Modifying a PANZER clone to work better

[Huntersgreen66]

BLUF: I will show you what I look for in a Panzer clone to purchase, how to fix that “Adjustable 510 pin” that doesn’t want to move, how to fix the bottom firing switch assembly so that it doesn’t unscrew from the body all the time, as well as fixing the firing switch cap itself from unscrewing inside the assembly all the time when being used as well.
Background: These are my observations, and opinions – Not an endorsement or “critique” of any particular manufacture or vendor in regards to PANZER clones. Use proper safety when dealing with power tools.
Fist here are some examples of what I look for in a Panzer clone when shopping. Below are several examples of Panzer clone TOPs with “adjustable pins” by various manufactures:


The above “unknown brand” of clone can be modified so that its pin will slide in and out nicely, as well as fixing the firing button assembly to work better.



Above is another brand of clone, showing the top with its pin (in the photo the battery adjustment screw is screwed all the way in) as well as a good view of its firing button assembly. This is the style of top and firing assembly I prefer. This brand, design, or type of manufacture is what I look for in a vendors photos when I shop for a Panzer clone. If the vendor doesn’t have good detail photos, or good description of the features of the clone - there might be a reason.



Above is a 26650 Panzer Clone manufactured with what I prefer to have in a top pin, as well as a good looking firing button assembly. This example is another clone I would buy. (Zooming in on this picture - you can see the threads are smooth, shinny, with little to no “machining chatter”.)



Above is another brand of Panzer clone that has a “spring loaded” top pin; this design work sometimes...Other times the spring “weakens”, or even collapses. I stay away from this brand of clone.


ONWARD -Let’s fix that “stuck pin” in the top so you can adjust it; so it can be slid in/out to make contact with your atty’s pin, and then adjust the screw to make contact with the battery properly – the way it was designed to work.


You will need a hand drill, a small ....... file, a 4mm diameter item with a flat surface (to use as a punch), and a hammer to tap on the punch.

First remove the battery from the MOD and put the top back on. Using the “punch” and the hammer - tap out the pin through the top. Below you can see what I am using for my punch to remove this pin. The pins often take a good “smack” to get the pin out the first time.



Take the top off, and remove the pin from the MOD. Next you are going to file down the pins body first, then file down its shoulder if needed.
(more to follow..)

 

[Huntersgreen66]

Ok you have the Pin out of the top and out of your MOD. Below is the pin detail

Below you can see that I have placed the pins shoulder in the drills chuck, don’t over tighten the chuck or you can dent/deform a copper pin. Turn on your drill, then use the ....... file to turn down the pins body a little.

Below I show how I take the top and check the pins fit; still to tight? File off a little more. I remove a little material at a time until I get a “snug fit”- such that I can push the top on/off by hand. I don’t recommend holding the top and pressing it onto the turning pin!

Take the pin out of the drill and confirm you can insert/remove the pin by hand into the top – at least to its shoulder. Some shoulders don’t need any filing, most need some filing as well so they fit into the top with hand pressure alone.

Below you can see how I put the pins body in the drill chuck and then file down the shoulder so that it fits the top (use the same fitting process as you just did with the pins body to verify fitting.)

The pin should now fit into the top so that you can adjust it by hand. In the next section we modify the firing button assembly

 

[Huntersgreen66]

Now we turn our attention to the firing button assembly. Tobeco brand – (an example of their firing button assembly is on the left in the below photo) – they make a good clone. Some of their firing assemblies - the brass part has 2 flats so that a wrench could be used to snug it up against the MOD body.

The example on the right of the above photo is the style of firing button assembly I prefer in a clone. The Tobeco with the flats is an “OK” design, however they didn’t provide a wrench with their MOD’s. You would have to make your own wrench to not only fit the flats, then you had to “thin” the wrench material down so you could fit it into the assembly to be able to snug it up; (see the below photo showing this narrow gap for wrench usage.) After all that work you now get to carry that wrench along with you to service the mod. This design addressed the assembly loosing up problem (provided you had a wrench), but it didn’t address the firing buttons retention cap coming loose through use though. Tobeco does make a decent clone, and reading the rest of this will show how to fix there clones as well.

Here is what I do to my clones to be able to snug up the firing switch assemblies – (see below photo) I use a drimel tool with an abrasive cutoff wheel to cut a “notch” into the “ring collar” of the brass part of the firing buttons assembly. The notch allows me to use a small “standard” flat blade screw driver in this notch and then “tap” on the screw driver to tighten/loosen the assembly against the clones body.

Ok now disassemble your firing switch assembly completely. Take the brass part (shown below) and using the cutoff wheel in the dremil tool - cut a notch in the brass parts collar as shown. You can put this notch anywhere on this collar - I tend to “align” my notch so that it aligns with the tops “LOGO” when MOD is assembled.

Remember the brass part will get warm/hot while cutting the notch. In the photo above you can see that I make the notch all the way into the brass ring/collar until the cutoff wheel just touches the threaded part (as you can see in the above pic.) I then “widen” this notch (about 2mm wide) so that it will fit the screwdriver I will be using to tighten/untighten the firing buttons assembly. Once happy with your notch, set this brass part aside.

Next we will fix the firing button retention cap issue.

 

[Huntersgreen66]

While the firing switch is disassembled, time to fix the firing switch/buttons retention cap so it quits “un screwing” while being used. You could use “locktite” to secure the firing buttons cap to the button, but dis assembly later could become an issue. Below shows how I hold the cap with some needle nose pliers to cut a notch. TIP – the cap will get quite hot when cutting the notch – don’t burn yourself.

Using the cutoff wheel - cut a notch on one side of the little caps “collar”; widen the notch so that the tip of your needle nose pliers can fit into the notch. Use the small ....... file to also cleanup your notch. Now rotate this cap in the pliers, and cut a matching notch in the opposite side of the caps collar – again with enough room for the pliers tip to fit in the notch. As shown below, check your pliers fit, and touch up your notches with the ....... file so your pliers will work.

Now is a good time to put a lite coat of Vaseline on the firing buttons safety rings threads; and put the firing switch back together. Pushing in on the firing switch/button with your finger, tighten its retention cap finger tight (often the notching you just cut will now allow enough gripping with your fingers such that the pliers aren’t needed), then give the cap a bit more tightening with your needle nose pliers as shown below.

Finally apply a thin coat of Vaseline onto the threads of the firing buttons assembly before screwing it back onto the main body until snug. Below you can see how I use a small screwdriver - placed in the notch in the brass part of the assembly. I then use my pliers to “tap” against the screwdriver causing the part to tighten up a bit more, thus snugging up the firing switch assembly a bit more.

That’s all there is to tuning up these Panzer MODS. Put your atty on the top, push the pin tight against the atty pin, slide in your battery to the body, screw on the top with the atty, adjust the 510 pin screw to remove any battery rattle – you’re done, and enjoy your vape.
Hope this helps.

 

[deltas4]

seems like a lot of faf to me just stick with stingrays

 

[Huntersgreen66]

I have had several people PM me, and yes I believe this idea will also work for some of the other clones that have reverse thread firing button locks as well - Just think it through before one goes removing metal.

 

[Huntersgreen66]

I just did a similar "screw driver" notch on the firing button assembly on one of the "GUS mod clones" where my buddy's firing switch just wouldn't stay tight against the main body - worked great.

 

[markperkins]

Excellent write-up, thank you so much!