
Did I miss anything?
Anyways, so glad you suggested and equally as glad I read it all (began to Skim & Scan after page 21 up till page 64).
Informative and Fun to watch the quick Intro, Evolution, R&D, and eventual Assimilation of Ti into vaping. Like watching the Next Big Thing unfold before the eyes...
My end take from all the Input & Experiences was and will be for me;
28-26 ga Ti Wire (depending on the rda/RTA I am building).
Definitely obtain from a PROVEN Source of Grade 1 Ti.
Clean the Wire with Isopropyl thoroughly and OK to use a fine Sandpaper or a plastic type Kitchen Scrub to aid pre-cleaning. NO SOS type metallic stuff.
Steam Engine is applicable and acceptable to use as a Baseline Guide for Builds but may vary so continue to personally Check All Carefully & Fully as always.
*for me with a Target of @ .4 Ohm on Single Coil will Baseline at 7-9 Wraps on a 2.5mm Mandrel/Bit/Screw depending on whether 26 or 28 ga requirement.
Dry Pulse firing is not needed nor desired and can be counter-productive to say the least.
Slight pre-Heating with Torch to firm and remove some of the "springiness" is OK and can be advantageous if done carefully. However, not absolutely necessary. To each-their own.
Compressed Coils not desired and can be problematic and Issue causing not to mention destructive even IF such can be achieved at all.
Spaced (slightly) Coils are preferred and actually help prevent possible Oxidation and Issues with kicking in and out of TC Mode.
Forget about striving for resulting Coil being "Pretty", 100% Uniform, and/or Dressed. Close as possible is the Goal and desirable, but not necessary or required.
Wick as any other Wire Coil depending on the Preferred & Chosen Wick Material and the RDA/RTA at hand.
After a few Uses in normal Vaping, check closely for abnormal discoloration (still a tad unsure on what's "Abnormal" so will re-read for that) and Form.
If Device is not equipped or upgraded to Ti Compatible Firmware, Start at around 290* F and 30 Joules (?) and go up on Temp from there until maximized Vape & Flavor are achieved. Do not exceed 400* F. *Hopefully the Ti Upgrade will be complete and released for the SX Mini prior to my first build and assist greatly in that or eliminate the Concern all together.
The rest,,, Just have to take the Wait & See, Learn & Adapt Approach as the actual Builds and Vapes unfold.
Did I miss anything?
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Aha! I'll be damned.... I was watching Pbusardos Review and saw the YiHi Release and Explanation of "Joules vs. Watts" Concept.
I actually Get It. It makes Sense. With that, I feel confident in using the Joules Settings in conjunction with the Temp Settings. I am pretty sure I understand the Correlation now. Not as "complicated" as I led myself to believe. Adjusting the Vapor Produced/Consumed as opposed to the Power Input. It Makes Sense.
If correct in the above, I do honestly think the Concept of Joules and corresponding Input will allow me to Dial-In my desired Vape better.
Go figure....
Now if I can just get an accurate and firm grasp of building with Ti, be awesome and will be quite happy I decided to delve into the TC Stuff and especially having chosen the SX Mini M & the YiHi board.
Time alone shall tell.
I do realize this Thread is becoming somewhat of a "Diary" of this Journey. No matter, please anyone chime in to correct or add at any time.
Hopefully, this will result in a decent Guide for future Members should they choose to begin the same type Quest. If so, it should help them to avoid some Trepidation and from being overly cautious and Over-Thinking as I was. As most are when it comes to Change and moving forward away from the previous Knowns and associated "Comfort" of Norms, Practices and Understandings.
I actually Get It. It makes Sense. With that, I feel confident in using the Joules Settings in conjunction with the Temp Settings. I am pretty sure I understand the Correlation now. Not as "complicated" as I led myself to believe. Adjusting the Vapor Produced/Consumed as opposed to the Power Input. It Makes Sense.
If correct in the above, I do honestly think the Concept of Joules and corresponding Input will allow me to Dial-In my desired Vape better.
Go figure....
Now if I can just get an accurate and firm grasp of building with Ti, be awesome and will be quite happy I decided to delve into the TC Stuff and especially having chosen the SX Mini M & the YiHi board.
Time alone shall tell.
I do realize this Thread is becoming somewhat of a "Diary" of this Journey. No matter, please anyone chime in to correct or add at any time.
Hopefully, this will result in a decent Guide for future Members should they choose to begin the same type Quest. If so, it should help them to avoid some Trepidation and from being overly cautious and Over-Thinking as I was. As most are when it comes to Change and moving forward away from the previous Knowns and associated "Comfort" of Norms, Practices and Understandings.
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The color you don't want with ti is gray (dull, chalky looking). Otherwise, by George, I think you got it 
Thanks for the clarification on "Abnormal" or "Bad" Color after Vaping (Wet Firing) a few times.
We shall see on the Got It or not but liking the Odds at this point.
We shall see on the Got It or not but liking the Odds at this point.
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I heard that the shorting problem with the IPV4 was only with the all black model and was just on the 1st production run, then they fixed it. I just go one and love it. I really don't want to pull the board because I hear it also disconnects the USB from the board so no upgrades. Have I heard wrong?
I've read P4U has removed the charging board for the most recent ones. So now my recommendation would be to buy the most recent ipv4 that does not have a charge port.
The charging board and USB are two seperate things. The USB port is only used for updates. It is not a charging port.
The charging board and USB are two seperate things. The USB port is only used for updates. It is not a charging port.
Yeah. I figured that out after I posted. Unfortunately, I did not get the new version. 
As soon as the warranty expires, I'll crack it open and rip that thing out of there.
As soon as the warranty expires, I'll crack it open and rip that thing out of there.- Status
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