MOSFET question for tactile switch

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WillyB

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... Switch current through your tactile switch is solely a matter of your pull-down or pull-up resistor value and source voltage. You can go as low as 4.7k for a tactile switch, but 10k, 33k, or 47k are also fine. The advantage of a lower resistance is less susceptibility to noise. The disadvantage is it results in more current flow through the switch and more power consumption.
But how do the higher values affect efficiency?

Isn't it best to make sure the gates of your mosfets see as little resistance as possible. Won't a high resistance to ground cause the gate capacitance of a mosfet (an N at least) to discharge much slower than if the resistance was low? Would not this mean the mosfet is spending more time in the high channel resistance triode region?
 

CraigHB

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For high frequency switching applications yes, gate charge comes into play and you need to minimize gate loading. For user input, not really. The time constant formed by the gate capacitance and even a 47k resistor is still very small. Plus you have to look at overall input impedance. It's not just the resistance of the pull down or pull up the gate charge is working against, there's also the impedance when the switch is pushed, which is usually pretty low.

With reasonably valued components, there should not be a concern over gate drive impedance for user input. Worst case, it will cause a slight ramp up or down, but nothing that would be detectable empirically. For very high current applications, you may have to consider FET heating, but I don't think that's an issue here. Surge currents have to be pretty large with power FETs before they become a consideration.

Often when accepting user input from a switch, you use a debouncing circuit that adds quite a bit of capacitance to the driving end of the switch. I set up my switch debouncers with 30k resistors and 1uF caps. Still not an empirically detectable delay and that's a time constant orders of magnitude larger than the one formed by a pull up/down resistor and gate charge of a FET. Though on an oscilloscope, it's quite detectable.
 

bstedh

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Ok, I have several mosfets that I can't identify. They probably won't work for a switch but as I have several maybe somebody will recognize the package labeling to find out for sure.
I believe the package is PG-TO263-2 as the center lead is cut off
They are being used with an ncp5355 mosfet driver and an ncp5314 controller for Vcore cpu voltage.
it has 3 rows of numbers
452 on "the on is circled"
85
N02

I think it might be this animal
 
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bstedh

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I just pulled out an old server motherboard and it has a plethora of mosfets just waiting to be removed. =]
LR7821 X13
LR7843 X14
FDD6670A X4
L5602S X1
B650TG X1 ???
85n02 x6
t70n03 x3
SP8K3 X1
RSS090N03 X1
RSS110N03 X2
If they are useful I will drop one into an envelope for anyone that would need it. I will want to keep a couple for myself however =]. I will have to make a test fixture to make sure I didn't fry them as I pull them off the board.
 
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bstedh

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Well, I tested out a bunch of the mosfets and they are working. I have a handful of the N-Fets that I am letting go. If you need one to get started on your mod send me a PM and I will throw one in a static bag and envelope and send it off. If you want more than one PM with something for trade. I am giving away 7 or 8 no charge no shipping but please only ask if you really need to save yourself the shipping cost of ordering one.
Let me know if you have a preference between one of these two models otherwise I will just send out the one I have more of.
LR7821
LR7843
These are all surface mount but are big enough to not be too difficult to solder wires too if you are not using a board.
IMAG0105.jpg

Here is an image of my crappy quick throw together N-Fet test rig =]
IMAG0104.jpg

I definitely will not be buying prototype boards form RS anymore. I can't believe how easily this thing would burn and the traces are supper thin and crappy. I need to find my old bread board. I think I still have it somewhere buried in a box in the garage. I don't think I've used it in almost 20 years :blink:
 

wolcen

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Sweet! I had no idea what was in all those IC's on my junk MB that I just haven't been able to make myself throw away (why!?!). Alas, they may just have found their calling in a few mods I ordered a variety of other parts for yesterday. I'm hoping so anyway.

Nice little testing rig. I'll have to make me one of those...

Whether I get something that works or not, I'm still happy that vaping has provided the motivation to pick up my long-lost hobby of hacking apart electronics to play with and try to build something else (or something better) out of.

winning!
 

wolcen

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I was going to ask how the heck you managed to get the components off and if maybe I needed a stronger soldering iron. So, off to an internet search and I found this great article: How To Desolder Components | Hardware Secrets

So, turns out you want to add solder to components you want to remove. I still have to try this out, but I'll tell you I know that NOT adding solder does NOT work :p
 

bstedh

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I just used a heat gun on them until they started floating and if they didn't slide off on their own I used a small pick to push them off their solder pads. You do need to be careful not to overheat them and ruin them however. Getting components off a MB with an iron is very hard to do but solder wick helps some.
 
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