Mod question

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TankHeaven

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Nov 8, 2013
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Hello
I'm quite new to this with mechanical mods, I have an EA mod with a kick.
Is the kick enough safety or should I use a fuse at the same time.
I use Aw and Efest IMR batteries, if I dont use the kick or a fuse what exactly happenes
if I get a short? Is the battery going to explode and my hand is blowing away or
Do I get some burnt fingers?
 

EddardinWinter

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Jun 13, 2012
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Hello
I'm quite new to this with mechanical mods, I have an EA Mod with a kick.
Is the kick enough safety or should I use a fuse at the same time.
I use Aw and Efest IMR batteries, if I dont use the kick or a fuse what exactly happenes
if I get a short? Is the battery going to explode and my hand is blowing away or
Do I get some burnt fingers?

What ohms are you vaping at?
What AW and eFest are you using 18350? 18490? etc.

Check out this blog, by the venerable Baditude...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/baditude/4848-9-battery-basics-mods-imr-protected.html

If the amps of your set up exceeds the CDR for the batteries, you are headed for trouble. IMR batteries won't blow up or catch fire, however, they simply vent and fail without explosions or chemical fires.
 

Steam Turbine

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The kick provides enough safety on it's own.

If you get a short without using some kind of electronic protection, the battery will rapidly over heat. IMR batteries have the reputation of being "safer" than others under short circuit condition. They (IMR batteries) will usually get extremely hot but won't explode or vent like other ICR batteries, but it can happen. If you ever feel your mod getting extremely hot, remove the battery asap place it in a fireproof area and inspect you mech for melted insulation rings etc... \

EDIT: Keep a close eye on your battery, measure it after the incident, if it is below 2.5ish volts I would dispose of them right then and there. After charge, measure them again and if they are not exactly at 4.2 volts, dispose of them.

 
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Baditude

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:thumb: +1 for using a high-quality, safe-chemistry, high-drain battery like AW and Efest IMR's.

:thumb: +2 for using a Kick. The Kick does offer some electronic circuitry protection like a Vape Safe Mod Fuse and like a regulated mod would have.

You don't have to use a Vape Safe if you use a Kick in a mechanical mod, but using one would give you an additional layer of safety, which is a good thing.

If you don't use either a Kick or a Vape Safe fuse, your setup essentially has NO protection against a short in the battery, atomizer, or the mod itself. Many mechanical mods no longer use a collapsable hot spring, which "may" stop a hot battery from going into thermal runaway, but I've personally experienced one fail in my mechanical mod which allowed a protected battery to go into thermal runaway.

Trustfire2.jpg

Should a battery go into thermal runaway, it's difficult to predict what the results will be. It may be only that the battery get very hot and vents gas slowly. Or, it could vent flames and possibly explode.

It's important that the mod you are using has vent holes to allow the escape of the hot gases. If not, the gases can build up in pressure very quickly and allow your mod to become a pipe bomb. Keep in mind that when a battery goes thermal, its contents can swell, blocking off the vent holes.

Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?

IMR_battery_post-venting.jpgbattery-fire.jpgbattery_failure.jpg
 
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Traver

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The kick will stop the current from going to you battery if there is short in the carto or PV. It will not prevent a thermal runaway from an internal short in a damaged battery or from the battery over heating by vaping above it's discharge rating. So yes it helps but it is far from perfect.
It is still up to you to learn when to take those batteries off your mod before they are damaged and to know when they are damaged. With a mechanical you really do need to learn about how maintain lithium batteries. At the very least that means getting a multimeter and learning how to use it.
At least you are using IMR battery's which are inherently safer in the sense that they will vent or burn less violently than Cobalt li-ion cells.

Once a battery is damaged it can go off any time. While vaping, charging or just sitting somewhere. So yes you might burn you fingers or you might burn your house down. The chances of anything happening with a little bit of knowledge and care are small but they do exist.
 

AttyPops

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A true short is 0 ohms. Thus, max possible (theoretical infinite) amps (even above battery rating)...basically whatever the battery can dump as fast as it can because there's no resistance.

Hence a measure of protection.

One of the best protections is to use the locking button when you put the mod down. Also, don't keep pressing the button if "nothing happens".

Fuse looks good to me. Probably fine for most....5 amp limit and resettable too. IDK much about it though. Says "all it needs is a short cool down period to reset." Hmmmm.
 

TankHeaven

Full Member
Nov 8, 2013
9
3
Finland
Thanks Traver and AttyPops.
So if I understand this right the fuse or kick is safety for the atomizer and pv problems.
I vape within 7-8 watts so that should be quite safe for the batteries, probably 2-2,3 amp on the batteries.
I always check my resistans on my vamo, and also check the battery power with the vamo,
I have batteryboxes for all batteries, so if I keep the batteries in god condition, it should be quite safe
to use a mech mod.
 

Traver

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Thanks Traver and AttyPops.
So if I understand this right the fuse or kick is safety for the atomizer and pv problems.
I vape within 7-8 watts so that should be quite safe for the batteries, probably 2-2,3 amp on the batteries.
I always check my resistans on my vamo, and also check the battery power with the vamo,
I have batteryboxes for all batteries, so if I keep the batteries in god condition, it should be quite safe
to use a mech mod.

Right on!!
 
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