Modding the GLV2 to handle Rebuildables

[reworked]

Lately I've had this idea come to light:

Add a Switch inside the headcap, to bypass the resistor allowing for on-the-fly mode-switching from 5v to 3.7v for use with a Rebuildable Atomizer.

A few things should be noted:

- The entire point of doing this is to have the liberty to use a Rebuildable atomizer on the GLV 2 5v (resisted).

The reasons why we cant:
a) Stacked batteries are very dangerous when used with Rebuildables.
b) GLV2 5v contains a resistor. The required 3.7v long battery needed for this would be resisted, thus, not sending enough power to the coil.
c) An obvious and potentially dangerous issue with this design derives in the mechanics:

By simply adding a switch on the unit allowing the bypass of the resistor, this enables the user to accidentally leave the switch ON (unresisted) and could result in a mismatch of use of equipment; possible outcomes include 'burning up' atomizers/cartomizers/coils/tanks, wicks; or even worse, attempting to misuse stacked batteries with Rebuildables, LR, or other equipment causing damage or personal injury.

- The science is simple, but it's absolutely NOT fool-proof. Mismatch or misuse of atomizers, cartomizers, tanks, coils, etc & batteries could lead to serious damage or personal injury. This mod will work, in theory. But is very dangerous, and if you must, attempt at your own risk.


So here's the plan:
Add a switch with connections at either end of the resistor, allowing, when ON, to bypass the resistor completely.

Here's the science:
Electricity flows in the path of least resistance. If there is a bridge (switch) on either end of a resistor, current is destined to flow through the switch, & into the unit at battery voltage.

And here's the catch:

Mismatch or misuse of equipment (atomizer, cartomizer, tank, coil, etc) & batteries could lead to serious damage or injury. Do NOT attempt to use your regular (5v) equipment while the switch is ON (bypassing the resistor.) When in this No-Res mode, the resistance has changed and you need to re-verify that your equipment is appropriate for a no resistance setting. Be sure to swap equipment & change from stacked batteries (7.4v, total) to a single 3.7v protected battery before 'firing' the unit again.

This design includes a mostly plastic micro-switch with connections that will be soldered to either end of the resistor [or along the wire on either end.] The switch will sit along with the resistor, next to the positive battery terminal [from the button] inside the headcap. This forces the user to disassemble their unit to change modes, encouraging them to change their batteries and equipment at the same time.


In conclusion, you'll be able to simply swap your batteries, flip a switch, and be enabled to use a Rebuildable atomizer with the GLV2, safely. Although, you may need to buy a 510 - 510 adapter to get your Rebuildable atomizer to clear the stock GLV button. (Yes, I said stock.) Needless to say, I will be building this mod in the next couple days, and I've already contacted Jay about the idea and he seems pretty interested. Penny for your thoughts?

-Reworked
10/3/14

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Why not just build coils for the rba that work within the operating range of the power device.
Or, use a power device that is suitable for the ohm range of coils you intend to use.

 

[Warpigs]

Welcome to ECF!

 

[reworked]

Why not just build coils for the rba that work within the operating range of the power device.
Or, use a power device that is suitable for the ohm range of coils you intend to use.

The problem with that is as stated above, stacked batteries are very dangerous when used with a rebuildable, regardless of how you build your coil. When stacked, batteries may discharge out of sync with each other, & have the potential to pass voltage unevenly, heating up quickly, which may result in serious damage to your unit or personal injury. Its well-known that you should absolutely NOT use stacked batteries with a rebuildable atomizer, regardless of how you build your coil. Hence why every Mod uses a single 3.7 volt battery without a resistor. Interestingly enough, this is the initial thought in which sparked this controversy: How can I get this to work, safely.

Welcome to ECF!

Thank you!


-Reworked

 

[nyiddle]

Sounds dangerous and pointless.

Its well-known that you should absolutely NOT use stacked batteries with a rebuildable atomizer

As far as I know, you should avoid stacked batteries regardless of if you're using a tank or a RDA.

 

[reworked]

Sounds dangerous and pointless.

As far as I know, you should avoid stacked batteries regardless of if you're using a tank or a RDA.

This is true. Stacked batteries can always be dangerous. The reason why Jay prefers these in his units is to reach 5v. With this I know the common practice is to use an Atomizer. I do.

Accordingly, It isn't looking promising I will getting much insight from anyone here. That's a shame.

As dangerous and pointless as it seems to you, its been a goal of mine to safely use a Rebuildable on the GLV without forfeiting any equipment (with the exception of the battery.) Its a satisfying challenge to successfully modify the unit in such a manner (to me). Of course, this mod is not practical for everybody and should NOT be attempted by anyone without extended knowledge of the mechanics and electric properties of the GLV. Most would much rather spend the $30 on a new mod that just works, while being as intuitive as i am, I find interest in constructing and modifying the equipment myself, personalizing my unit. More importantly, I do this because I can. And not everyone sees the light in this.


-Reworked

 

[reworked]

Just an Update: Picked up a micromini switch with a two way setting. The size is just right for the headcap. The switch's center lead fits perfectly above the batteries when soldered directly to the lead of the GLV's button. I've figured out how to dismantle the brass 510 fitting to connect new wire. Assembled, and realized I forgot the button nut to hold it in place. Tested it, fired near 5v on the resisted setting and around 7.3 on bypass. Dismantled to replace button nut, & broke a lead on the resistor taking it back apart. Wired it straight (without a resistor) for now. Using one battery, of course. Ultimately satisfied knowing it will all fit and work well. Will be putting back together once the resistors come in.