What are the differences in a 3.7v/6v, Regulated 5v and a VV? I know that with the VV you can adjust the voltage and all, but I am having a hard time understanding the advantage of the options. I'm sure that this has been asked before, but I have not found the link for it. If it has and you know where to find it please let me know and I will check that out. Or if you just want to help a dude understand by typing it all out again that is fine too. Thanks in advance!
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You have to balance the volts against the resistance of the atty/carto. 3.7v runs well with LR(1.5-2.5ohms)
Higher voltage units require higher resistance attys. (3-4ohm).
Beyond that, it's about flavor, and personal preference.
Higher voltage units require higher resistance attys. (3-4ohm).
Beyond that, it's about flavor, and personal preference.
With unregulated devices when you take your batteries off the charger and put them in your PV, they're going to produce around 4.2 v each. As they get used the voltage will drop until the protection circuit cuts in which is usually around 3.2 v. So you continuously lose voltage from the time you start using a battery until it's removed and recharged.
With regulated units such as vv or 5 v, an electronic circuit keeps the voltage constant. Most use 2 batteries in series that also start out at about 4.2 v for a total of 8.4 v. But the circuit reduces the voltage output down to whatever the electronics tell it to. There are some circiuits that turn the unused power into heat, and others that don't which are evercool. There are also booster circuits that increase the voltage from a single cell to make it higher, however using Ohm's law, the amperage will be reduced to accomodate this type of circuit when used at higher voltages, although it's not likely to be a problem. But the advantage is that the voltage remains constant throughout the charge cycle of the batterie(s).
With regulated units such as vv or 5 v, an electronic circuit keeps the voltage constant. Most use 2 batteries in series that also start out at about 4.2 v for a total of 8.4 v. But the circuit reduces the voltage output down to whatever the electronics tell it to. There are some circiuits that turn the unused power into heat, and others that don't which are evercool. There are also booster circuits that increase the voltage from a single cell to make it higher, however using Ohm's law, the amperage will be reduced to accomodate this type of circuit when used at higher voltages, although it's not likely to be a problem. But the advantage is that the voltage remains constant throughout the charge cycle of the batterie(s).
I often describe the difference as "oomph" factor. Kinda the difference between big engines and smaller engines in cars. The larger voltages let you accelerate faster, the lower voltages are the "long slow drags" and the middle is the middle. They'll all get you to 70 mph tho. Just a matter of how quickly. This is still somewhat true regardless of wattage (as determined by atty ohms). So LR with 3.x volts is close to, but not exactly the same as, 5 volt with 3.0 ish ohms.
So it's mostly about watts... and you can vary that by varying the ohms. However, more volts just has more "punch" even at close to the same wattage. And, of course, the atty type and construction is a factor too. Lots of variables.
So it's mostly about watts... and you can vary that by varying the ohms. However, more volts just has more "punch" even at close to the same wattage. And, of course, the atty type and construction is a factor too. Lots of variables.
I don't agree with this. Many of us use 1.5 - 2.8 ohm attys/cartos with 5 volt and variable volt models.
Wolfman, a good 5 volt or variable volt model will always provide warmer vapor which better simulates the real thing and is one part of better throat hit (inhaled feel of smoking).
A regulated model helps keep the power level constant as the batteries drain. Higher end models, such as the variable watt Darwin also use "boost circuit" technology that keeps the battery at full power through out the charge time of the battery and provides the best consistency along with outstanding battery life (21 - 35 hours on a charge). This is one of the primary reasons so many of us go to higher end models. They provide warmer vapor and much more consistency that your unregulated 3.7 volt models do not. Once that small 3.7 volt battery has been vaped for 15 - 20 minutes, it is no longer at full power and the vaping experience is diminished.
I wouldn't suggest 1.5 ohm atties/cartos be used at 5V. This is because it is drawing to much amps and will easily pop the coil or burn the filler material if it's a carto. Ohm's Law cannot be defied. Only if the carto is a 1.5 dual coil atomizer then it can be used at 5V. Since there are two 3ohm coils in there. That can handle the power that is being passed through them in higher voltages.
Generally, I agree with you. I use 2.0 - 2.8 at 5 volts and 1.5 dual coils at around 4.5 - 4.8 volts.
YOU GUYS ROCK!! All of that makes a ton of sense. Being a nerd Ohm's law was speaking my language Washvape! Thanks for the help...much less confusing.
After reading this . Does a VV unit really make a difference ? Is the taste different TH , Heat ? Been on ego t for little over a week and I am constantly on it. gets hot I switch back and forth Tank , atty , carto. I guess I get them hot and start to taste nasty spin on something else. Would a VV help ?
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