MODular : customizable mod concept

[digunderground]

First off I want to say this concept / build wouldn't be possible without some of the great people on this site. Many of the internals or concepts for this mod are not new, I'm just trying to make it different, modular, and more compact. I will share all information regarding this mod as I work through it.

The Concept:
- A single battery mod (not stacked)
- easily customizable / interchangeable battery size using different tubes (18650, 18500, 18350 etc)
- variable voltage 3.6 - 6.0 ++
- voltage readout
- easily sourced parts
- under $65
- easily built by most people
- easily customizable / interchangeable atty connection (510, 801 etc)
- relatively small size for feature set.

Current Build Status:
- internals built, tested 3.6 - 6.6 V
- internals compacted as much as possible and assembled.
- Currently designing / sourcing materials for the body of the unit. Copper looks to be the easiest to find and access for most people.

This unit relies HEAVILY on the Breaktru copper mod designs and concepts, many thanks to him.

Pics of the project can be found ((-->here <--)) and will be updated as the project progresses.

if you have any suggestions please voice them!

-DIG

 

[rusalka]

I'll be watching this with interest. What is the regulator?

 

[digunderground]

I'll be watching this with interest. What is the regulator?

I'm using the ptn04050 caz adjustable output integrated switching regulator: Plug-in Power Module - Non-Isolated POL - PTN04050C - TI.com

I've tried a few different ones and this one seems to have the best overall performance thus far.

 

[LucentShadow]

I've just begun planning much the same type of project the last few days, also heavily inspired by Breaktru's mods. I'll be trying the same converter for my first one. I'm curious about which digital potentiometer you're using. I'll be looking to see what's out there for those, soon.

I've been thinking about using BNC or RCA connectors between the guts and the battery shroud. I want something that allows aligning box enclosures together, or connecting tubes together.

It'll be a while before I get around to doing much with it, though. I'll keep an eye on this in the meantime.

 

[digunderground]

I've been thinking about using BNC or RCA connectors between the guts and the battery shroud. I want something that allows aligning box enclosures together, or connecting tubes together.

That's kind of what I'm attempting, and playing around with different connections as we speak. I have found RCA / BNC are kind of large for the size I'm attempting. I have turned to one of 2 options so far
1) using alternative DC power connections like a size M or N Panel-mount Coaxial DC Power Jack
2) or making an easy to build connection that I have already tested.
I prefer the use of panel mount connections just because there is no fabrication, its just tough to keep costs down.

Either way, I'm also making it so (in theory) you could remove the "center" voltage control (3.5 - 6++v) / digital readout and make it a super short 3.5 volt mod.

Ill try to get some "technical" drawings up soon for critique.

-DIG

 

[inanitydefined]

very interesting. I'll be watching

 

[digunderground]

((---> PROJECT GALLERY <---))



Version 1.0 rough diagram also visible / updated in the gallery for this project

 

[digunderground]

I'm curious about which digital potentiometer you're using. I'll be looking to see what's out there for those, soon.

I'm experimenting with a few:
CAT5114 (PDIP−8 version): non-volatile 32 steps LINK

DS1869-100: 64 steps non-volatile LINK

X9313 : non-volatile 32 steps LINK

So far I like the DS1869-100 and the CAT5114 the best, I think its going to come down to how many steps are wanted / needed to get the voltage range etc. Currently I have the DS1869-100 in the unit and will probably build another "controller" section using the CAT5114 and them compare built models.

-DIG

 

[digunderground]

EDIT::: accidental re-post of the post above

Pic of DS1869-100 in the unit

 

[LucentShadow]

I like the design that you presented. I'm looking to make mine modular so that I can choose between 14500, 18650, or 3 NiMH in series for the power. I like all of those in different situations. Having the variable voltage section optional as well is a great idea.

I was also looking at those dc power connectors, but I'm not sure how good the retention is on them. I did find some locking dc connectors made by Kycon online, but I didn't like the receptacles much, as they all seem to be designed for PCB mount.

I found a decent selection of 32 step pots on Arrow's website. I'll be taking a closer look at those when I get a chance, as well as those that you listed. I'd like to keep somewhere around 0.1v steps.

 

[breaktru]

Nice going DIG, photos are excellent. Stay with the DS1869-100 w/ 64 steps. Better incrementing and decrementing then the 32 step
100,000 / 64 = 1562.5 ohms per step
as opposed to
100,000 / 32 = 3125 ohms per step
128 or 256 steps would be divine.

 

[digunderground]

Nice going DIG, photos are excellent. Stay with the DS1869-100 w/ 64 steps. Better incrementing and decrementing then the 32 step
100,000 / 64 = 1562.5 ohms per step
as opposed to
100,000 / 32 = 3125 ohms per step
128 or 256 steps would be divine.

I looked at a 128 step and thought that would be a lot of clicks just to get to where I'm going. Currently with the 64 step I am moving in about 0.04 increments for voltage 3.3 v to 6.6 so its 3-4 clicks to go from 3.4 volt to 3.5 volt. Wouldn't a 128 step be more precise, but have even more steps between ?

-DIG

 

[breaktru]

I looked at a 128 step and thought that would be a lot of clicks just to get to where I'm going. Currently with the 64 step I am moving in about 0.04 increments for voltage 3.3 v to 6.6 so its 3-4 clicks to go from 3.4 volt to 3.5 volt. Wouldn't a 128 step be more precise, but have even more steps between ?

-DIG

Yes more precise. There is no need to click through 1 step at a time. Holding down the button will speed things up.

 

[Str8V8ping]

I did this exact mod .Its my Cyprus2 mod except the display is a separate attachment from the electronics. I used 510 connectors instead of the dc plugs also

 

[digunderground]

I did this exact mod .Its my Cyprus2 mod except the display is a separate attachment from the electronics. I used 510 connectors instead of the dc plugs also

did you do a write up? id love to see details!

Sorry i haven't posted much, i will report back soon!

 

[Malduk]

Signing up to watch this thread. Great work, looking forward to see further development

 

[CountSmackula]

Me too. I'm very interested in this modular concept.

 

[digunderground]

Sorry I have been absent for a while, had to tend to some family issues.

I have been testing different connection methods for the different sections to help reduce the overall size (length). Currently, I think STR8 has it nailed, 510 connectors are the lowest profile and easiest for people to work with. I experimented with the DC plugs and even though they worked well, the length was offensive. Another route I started playing with was Neodymium magnets and isolated posts. The magnets were good but tough for "everyone to build", tough to guarantee the sections would align properly, and the holding power was meh at best. so currently I'm going to use 510 connections unless there are any other recommendations.

For a fire button I have settled on a illuminated (blue only when firing) stainless / nickle 11mm anti-vandal switch that is heavy duty, small enough and cost about $9 with shipping.

For voltage up and down buttons I have found illuminated tact buttons (blue only when changing voltages), $5 for 4 of them.

The one thing I'm struggling with is a screw on battery cap for ease of use. If anyone has thoughts or suggestions, let me know. I'm trying to avoid tapping anything, I want this to be as close to "order and assemble" as possible (open source). Once I conquer this, I think I'm ready to do the remainder of the build.

-DIG

 

[Rader2146]

If copper tube is to be used as the body then 2 "L" notches in the cap and 2 pins soldered into the tube would be fairly simple.

 

[digunderground]

@rader - I debated this, being the spring would provide tension. Like a notch parallel to the tube, then a radius cut off of it, and then drill a hole through so the pins can set there under tension (press in and turn). I haven't tried it yet but here are my concerns. 1) do you think it would be easy enough for most people to do. 2)would you be able to do it each time so that the end caps could be interchangeable between each battery section. 3) copper is soft, would long term durability be an issue with the notches holding up.

I thin the only way to answer these is to just do it and see. I will use some of the components I have to try this. All feedback is welcome, I appreciate it all.

Again- great suggestions Rader!

-DIG