Correct me if I am wrong... but if he was bypassing the switch by connecting both leads to the same terminal, then it would always be on and would otherwise work fine,... versus "when an.atty.is installed it barely fires and the mosfet/resistor heat up. " as the OP stated. I would also like to confirm... the point of connecting the battery to the switch is simply to provide the switch with the power required to activate the mosfet (without getting technical).
If you have connected everything the same way it is connected in the diagram it should work, unless something is broken.
Here is an example... yes, the battery is waiting it's turn to go on charge. But the picture shows everything rigged up and that
smok ohmmeter is actually showing the voltage passing through the 510 over to the atty on the left.
Now... you will notice the mosfet is attached to a large heat spreader because I wanted the mosfet to be able to handle a lot of power, but in the example picture it's only pushing a couple amps. The mosfets are going to under-rate themselves to a reduced power output once they reach a certain temp (and/or burn out) and it may not be obvious unless you connect an ammeter between the mosfet output and the load (mosfet and 510 or 510 to atty).
Other times I have connected an ammeter between the mosfet and the atty... and the output matched up with the output reading from the power supply that I was using... there was only a slight drop which is accounted for by the mosfet.
Sorry it's so messy, it's parts that were laying around.