Mods that minimize arcing and require the least maintenance?

[Chainside]

Hello, mech community, I'm looking to get into the whole mech game, but I can't make heads or tails of the situation with battery arcing and how to avoid/minimize it, including deoxing, using dielectrics on contacts, using mods with constant contact, etc etc etc. can someone give me the modern rundown on what mod should I strive to get, if I want a good everyday workhorse for 0.09 and below builds that won't arc like a ..... and won't need cleaning for as long as possible? AFAIK steel mods are the best for this and quite possibly SOI X would have been an alright choice, if not for the lack of a steel version.

also tips on maintenance are welcome.

Thanks a lot in advance!

 

[Bad Ninja]

.09 ohms on a single cell mech is insane.
Thats over 40 amps.

Your ohm reader isnt even accurate at that resistance.

That said, arcing occurs when a contact is opened or closed.

To avoid arcing on a battery, choose a mod that maintains constant contact with both poles of the cell, and closes/breaks the circuit elsewhere.

 

[Ben85]

If you are looking for a tube mod, I'd recommend the Broadside or the Subzero. They are in my regular rotation because of the arching issue.

 

[sonicbomb]

With a well designed and built mech arcing shouldn't be a problem. In my experience micro-arcing usually occurs in the threads, usually ameliorated with a small amount of Deoxit or the like. If I was to recommend one it would be a good Stingray X Clone.
Mechs need regular cleaning, you can't get away from that. Break the mod down, drench it ketchup and soak for 10 minutes, then rinse off with water and a toothbrush.

Builds that low are ill advised. At best, even if it's a good true 30 amp battery you are going to damage it. At worst your dental work is going to have a bad day.

 

[Layzee Vaper]

I hope you mean 0.9 not 0.09.
0.09 is a very low build for a single cell mech.
Especially for somebody new to mechs.

If you really need that level of power I would strongly recommend a multi battery regulated mod, Much safer.

 

[Chainside]

I hope you mean 0.9 not 0.09.
0.09 is a very low build for a single cell mech.
Especially for somebody new to mechs.

If you really need that level of power I would strongly recommend a multi battery regulated mod, Much safer.

I'm a sort-of experienced coilbuilder (making SSFC, FSC and below with little effort) and i've already acquired some vtc5a's from nkon, otherwise i wouldn't be looking for a mech. do note, that the 0.09ohms does not take into account the resistance of the mod, the battery, or the RDA. I own an rx 2/3, patched with arcticfox to support down to 0.05 in vw and for an actually working TC mode, starting to hate the thing, since the screen died in 2 months after purchase. i'm planning to grab a noisy cricket II next, for going below 0.06. I'm not a newbie when it comes to builds, but I AM in need of assistance on current info on mechs. I've seen people use 0.04 in single mechs with care but am not planning to go that low, that much trust in pulse ratings is not for me.

To avoid arcing on a battery, choose a mod that maintains constant contact with both poles of the cell, and closes/breaks the circuit elsewhere.

But won't the arcing just move to that spot, making it even more difficult to clean?

If you are looking for a tube mod, I'd recommend the Broadside or the Subzero. They are in my regular rotation because of the arching issue.

I am really close to buying a subzero clone kit, but I'll test out my friend's broadside clone before buying. also, do you know if subzero-broadside original mods stack well? is there a thread on what mods stack well with eachother? (I am aware of ohm's law and the basic specifics of series/parallel battery arrangements, just in case anyone wants to tell me to never put 0.09 on an unregulated series mod - I know.)
PS - I'm looking for a mod that looks fine with 24mm atomizers, 22mm ones are a bit small for the builds that I do.

EDIT 1: forgot to reply to layzee vaper

EDIT 2: Added PS

 

[Layzee Vaper]

Noisy Cricket is a series mod... you need to build higher. NOT lower.

VCT5A is a 25A cell, I would strongly recommend building higher than you are considering.

Ask yourself one very simple question, is it worth blowing a hole in my face to build this low?

Two very experienced mech users (@Bad Ninja & @sonicbomb) have both questioned your build, I have only been using a mech full time for a couple of years.....

At the end of the day its up to you to decide for yourself, after all its your face, but don't say you have not been given fair warning if something goes wrong.

 

[Chainside]

Noisy Cricket is a series mod... you need to build higher. NOT lower.

VCT5A is a 25A cell, I would strongly recommend building higher than you are considering.

Ask yourself one very simple question, is it worth blowing a hole in my face to build this low?

Two very experienced mech users (@Bad Ninja & @sonicbomb) have both questioned your build, I have only been using a mech full time for a couple of years.....

At the end of the day its up to you to decide for yourself, after all its your face, but don't say you have not been given fair warning if something goes wrong.

Noisy Cricket 1 is a series mech. NCII-25, apart from being somewhat of a "fake mech" due to the board, has a parallel mode, which is the primary mode that I'm planning to be using with low res builds.
vtc5a have been proven to be a 25A battery, and the only worthy replacement in the 18650 category afais is the LG HB6 (pink)
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/attachments/img_5441-jpg.658875/
Still, the MVA listed is, as announced on the table, lowered, to be on the safe side. I see your and others'(@Bad Ninja & @sonicbomb) point, and I am not planning to build lower than 0.09 on singles. Also of note is the fact that this is a 316L build, by which i mean the resistance rises with temperature, so it does not stay at 0.09 for long at all. In the future I'm planning to switch to NiCr80 with a similar build, which will pop the resistance up by almost 2x.

 

[KenD]

Noisy Cricket 1 is a series mech. NCII-25, apart from being somewhat of a "fake mech" due to the board, has a parallel mode, which is the primary mode that I'm planning to be using with low res builds.
vtc5a have been proven to be a 25A battery, and the only worthy replacement in the 18650 category afais is the LG HB6 (pink)
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/attachments/img_5441-jpg.658875/
Still, the MVA listed is, as announced on the table, lowered, to be on the safe side. I see your and others'(@Bad Ninja & @sonicbomb) point, and I am not planning to build lower than 0.09 on singles. Also of note is the fact that this is a 316L build, by which i mean the resistance rises with temperature, so it does not stay at 0.09 for long at all. In the future I'm planning to switch to NiCr80 with a similar build, which will pop the resistance up by almost 2x.

How are you planning to accurately measure resistances that low?

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[lutses]

He could use a mod with the DNA board to measure low resistance builds accurately.

 

[Ben85]

0.09 on a single cell mech is crazy low. If you feel the need to build that low IMO you are doing something fundamentally wrong with your builds.

I couldn't comment on the stacking I'm afraid.

 

[Ben85]

He could use a mod with the DNA board to measure low resistance builds accurately.

A DNA board will not give an accurate result on a build that low. You'd need very expensive gear to do that.

 

[MMW]

 

[KenD]

He could use a mod with the DNA board to measure low resistance builds accurately.

As Ben said, that won't be accurate enough.

Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[Bad Ninja]

He could use a mod with the DNA board to measure low resistance builds accurately.

No.
He can't.

Equipment that can accurately measure resistance in that low cost much more than any DNA mod.

I'm a sort-of experienced coilbuilder (making SSFC, FSC and below with little effort) and i've already acquired some vtc5a's from nkon, otherwise i wouldn't be looking for a mech. do note, that the 0.09ohms does not take into account the resistance of the mod, the battery, or the RDA. I own an rx 2/3, patched with arcticfox to support down to 0.05 in vw and for an actually working TC mode, starting to hate the thing, since the screen died in 2 months after purchase. i'm planning to grab a noisy cricket II next, for going below 0.06. I'm not a newbie when it comes to builds, but I AM in need of assistance on current info on mechs. I've seen people use 0.04 in single mechs with care but am not planning to go that low, that much trust in pulse ratings is not for me.

You dont have equipment accurate enough to play around safely that close to the limits of your cell.

You are essentially guessing, while sticking the device in your mouth.
Good luck with that.

But won't the arcing just move to that spot, making it even more difficult to clean?

Such is the nature of all electrical connections.
Arcing will happen as described.
The carbon build up can be managed but yes, you will have to eventually clean the contact points.

I am really close to buying a subzero clone kit, but I'll test out my friend's broadside clone before buying. also, do you know if subzero-broadside original mods stack well? is there a thread on what mods stack well with eachother? (I am aware of ohm's law and the basic specifics of series/parallel battery arrangements, just in case anyone wants to tell me to never put 0.09 on an unregulated series mod - I know.)
PS - I'm looking for a mod that looks fine with 24mm atomizers, 22mm ones are a bit small for the builds that I do.

EDIT 1: forgot to reply to layzee vaper

EDIT 2: Added PS

I would not advise using a stacked device until you understand how to be safe with a single cell.

Know your gear.
Vape safe.

 

[Chainside]

Alright, then lets go ahead with the build info, because i seem to have misunderstood/been misinformed about the limits, judging by your opinions. The exact build im running right now in the subzero 24mm is a framed staple, 2x29ga, 8x0.1x0.3mm Ss316L wrapped in 38ga NiCr80, 3mm ID, 6 wraps, dualcoil.
This is about 0.096 ohms, including leg length, for the coil itself, without accounting for the resistance of the atomizer, mod, battery, etc.
Changing later to a full nicr80 build is something that im planning to do by the time i get my single mech, but i see no problem(_especially_ running parallel mode in NCII) in using 44A in ≈2 second bursts, considering the batteries are fresh and have 25+cdr.

This should give me 144-185w, depending on the charge of the battery. Seeing that i run this build at about the same levels on a reg device, this should be fine.

 

[Ben85]

It seems you have some holes in your knowledge. My advice - don't buy anything until you have read a bit more. No sensible vaper will ever say that exceeding a battery's CDR is an advisable thing to do.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Alright, then lets go ahead with the build info, because i seem to have misunderstood/been misinformed about the limits, judging by your opinions. The exact build im running right now in the subzero 24mm is a framed staple, 2x29ga, 8x0.1x0.3mm Ss316L wrapped in 38ga NiCr80, 3mm ID, 6 wraps, dualcoil.
This is about 0.096 ohms, including leg length, for the coil itself, without accounting for the resistance of the atomizer, mod, battery, etc.
Changing later to a full nicr80 build is something that im planning to do by the time i get my single mech, but i see no problem(_especially_ running parallel mode in NCII) in using 44A in ≈2 second bursts, considering the batteries are fresh and have 25+cdr.

This should give me 144-185w, depending on the charge of the battery. Seeing that i run this build at about the same levels on a reg device, this should be fine.

5 out of 6 russian roulette players say it's perfectly safe.



Parallel mode would be approaching the cdr limit...if you actually had equipment capable of accurately measuring resistance that low...which you don't.

On a single cell you will damage the battery and possibly cause it to vent.
You are just killing your batteries.
They wont work properly and will eventually have internal damage.

From your posts you dont seem to grasp battery safety or how they work.

You should listen to the advice given, and you will learn how to have a more enjoyable experience.

 

[Chainside]

If i have equipment accurate enough to measure two 0.19ohm coils separately, logically I have equipment that allows me to make a 0.095 dualcoil build.

Considering i don't mind damaging and recycling my batteries more often, and am not planning to pull power for longer than 3 seconds at a time there should not be a problem with going over the cdr, (esp with parallel cells) APART from sped up degradation of the battery. Switching to n80 will give me a resistance boost up to about 0.17 which is going to pull 25.5A in perfect conditions (read "without ANY other resistance, i.e. atomizer, mod (negligible, in cases of high-grade copper and the like (but honestly, it's still quite small)) and battery.). in realistic conditions it will probably come up to about 0.18-0.19, which is at most a 23.3A draw on the battery, and as a result is totally safe.
according to Mooch's pulse test (5 sec on, 30 sec off), the peak temperatures of the 40A and 50A draws on a VTC5a result in temperatures between 61 and 76 celsius, which, while not healthy for the battery, is not high enough to cause venting or thermal runaway (which is quite hard to get with IMRs in any case.).

TL;DR
From what i see from the tests, VTC5a allows you to pull 44 amps from it without reaching 80+celsius, _if it is not fired continuously_, in which case i point to the previous statement about <3 second presses with rests in between.
Even so, I am planning to change to nicr80 as the material for my mech builds, and in that case the point is moot.

P.S. I would really appreciate if you pointed me in the direction of subohm builds that you _would_ run in case of a single vtc5a, considering there is 0 chance of misclicking. (it's not going to spend any time in bags or such.)

 

[Layzee Vaper]

What ohm reader are you using?