Moving along ...

[opm2008]

Greetings.
I hate to sound extreme but I am thinking of going from my starter EVOD kit to a Mech.
Reason being the single coil bottom feed EVOD is proving to be a hassle with leaking fluid and best attempts to ensure a clear atty is proving to be very temporary.
Secondly, I notice that I get a more satisfactory puff (yes, I want the CLOUD but get a puff at best) with a freshly charged battery and that does not last for very long.

Okay, I lie.
I am not thinking but have actually ordered a Hades 26650 Clone mech by Tobeco.
Perhaps not the most discerning choice but I chose it based on accessibility.
There are no vape shops where I live and battery setups etc have to be from one point of purchase to economize on shipping.

My question is this.
Am I set up right and is there a difference if I start my play into mods with a 18650 and move up to 26650?
(don't laugh, I am only 20 days into this)

After going through the rudimentary search for atty compatibility, I have chosen the safe 26650 Tobh SS rda.
Yes, DRIP ... a BIG lifestyle choice I feel
And Purple Efest IMR 26650 3000maH 3.7V Battery.
More importantly, I also bought the battery charger

TIA!

 

[T4T3Z0R]

Before you do anything you need to read up on battery safety. Super important. ill post a link in a minute unless someone else beets me to it

 

[Susan~S]

If you are new to mech mods and rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding mods and rebuildables are listed below:

BATTERIES

9. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

17. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

14. Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

16. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

MECHANICAL MODS & REBUILDABLES

7. Information Resources for Your First RBA
* An essential read and reference guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.

15. Inexpensive Mechanical Mod and RDA Setup
* A response to the frequently asked question on how to get into rebuildable atomizers with a mechanical mod inexpensively. Includes a list of commonly used tools and supplies for rebuilding and where to find them.

 

[Vortex2509]

Yes with mech mods battery safety is big . But the 26650 is just a bigger battery the important stuff is how many amps you are gonna need for what yur building

 

[opm2008]

I did get a Nitecore Intellicharger And AsModus Atomizer Cartomizer Ohm Reader/Tester. I also ordered a pair of MNKE IMR 26650 3300mAh Batteries. Just in case this or the Efest do not work out. Thanks for reminding.

From reading some of the blogs and videos, I gather that coil resistance and battery discharge is the key to a safer (won't use the word safe) experience.
The high drain batteries cannot be paired with higher ohm attys.
Am I correct in my understanding?
What should the resistance rating be?
I read this to be between 0.8ohms to 1.5 ohms when using the MMod.
Is this correct?

Thanks again for your help.

 

[Vortex2509]

I am running a dual coil on my plum view off of my ipv2 at .5 ohms I can safely build down to .2 . Just haven't yet I run 18650 high drain 30 amp

 

[Treborsmug]

Get good at doing rebuilds and rebuild those factory atty's. I do them all and get my old Evod to puff like an RDA. Junk the factory silica wick for cotton also. I just replaced some of just the wick for a big improvement with out recoiling. That's a real easy redo.

 

[opm2008]

Get good at doing rebuilds and rebuild those factory atty's. I do them all and get my old Evod to puff like an RDA. Junk the factory silica wick for cotton also. I just replaced some of just the wick for a big improvement with out recoiling. That's a real easy redo.

Now that sounds like a dream! I have trashed 5 EVOD coils.
Tried the bit with soaking and drying out the coils - not very good results.
How do I switch out the wicks on the fty coils?
I did try on one, pulling out one end and finally ending with a long metal wire.
That did not work out at all.

 

[Treborsmug]

Now that sounds like a dream! I have trashed 5 EVOD coils.
Tried the bit with soaking and drying out the coils - not very good results.
How do I switch out the wicks on the fty coils?
I did try on one, pulling out one end and finally ending with a long metal wire.
That did not work out at all.

Just take off the rubber donut and pop that chimney off. Needle nose that silica out. Don't bend up that coils. Keep it centered and fire it up to burn of that junk. I use a little Everclear and one of those little green dental picks to scrub through the coil before doing the burn off. Twist and new cotton wick. Trim it off close, prime it with a drop of juice. Put the chimney and the donut back on and go.....

 

[opm2008]

If you are new to mech mods and rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding mods and rebuildables are listed below:

BATTERIES

9. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

17. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

14. Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

16. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

MECHANICAL MODS & REBUILDABLES

7. Information Resources for Your First RBA
* An essential read and reference guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.

15. Inexpensive Mechanical Mod and RDA Setup
* A response to the frequently asked question on how to get into rebuildable atomizers with a mechanical mod inexpensively. Includes a list of commonly used tools and supplies for rebuilding and where to find them.

Good grief.
This is great! I have been all over Google and everything is here!
Thank you Susan S.

It's quite a bit to learn and .. time to read.

 

[opm2008]

Just take off the rubber donut and pop that chimney off. Needle nose that silica out. Don't bend up that coils. Keep it centered and fire it up to burn of that junk. I use a little Everclear and one of those little green dental picks to scrub through the coil before doing the burn off. Twist and new cotton wick. Trim it off close, prime it with a drop of juice. Put the chimney and the donut back on and go.....

Thank you kindly!
This would prove useful!
For love of life and limb, looks like I'll stay with the Starter EVOD until I go through the stuff Susan S suggested.

You guys have been great!
HAGWE all!

 

[Susan~S]

If you want better performance out of your Kanger coils I suggest you periodically clean AND dry burn them. When they finally don't work well (or at all) replace them (but save the non-functioning ones). You may at some point want to learn to rebuild them.

How to Clean & Dry Burn Kanger Protank/EVOD Coil Tutorial
Kanger Protank/EVOD Micro Coil Rebuild

 

[Treborsmug]

I still go out the door with my Evod tank and 650 mah battery ( and rebuilt Atty's) in a Maglite belt case. If I'm on one of my long RV road trips I'll put my short Mods in a foam block ( I cut holes in to stand them up) in the truck console.

 

[opm2008]

I still go out the door with my Evod tank and 650 mah battery ( and rebuilt Atty's) in a Maglite belt case. If I'm on one of my long RV road trips I'll put my short Mods in a foam block ( I cut holes in to stand them up) in the truck console.

Thanks m8.
I really want to get a handle on this.
It's my way out of the analog rut,
You've been a great help.
Do you use organic cotton as replacement wicks or just the ordinary cotton balls from the supermarket?

 

[opm2008]

If you want better performance out of your Kanger coils I suggest you periodically clean AND dry burn them. When they finally don't work well (or at all) replace them (but save the non-functioning ones). You may at some point want to learn to rebuild them.

How to Clean & Dry Burn Kanger Protank/EVOD Coil Tutorial
Kanger Protank/EVOD Micro Coil Rebuild

The links have the answer!
Thanks again treborsmug!

 

[Cavenerd]

Good grief.
This is great! I have been all over Google and everything is here!
Thank you Susan S.

It's quite a bit to learn and .. time to read.

OP. Welcome and thanks for joining us. You nailed it just about perfectly. You can spend hours Googling or come here and we will find most of your research for you most of the time. The ECF vets have been around and they all know the shortcuts to help you find what you want... to help you find the vape you want.

I'm sure I'll see you around the threads. Vape on!

Also, as a reminder to the vets and noobs alike: Thank a fellow ECF'er today for their service and membership in our community.

 

[opm2008]

Always! Cheers and ECF rox!

 

[opm2008]

With the batteries. Having read the material (not all of it but enough to start being confused), need your help to clarify my understanding.

Batteries come with designed limits on its rate of discharge. Measured in Amp. The length and diameter of wire used for the coils determine the resistance. Measured in Ohms.

Compatible resistance and rate of discharge results is a heated coil and stable batteries. Lower resistance increase battery rate of discharge and creates unstable batteries esp if it exceeds designed rate.

High resistance (thicker wires, more coil) will result in batteries being unable to drive the coil to heat and affecting vapor production.

May I ask if some could give me nudge either way if my understading is headed in the right direction?

 

[Cavenerd]

With the batteries. Having read the material (not all of it but enough to start being confused), need your help to clarify my understanding.

Batteries come with designed limits on its rate of discharge. Measured in Amp. The length and diameter of wire used for the coils determine the resistance. Measured in Ohms.

Compatible resistance and rate of discharge results is a heated coil and stable batteries. Lower resistance increase battery rate of discharge and creates unstable batteries esp if it exceeds designed rate.

High resistance (thicker wires, more coil) will result in batteries being unable to drive the coil to heat and affecting vapor production.

May I ask if some could give me nudge either way if my understading is headed in the right direction?

Yes. You have the basics. You are moving along the correct path.

High resistance (thicker wires, more coil) will result in batteries being unable to drive the coil to heat and affecting vapor production.

One small change: resistance is dependent on the length of the wire (adding more coils adds more to the overall length of your resistance wire being used). The thicker the wire, the less resistance it will offer. i.e 22awg (thick wire) is less resistive to current flow than 30awg (thin wire), hence the 30awg wire has more resistance per inch/cm/foot/etc than the same length of 22awg.

I excerpted something I wrote earlier that explains how and why this happens. The bolded section is, I think fairly straight forward.



"...I'm actually a geologist by education and rocks are not famous for their electric effects. So if there are smarter folks out there please correct my analogy and/or science.

On an 8-lane highway (thicker wire) it would be pretty easy to get 100 cars (electrons) through a 100 yard segment of road in a few seconds, but on a 1-lane highway (thin wire) it would be it would be much more difficult to get the same amount of cars through the same distance in the same time. In the second case, Road Rage (resistive heating) would grow much faster.

Please realize that this is a rough explanation and it leaves out a few of the actual mechanisms for resistive heating.

The real mechanism that causes your wire to heat up is a transfer of energy between moving electrons and the atoms of the wire. It's almost like an atomic level friction. As the electrons "bang" into the atoms of the wire they leave behind a tiny bit of their energy. That "left-behind"/transferred energy is what causes your wire to heat.

If the length of the wire(s) and the number of moving electrons (current) across that length are constant:
-Narrow wire will offer a smaller cross section through which the electrons might travel... The wire will heat faster because there is a smaller mass through which to distribute the transferred "heat".
-Thicker wire offers a larger cross section for the same number of electrons. The same number of collisions as before (remember, same number of electrons moving through the same type of wire, only thicker this time) will transfer roughly the same amount of heat but there is a greater mass of wire to distribute the heat through... Slower responding wire. In order to make this thicker wire respond as quickly to the resistive heating we will will need to add more electrons (i.e. increase the wattage which increases the current = more electrons).

If you look below at the 22g (.11ohm/inch) and the 30g (.7ohm/inch) you'll see that the resistance of the 30g is almost seven times the resistance of the 22g. What that means is that if I wanted to build a coil at .7ohm I would only need 1 inch of the 30g while I would need (almost) seven inches of the 22g!

AWG 22: Low Resistance (0.11 ohms/inch)
AWG 24: Low Resistance (0.175 ohms/inch)
AWG 26: Low Resistance (0.28 ohms/inch)
AWG 28: Low - Standard Resistance (0.44 ohms/inch)
AWG 30: Low - Standard Resistance (0.70 ohms/ inch)

Wire with a bigger cross-section (thicker) = more "room" for electricity to get through un-impeded. Lower resistance to flow.
Wire with a smaller cross-section (thiner) = less "room" for electricity to get through un-impeded. Higher resistance to flow.

So, what does this mean to us as vapers? That big slow responding coil we've built is going to resist the flow of current only a little bit (and the resistance is what is causing the heat) so it will take longer to heat to a given temperature, but it has a much larger surface area (compared to a thinner wire coil at the same resistance) to vaporize juice on. More power applied to that same coil will allow it to heat faster."

EXPERTS If I'm incorrect in this please let me and the OP know.

 

[opm2008]

This is good stuff! Love the explaination on thicker wires. Thanks! You Rock!