MVP center pin...

[Saltraker]

The center pin on my MVP V2 will not make contact with a couple of my devices...an iClear 30 and an rba, for example. Everytime I want to use these devices, after having used clearos, cartos, etc., I have to pry up the MVP's center pin for it make contact again. Is there a way to fix this so I don't have to fiddle with it all the time? Would installation of a new insulator help? Also, what exactly, if anything, is the center pin attached to? Do I risk dislodging something I can't see when I pry it up? Will it come entirely out of the device without doing any harm? Hoping someone can help me out here. Thanks.

 

[StarsAndBars]

This seems to be a more and more common problem. Instead of prying up the center pin, I filed down the ring that surrounds it. This way I'm able to screw down my tank, RDA, etc just a little further. It works like a charm. A word of caution though. If you file down this ring so far that you file into the air holes (slots), you will want to file deeper notches for them as well. I hope this post makes a lick of sense. I'm not the greatest at describing things I don't know the proper name for.

If you need me to be more specific just let me know. I would recommend this method, as it worked great for my MVP.

 

[Rocketman]

Stars,
You are one of the very few that gets this. Make the center pin longer by making the shell shorter. (0.005" should be enough).
Those that don't know what's under the center pin in an expensive APV just love lifting and jiggling the center pin. The more it moves the more strain that is put on the wire under the pin. If the pin is lose it will also turn each and every time you put a carto on or take if off.
Lifting it up will allow it to make a weak contact with the carto center pin. Barely enough to conduct electricity. Until it moves down again. There is nothing to hold it in place and make a good contact.

 

[Saltraker]

Stars, thanks for the tip...I'm just not sure I want to go and try to file the connector ring. What if I take too much off or get it crooked? I am still confused, Rocket, about what is underneath the pin. Is it wired into the battery? If the pin is completely removed, what happens? Will a new insulator that the pin slides into solve the issue? Now I don't even want to pry it up!

 

[StarsAndBars]

Man, I totally understand your concern about filing away a part of your device. Just think though, every time you pry that center pin up, it will get slightly looser. The best way to file this sucker down is slooowly, a little bit at a time. The small amount that I filed took about ten minutes, so don't feel like it's something you have to rush. File for a minute, then clean out the inside of the threads, try to screw on your tank. If it won't fire, keep filing. I took my time because I take a lot of pride in my belongings, and certainly didn't want to ruin my PV.

A good method is to use the four air slots on the ring for reference on how much you have filed away. Be prepared to have to file into those air slots (it may need to be done). If that is necessary, no big deal, just file the air slot grooves deeper after you're finished.

These are really your only options (and I wouldn't recommend you continue prying the center pin), unless you try and use a spacer of some sort (which I also wouldn't recommend).

One last thing. You may have to file a bit on the beauty ring as well. It sucks that you have to do this and all, but it's really pretty quick and easy to do.

 

[Rocketman]

Most likely, the center pin of the PV is soldered to a short wire going to a small pad on a circuit board. This wire will twist and break and has historically been a high failure point for many PVs.

Lifting the center pin has been about the most recommended method of reducing the life of your PV. There is NO WAY a lifted pin will FIRMLY seat against a carto center pin and make a good low resistance connection. It will just slide back down and make a very weak connection. Unless movement or vibration breaks the connection. Then it's lift the pin again, and again, and - - - -

The other option to removing metal from the connector shell of your PV is to remove some material from the shell of the tank.
Tolerances between different PVs and different tanks, attys or cartos of just a few thousandths of an inch can make the difference between a poor contact, a good contact with a little pressure applied to both insulators, or too hard a connection compressing and potentially damaging an insulator.

Stars pointed out how to monitor the progress with material removal. Watch the air slots as you work. I use a sheet of 400 grit silicon carbide sandpaper on a flat surface.

If it turns out to be the center pin of your carto or tank receding then it might be best to work on that. The last few thousandths of the carto shell are usually beyond the threading and do nothing but get close to shorting out anyway. Whatever method you use, work slowly and clean up any metal residue.

Here's another place to remove a little material to get center pins a little closer together.
I take a single edge razor blade and bevel the inside edge of the carto barrel section to provide a little more clearance to help prevent shorts.

What you are trying to accomplish is center pin contact just before the shells bottom out.

Maybe this would help.

to end up with this.

Every mod is different but this is the type of wire that is connected to the center pin.
There is probably NOT enough wire to get the center pin out, desolder it, replace the insulator, resolder the wire and push it back in. (the little red wire in the pic actually goes to a circuit board, but there is another one just like it that goes to the center pin. Get the point?)

 

[Saltraker]

Thank you to both. I understand what one needs to do. At this point, I'm somewhat leaning to filing the cartos and the two tanks that won't fire, a la Rocketman's suggestions. I know what you are saying, Stars, but I'm still a little scared at messing with the PV itself. If fiddling with the cartos works, then great. But, if I have to fiddle with the PV connector, then I see what I have to do.

It is a drag that one has to do these sorts of things to get the PV to accept and work with whatever you want to put on it. They don't tell you all that when you buy it! I guess it's not quite as "plug and play" for some things.

Thanks again for your help. I'll try to post and let you know how it goes, but it might be a little while. Have other responsibilities other than vaping, you know! Sigh.

 

[thewomenfolk]

Has the maker of the MVP changed the design any, raising up that pin just a bit? Do they know it's a problem?

 

[Rocketman]

Has the maker of the MVP changed the design any, raising up that pin just a bit? Do they know it's a problem?

Seems to be a problem with many PVs. People have been "lifting the center pin" for years.
maybe the carto/tank makers ought to get together with the PV makers and fix this.

The eGo pics I posted are over 2 years old. Nothing new.

 

[thewomenfolk]

I've never had to raise the center pin on an ecig/mod, but I've had to raise the pin on the atty many times. I just use a safety pin. It's a small hassle. I wish all atty makers would just make the spring-loaded pins the mini Vivi Nova's have.