MVP2 not firing..

[Timbuck55]

Everything was working fine.. I charged it and went to put my KFL on it and it wouldn't fire.. Wouldn't fire with my nautilus either. I adjusted the pins and still nothing.. It's reading 0.0ohms.. I got it to at least read both toppers resistance but it still wouldn't fire. No clue how to combat this issue.. Any thoughts?

 

[CreepyLady]

Mine has never had that problem, found this searching - a lot of posts saying to wiggle the tanks a little or use a 510-510 adapter (if you have one). 0.0 resistance means a short or a bad measuring device, make sure that the isolator around the center post is good on the tanks you tried (and give them a whirl on another device if you have one)

also :

I found the culprit, well in my case. Since it was always after a refilling, I decided to remove the rubber cap on top of the coils to look at them. The top coil seemed like it wasn't straight and might even touch the side of the chimney. I took a tweezer and re-centered the top coil. Replaced back the rubber cap. While screwing back top part with the drip tip, I noticed that if you screw it too tight, the rubber cap, coils and chimney start turning. My theory is that this moves the coils and the MVP 2.0 short protection prevent the tank from firing. So I just screwed it back snug but not tight and everything works perfect as before."

 

[MikeMills]

When mine starts acting up I usually clean out the connector socket and try to wiggle the center pin on the MVP up a tad.

I use a paper clip.

 

[jefsview]

Does the button light flash or stay on after attempting to fire, or does it go out when you take your finger off?

 

[Timbuck55]

Both the tanks were working fine before this problem started happening. I did clean the connection with a Q-tip and hot water. Also, it button flashes green and then goes off.

 

[Maestro]

0.0 indicates a short. Try it with no tank and see if you get "NON".

 

[Timbuck55]

0.0 indicates a short. Try it with no tank and see if you get "NON".

I'm not home right now, will do when I get home.. But I'm pretty sure I did that earlier and I did indeed get a non.

 

[suspectK]

Check pin.. see if anything is touching threading area.

If it was just the kayfun, I'd say look if the positive block moved, insulator is in tact, and that pin isn't making contact with body...I don't have experience with nautalis.

37, ph0n3 h0m3.

 

[Timbuck55]

Check pin.. see if anything is touching threading area.

If it was just the kayfun, I'd say look if the positive block moved, insulator is in tact, and that pin isn't making contact with body...I don't have experience with nautalis.

37, ph0n3 h0m3.

I'm assuming the insulator is the rubber piece under the pin on the MVP2 correct?

 

[Maestro]

I'm not home right now, will do when I get home.. But I'm pretty sure I did that earlier and I did indeed get a non.

If this is the case, then your MVP is doing what it's supposed to do. It's recognizing a short and refusing to fire. Either you have a short in your tank, or putting the tank on is causing a short in your MVP, like pushing the center pin against the wall.

 

[Timbuck55]

If this is the case, then your MVP is doing what it's supposed to do. It's recognizing a short and refusing to fire. Either you have a short in your tank, or putting the tank on is causing a short in your MVP, like pushing the center pin against the wall.

I'm thinking that the tanks are causing the pin to hit the wall because my pin is off centered. Unfortunately that was my only way to check ohms so I just had to buy an ohm checker which I've been putting off.

 

[suspectK]

I'm assuming the insulator is the rubber piece under the pin on the MVP2 correct?

The insulator I'm talking about is underneath the positive block of the kayfun. There's also an insulator where the 510pin is..this is why an ohm reader comes in handy. Take everything to a good shop when you can. They should have everything to troubleshoot things.

37, ph0n3 h0m3.

 

[Timbuck55]

The insulator I'm talking about is underneath the positive block of the kayfun. There's also an insulator where the 510pin is..this is why an ohm reader comes in handy. Take everything to a good shop when you can. They should have everything to troubleshoot things.

37, ph0n3 h0m3.

Ya I'm going to go tomorrow and get it checked out. Maybe they will have an ohm reader and I'll just buy another.. Can't hurt to have two I'm sure.

 

[aage]

Its a total junk how they build the MVP. I bought one and it didnt work out of the box. Took it apart and saw how its made, there are two flat batterys soldered together , then some cirquit board and from there a two VERY THIN wires goes up to the digital display ( one of the wire on mine was badly soldered and didnt give a contact. Replaced the wire but it didnt ever work as it should. Ended up on taking it apart and now using it as a platform to build put Tanks on for building coils ,,, . I also bought a VTR and it has been working fine and use it daily. Would never buy MVP again.

 

[milescadre]

until I started butchering my MVP, I never had a problem with it. Its a very common issue, however, for the center pin to get pushed down from over tightening tanks. thisi s because there is no standard for the center pins depth, and one tank will vary from another. Its always important to snug down the tank, then snug the beauty ring up against the tank so that it doesnt unscrew.

That being out ofthe way, as mentione above, 0.0 indicates a short. NON indicates no connection.

So the very first thing I'd do is check the tanks and center pin to make sure there are no shorts. The secodn thing I'd do is get a fresh tank (even if its a ce4) and check its resistance after attachign it to the mvp. this may potentially eliminate the device and could be a shorting coil. if the device still reads 0.0, then we know the device is faulty and if theres no sign of the center pin shorting outside, the wires inside could be crossing or worst, the internal circuit board could hav gone bad.

But before jumping to conclusions, I'd try a fresh tank out of the package to see if its the device. if everyhitng checks out, just swap coils on your old tanks ^^

 

[Timbuck55]

until I started butchering my MVP, I never had a problem with it. Its a very common issue, however, for the center pin to get pushed down from over tightening tanks. thisi s because there is no standard for the center pins depth, and one tank will vary from another. Its always important to snug down the tank, then snug the beauty ring up against the tank so that it doesnt unscrew.

That being out ofthe way, as mentione above, 0.0 indicates a short. NON indicates no connection.

So the very first thing I'd do is check the tanks and center pin to make sure there are no shorts. The secodn thing I'd do is get a fresh tank (even if its a ce4) and check its resistance after attachign it to the mvp. this may potentially eliminate the device and could be a shorting coil. if the device still reads 0.0, then we know the device is faulty and if theres no sign of the center pin shorting outside, the wires inside could be crossing or worst, the internal circuit board could hav gone bad.

But before jumping to conclusions, I'd try a fresh tank out of the package to see if its the device. if everyhitng checks out, just swap coils on your old tanks ^^

Ya, it's def the MVP. I tried 3 only tanks on it and it registers 0.0 and when no tank on it it registers non. When I try to fire with a tank on the green button stays on longer then normal. With all that being said, the pin has to be the culprit. I tried to adjust it and it wiggles and has a little too much play. It just doesn't look right.

 

[Added]

Ya, it's def the MVP. I tried 3 only tanks on it and it registers 0.0 and when no tank on it it registers non. When I try to fire with a tank on the green button stays on longer then normal. With all that being said, the pin has to be the culprit. I tried to adjust it and it wiggles and has a little too much play. It just doesn't look right.

I had this same problem with my MVP also. Here is a temp. fix you can do that works well.

First take a collar that goes around the outer threads. Tighten it all the way down, but make sure it's fairly loose on the last bit of threading.

Then put your tank on and tighten it all the way down. Once that's on and it reads 0.0 you're going to want to ( in small increments ) back out the tank. You will get random resistance readings while doing this. Keep backing it out slowly and keep in mind to hold the base steady when doing it. Once you get a reading above 1.3 you can then take the collar only and back it out until it hits the bottom of your tank. The tricky part is to not spin the tank while snugging the collar up to it.

This is only a temp. fix remind you, and it's better to have the pin fixed or replace the MVP, but this is what I did until I could grab a mod I wanted.

 

[Maestro]

I would try putting an o-ring over the pin. That should straighten it up and keep it from touching the sides. If the problem is internal, you have no choice but to take it apart.