Most Highest mAh PT PAss Through Passthrough Portable USB Power Box MOD Works? Car Wall Charger?s

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frankfennel

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Hope someone can quote this and add comments, any corrections, and answers along the way.
I'll send you a couple free DIY flavors if you're in the US. Nothing against non-Americans, it's just because of shipping.They'd be ones I don't like and bought to test, but you might like them.That's if I don't like all the ones I buy.


I'm considering my options instead of a dual 26500 box + batteries & charger for about $100 or a PT tube 18650 MOD like The Darwin VW or VV Saber Touch which are like $200 with batteries, charger, + the VV option.
Don't suggest something like 'just get a dual 26500 Box mod' or 'I last all day on an 18650'.I'm just considering my options, seeing if this bargain will work and want to learn.

I could get a $40 VV Vamo (kinda big for an 18650) plus a couple 3000mAh 18650s and charger for about $70 total after tax and shipping. An 18650 would probably last me a day of much vaping especially if I raise my nicotine level from 6mg and vape less. Some say an 18650 doesn't last them a day, others basically say they vape all day on a single 18650. A Vamo's less parts and simpler than this USB combo. Built-in ohm reader means I don't have to break out, unscrew alligator clips, and zero-out my ohm meter. I can always add a $7 20,000mAH USB PSU and connect the 18650's charger if I'm going camping or something (if it has USB port or if an adapter exists) or get another 18650 to keep in my pocket if I can't carry the whole charger.
I still might try this idea though.

Since I'm sorta new to vaping, please forgive me if you go through all this and there's some key factor(s) that makes this idea impractical compared to something like a Vamo or dual box MOD:





I want to know how PTs work with portable USB Power Supply Unit Boxes (I refer to as a USB PSU).
USB PSUs:
mah usb power -car | eBay

I refer to the next item as the battery-less VV PT EGO. It has protection from building short coils, but has no battery, so I'm not sure if it has the same protection as an EGO that has a battery. I guess it's still protection that kicks in and regulates how much power it takes for each VV setting though.
Variable voltage 510/eGo USB passthrough

^ needs at least 2Amps to run. It works with USB PSUs. We'll get into why it works and why I'm asking if PTs that have their own battery might not.


20,000 mAh PSU for $6.78 including shipping, adapters, and no charger needed.
20000mAh USB Power Bank External Battery Charger for I Phone 4 s 5 Blue Pink | eBay


Too big for pocket but is 12,000 mAh for $8 including shipping.
White 12000mAh 2 USB Portable Power Bank Battery for iPhone4 5 Samsung HTC | eBay
&hash=item3ccfdf28a9&nma=true&si=UzxFAqjZTG61a2Xnpl%252F%252FofRPBe8%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

^Voltage: 3.7V; Input: DC 5V`1A Max.; Output USB1: DC 5V`2.1A Max.; Output USB2: DC 5V`1A Max:


As tested and confirmed yesterday by two forumers, a battery-less VV eGO PT will work plugged into the 2.1Amp port of ^ and a similar Anker brand USB PSU.

However, I'd rather use a VV PT that has it's own battery because volts can be fine tuned unlike the battery-less VV PT that only changes in large increments (something like 3.0 to 3.6 to 4.2 to 4.8). Plus the battery-less one always needs a cord running to the battery. There's a similar and smaller option I'll bring up later (rare USB-to-EGO adapter for Cylapex MOD), but it also jumps in large increments. There's also the possibility of tripping the USB PSU and being stuck without power if an EGo battery's not connected which I'll go over.



There are USB-to-Mini USB adapters (just a coupling without a wire). But even a 650mah PT EGO on a 3000mAh USB PSU tube might be too long, possibly sticking out of pocket, interfere with walking even with baggy pants, and possibly snap.
There are USB PSUs with a male mini USB port on them which eliminate the need for an adapter and makes the combo smaller. It'd have to be secured though while still allowing it to detach. I can probably make it really solid if I took the time, but I'm Okay wth just detaching a VV EGO PT from the USB PSU as needed.

I'd rather make the combo side by side instead of stacked: Take a single 3,000mAh(ish) 18650 USB PSU cylinder or a double 18650 (side by side batteries) USB PSU cylinder. Attach either of the followng linked cords, more likely the retractable one because it doubles as a car PT cord eventhough it's a bit bigger than carrying a 4 inch cord. At only 30 inches, I'll probably also have to get a longer $2 one for wall adapters.

4.9 inch cord (or shorter if can find) male USB-to-male Mini USB:
New Short USB 2 0 A Male to Mini 5 Pin B Data Cable Cord Adapter | eBay

Retractable 30 inch USB-to-miniUSB cable:
USB A Male to Mini USB B 5 Pin Male Retractable Cable | eBay


Next, attach the USB PSU and the VV PT EGO and put in pocket so that it sort of makes a 'U' in that the PSU's upside down but the PV and cartomizer is upright. Detach the PV from cord and reattach when done vaping. Or just keep the PSU unplugged and for back up. Or secure them side-by-side that can be detached if needed.
Keeping it always charged prolongs the PT's battery life both short term for the day and how many months you will get out of it. Because it charges slower than it gets vaped so you won't have to worry about it ever running low unless maybe you dry burn a whole bunch of coils, and it should last months longer if not fully drained then recharged ofen.

That's basically the PV.
3,000 or 6,000mAh USB PSUs are like $4 with shipping
Retractable USB cord is $1.50 with shipping
Longer USB cord for wall adapter is like $2
Car adpaters are like 99cents
Wall adapters are like 99cents
650mAh VV PT EGO is like $25 after shipping.

Grand total after tax and shipping is about $34.50 for a 3,000 or 6,000mAh (plus the EGO's 650mAh) VV PT EGO PV that fits in a pocket and can also charge phones etc. I give it the bargain MOD of the year award.

A non-PT screw-in EGO charger can also be used if anyone already has a non-PT EGO and wants to attach a USB PSU.

I'd have to drill a small hole if the USB PSU case doesn't have one to allow gasses to escape? I'd take the case apart and not drill into the battey of course.







However, I'm wondering if protection's an issue.
PTs that have an internal battery (basically any PT besides the mini battery-less EGOs) have battery protection (and protection from firing a short coil).
I guess battery protection is 1) what regulates how many Amps it takes from it's source when charging as a PT. 2) When any non-PT battery's being charged. 3) Regulates how many volts it puts out when vaping. 4) etc.


This thread about the same subject notes that the manufacturer/seller of a similar USB PSU says: "Please use the battery without protection. because this power box has Circuit built-in protection. otherwise would burn the power box."
The thread doesn't conclude. No-one tried it with either a battery-less PT or a PT with it's own protected battery. They sort of said it won't work because of protection to protection.
10000 mah 5v Box Mod Anyone?


Most of the Ebay USB PSU say that they have protections. If they don't, they probably still do. It's probably very rare to find an unprotected USB PSU.


I read that a PT that has it's own battery needs a USB port giving about a 1 Amp. I read some run them fine on .8 Amp USBs and even .5 Amp computer USBs (most are .5Amp).
I assume the computer USB has protection that stops more than .5 Amp to be drawn (or whatever it's rated for - up to 5 Amp max for USB 3.0 I think). If that protection breaker fails, then power's sucked away from the motherboard and things can fry.
But PTs with their own battery only vape from the PV battery and the USB's just charging it at .42 Amp (420mAh) I think, so wouldn't both the PV battery and USB port's protections have to fail in order to fry the computer or possibly overpower the PT and break/blow up it's battery? IOW, if the USB breaker trips, it would shut down and (hopefully) just need to be reset. If it fails, it would be putting out more Amps then it was regulated at, but the PT EGO's protection would still only take what it needs to charge?


To answer the frequently asked: "which wall or car PT or USB charger should I use", the answer's simply that they're all 5V input (which is the USB standard because no USB's more than 5V?), so get the one with the higest Volt output? What about mAh or Amp output if that's listed instead, just convert it?
But it's sort of a flip coin because if you do trip the protection in the USB power source and chose something with the highest Volt output and are using something like an EGO PT, then there'll be more Amps running into the EGO. The larger amount of power coming from the USB makes it more likely for the EGO PT to trip or break (which would be almost instantaneous to the power source trip)? So therefore just get something rated slightly higher than the decive plugged in requires? IOW a trip that's fixed by a reset is more common if the supply port is rated only slightly higher that the device that's taking power needs, but the device plugged in is less likely to fry (or blow up?) from too much power going at it?




Replies from my other thread:

Person 1: "All USB power supplies output 5 volts +-0.25 which is the USB standard. It doesn't matter if the power supply is a battery or plugged into a wall socket, USB is USB. Some USB power supplies have less current capacity than 2amp. If you draw more from the power supply than it is rated for it will sooner or later trip its fuse/breaker or burn out."


What if the output's protection were purposly burnt out so that more amps are drawn from it - would that be way more than an atty could use and not be beneficial, like to vape at an unregulated 8 volts if it happens to be 8 Volts and not something like 100 Volts? A PT EGO with a battery only vapes from it's battery and 8 Volts would probably trip it's protection, but the rare USB-to-EGO adapter (Cylapex MOD) I'll talk about later seems to have an unprotected free mode setting that could maybe use 8Volts for dual coils and I think I've read people go up to about 11 Volts for whatever other reason. This is assuming USB ever becomes 8 Volts or if a non-USB source were supplying the power.


Person 2: "The answers to your inquiry are easy:

The source must provide ample power to the drain.

One or both (source and/or drain) should have some protection (over charge>drain/over drain<source)

If your drain is unregulated/unprotected, the full amperage of the source is supplied.

If your drain requires a limited (let's say 1amp) supply and your supply is offering 2amps, you're within spec. The circuit of your drain will only pull 1amp. It will prevent the full current of the supply by its regulation

If you attach an un-regulated drain of +2.1amps to a source which is regulated to supply that only offers 2 amps, the most current you'll get into your drain is 2amps.

I hope this answers your questions. To be short, yes, you can hook an eGo PT to a PSU, as long as the PSU supplies the current required by the PT to function. Both should have protection.

ETA: the PSU that you have pictured is 4x 3000mah 18650-parallel, providing 8-20amps to the internal charging circuit. That circuit uses the excess amperage to produce the supply voltage of 5v. The circuit regulates the supply voltage to 2.1amps. If you connect something that draws more than 2.1amps, the PSU will not function. Basically, you're safe.



Sounds like I can use a protected USB PSU with a protected eGO PT that has it's own battery eventhough "Please use the battery without protection. because this power box has Circuit built-in protection. otherwise would burn the power box." -Manufacturer/Vendor.






NicFitNation.com - Canadian supplier of e-cig kits, parts, accessories, and e-liquids - Power Baby Mod

Cylapex VV-PCCP (CYPXVVPCCP)

I don't want these ^. The rest of this is basically info I'd like to learn or share.
They ^ have either a 510 port or a rare VV USB-to-EGO adapter.

An ebay USB PSU is much cheaper compared to a Power Baby/Daddy to use just their PSU with an additional VV PT EGO like I'm probably going to pair up.


The Power Baby is 5V max if you screw a cartomizer into it's 510 port without the unique VV adapter. I think the Cylapex is the same 5V max when it's VV EGO adapter is in un-protected free mode. The included unique VV adapters are like the battery-less VV PT EGO that jumps between something like 3.3, 4, 4.8 Volts, which sucks because I can't find the sweet spot for the best vapor and flavor unless I can predict the ohms withing about .25 before I build a coil. But flavor and vape production would also vary between different juices and require a slight volt change. Plus there's the risk of it tripping from a dual coil or low ohm coil which I'll go over.


The Power Daddy, Baby, and the Cylapex's protection trip when using ohms too low (about 1.5ohm) or high (some dual coils or over something about 3ohm). If they trip, they need a power source to reset the breaker. The eBay USB PSU might also trip like that but I'd be vaping off the VV EGO PT attached to it and only ever taking about .42 Volts to charge it as a PT. There might be a way to store a tiny battery or something inside or on the outside of the case of these trip-prone PSUs that can reset the breaker wihout needing a jump start from a power source.

With a PT EGO atached to a PSU, it won't trip if ohms are too low or high requiring slightly more Watts than USB PSUs can provide which trips them. It might pop the coil if it were really low, or just take forever to heat up a coil that has an ohm that's way too high. I wouldn't be stuck with a PSU that needs a jump. I'd be vaping off the PT's battery and only ever be taking about .42 Amps (pretty sure) from the PSU to charge the PT.

The same settings (dual coils and any coils over about 2ohms OR lower than 1.8ohm coils) on an EGO Twist still works but I read aren't reccomended because they can put more stress on the battery and slightly shorten lifespan because they're not high drain batteries. An EGO only goes as low as about 3.3Volts which when paired with a 1.5ohm coil is still 'high volt vaping' because the Watts are up at around 8. Basically the EGOs can do that many Watts but it stresses them, and the USB PSUs just can't give that many Watts is why they short out with really low or high ohm coils?


FWIW, they'd probably only ever trip if I put on a new coil that's over/under allowable ohms. IOW, I won't go hiking or something and decide to build a new coil that might short it, or put on a different tank with an unknown ohm that might trip it and not have a power source to reset the breaker.


The best combo would be if the Cylapex USB-to-EGO/510 adapters had fine-tunable VV and a tiny PT battery in them that only takes about .42 Volts from the PSU and uses it's own battery to vape from like an EGO that doesn't trip with certain Watts from low or dual coil atomizers. That right there would basically dominate the entire EGO-sized VV battery market. $5 for 3000mAh USB PSU and I've seen the Power Baby 510/EGO adapter for $8.97 and the Cylapex USB-to-510/EGO adapter for $14.99 which is over-priced because of that vendor's free shipping, and competition might bring the adapters down to about $7. They could make a more expensive version with the internal battery for like $10 for those would want to vape off that battery instead of risking tripping the USB PSU, which most people won't because most people don't use lower than 1.8ohm coils or dual coils that need more Watts to operate than a USB PSU can give.





The Power Baby MOD says: "Due to protection circuit in this device, it will not work with low resistance atomizers rated under 1.8ohms or dual coil cartomizers."
If only the 510 port were protected, then it's USB port would be unprotected and able to run PTs that have their own battery, which I doubt they make one protected and not the other, and I'm pretty sure protection on protection doesn't even matter and is a good thing.



The Power Daddy says:
"One of the USB outs is 500mAh for e-cigs and cell phones and the other USB out has a full 1 AMP rating to charge iPads and tablets."

Because neither of it's ports provide the 2amps to power a battery-less PT, I guess this means the Daddy's compatable with a PT that has it's own battery because the .5 amp will just charge the PT's battery which provides the vaping power. It doesn't come with any sort of special EGO/510 port, it's just USBs - I guess this answers my question if the ebay USB PSUs will work with a PT that has it's own protected battery, unless the Daddy happens to be unprotected (doesn't say), which I highly doubt because it says it's also for charging cell phones in that port. Unless only the 1amp port on the Daddy is protected and the .5 amp it says to use for the PT or phones isn't, which I doubt they'd do but might still work if a cell phone has it's own protection which they more than likely do. IOW, if a phone has it's own protection and is connected to an unprotected port putting out too much power, the phone will just take what it needs because of it's protection? But all that extra power makes it more prone to trip?

The Cylapex VV-PCCP has an eGO-to-USB adapter most people probably haven't seen before.
It says:
1A Output for charging 100-600mAh Mobile Phone.
2A Output for Ipad or Bigger Capacity Mobile Phone or products.
"1A & 2A Port All Available for E-cigarette Atomizers/Clearomizers, Variable Voltage: 3.2V-4.0V-4.8V ".

"The USB-510/eGo adapter is specially designed by our engineers, can only be used on our VV-PCCP power body and work well, if put on other normal power bank USB port, the adapter would keep working without stop, and this would destroy any of your atomizer/clearomizer easily."


This reviewer vapes the Cylapex's Ego-to-USB adapter from a PC's USB at 12:10 and it works.



Cylapex warns about using their USB-to-510/EGO adapter on other devices because: The button on it doesn't fire the atty, it just changes volts with each press. It fires non stop as soon as it's plugged into a wall, computer, or car USB port, but not USB PSUs that activate by a button and aren't always supplying power. Most PSUs have an on/off switch, not exactly an activate/deactivate, but same affect and it should work with those.

You can plug in cell phones, tablets, etc and not need to hold down the button - the power button needs to be tapped 3X to change modes.


The Power Baby has a button to activate the 510 port, but the USB port constantly sends power. This review at 8:00 says he used it to charge EGos which is basically the same as connecting an EGo PT, so I guess that answers that a protected EGo will work with the Power Baby which notes having protection.
Big Vapers Review - Power Baby MOD from NicFitNation.com - YouTube

Another video said the Power Baby can charge an iTaste and be used as a PT (charge the Power Baby while vaping from it's 510 port), so I guess there's no protection vs protection incompatibility really anywhere, except the device I quoted saying that it would fry it, which might be misinformation that caused all of this confusion.

I also saw the Power Baby being charged while being vaped off of like a PT with no problem, the ebay ones can likely do that also.

A possible problem with using these PSUs as a boxes is that any tank leaks like from a bottom coil atty like a Kanger Protank or dripping into a drip tip might drip into nearby USB ports or the port the tank is in and fry the PSU or maybe explode or something. The power Baby has rubber inserts to seal off the USB ports which would have been better off just put on the opposite side. I don't drip tip and I know how to make bottom coil tanks not leak, so it's not a problem for me.
 
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frankfennel

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Searched some more but didn't find anything answering these questions.

If a reply never answers them, I assume most if not all of my questions are correctly assumed though.

I'm pairing a USB PSU with a 1200mAh PT EGO and will post back if any problems occur, but everything should be fine and I won't post back.

Also getting a battery charging bag. battery charging bag | eBay

Not a cheap one though. This video tests a cheap one which might even make it worse
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEkewCjiDs0

Also want to make a correction about: "Keeping it always charged prolongs the PT's battery life..."
Keeping it always fully charged is a good thing, but keeping it charging once it's fully charged is not and can cause problems and even explosions.
 
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Chas_L

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I purchased a VV( 3.3-3.6-4.2-4.8) USB passthru from Fasttech for $5.50 , I used a 4 cell AA holder with Sanyo Eneloop 2000 mAh cells in it and it works great.

See post here

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...through-mod-will-work-right.html#post10501149


I also purchased a USB backup power supply from Fasttec which uses 1-4 18650 LiIon cells which I found as others have that it cuts off after 10 seconds without a constant load on it. To prevent it from cutting off I wired two LEDS in parallel using 68 Ohms resistors with them and wired this to a extra USB cable I had. A 100 mA load is enough to keep the USB backup power supply active (On). All you have to do to alow the unit to turn off is unplug the USB cable with LEDs and unit does normal shut down if no other load is being applied. The Unit I used has two USB outputs, one regulated a 1/2 A , 1A and 2A the other not limited .

I have four 2200 mAh 18650s installed in it for a total of 8,800 mAh (8.8Ah) so will power an ecig devices for many days between charges.
 

BJ43

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Chas_L

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I Am sure you do not need any explanations but those who have little electronic knowledge may.


I have a VV / VW device which I never run at over 6.5 watts which is 1.75 A at 3.7V and only 1.3A at 5V. Your 3A at 5V mininum is good for 15 watts and I understanf that many sport vape and thus the reason why some IC now have the max. watts increased from the ild 15 watts t5o the present 20 watts max. ..

I use a 2.0 Ohm coil at 3.6V or 6 watts setting and it works for me however I fully understand that everyone has different preferences.

FYI my 4 cell Eneloop powered passthru set to 3.6V draws only 1.5A and Eneloops are capable of much more and thus explains why I am able to use close to their max. capacitry before reaching low voltage cut off for the pass thru.


For those who want photos and links

http://.........blogspot.com/2013/05/who-wants-10000mah-box-mod.html

Note fasttec has a USB passthru similiar but with power cable for $5.52 which is the ones I use.
 
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BJ43

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I Am sure you do not need any explanations but those who have little electronic knowledge may.


I have a VV / VW device which I never run at over 6.5 watts which is 1.75 A at 3.7V and only 1.3A at 5V. Your 3A at 5V mininum is good for 15 watts and I understanf that many sport vape and thus the reason why some IC now have the max. watts increased from the ild 15 watts t5o the present 20 watts max. ..

I use a 2.0 Ohm coil at 3.6V or 6 watts setting and it works for me however I fully understand that everyone has different preferences.

FYI my 4 cell Eneloop powered passthru set to 3.6V draws only 1.5A and Eneloops are capable of much more and thus explains why I am able to use close to their max. capacitry before reaching low voltage cut off for the pass thru.


For those who want photos and links

http://.........blogspot.com/2013/05/who-wants-10000mah-box-mod.html

Note fasttec has a USB passthru similiar but with power cable for $5.52 which is the ones I use.

Sorry I forget there are still people using thin wire attys. A 2ohm 28g kanthal coil will hardly get warm at 6 watts. This is what is great about this vaping, my first PTs 4 years ago were with a 3.5 ohm standard atty and i used 3 rechargeable AA batts. Now all mine are 28g or 30g kanthal 1.2 to 1.6 ohms 12 to 15 watts. Is mine better, no. It is just preference and the unending quest for more vapor and flavor.:toast:
 
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