My cheapest mech mod hits the hardest.. What gives?
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You didn't specify but I assume you are using the same atty and battery when switching between them?
As others have said you can change the contact pins out on most mods to varying effect, but If I were you I'd resell the ones you don't care for unless you're starting a collection.
If you have multiple attys just build a touch lower resistance (within a safe limit) on the mods that aren't doing it for you.
As others have said you can change the contact pins out on most mods to varying effect, but If I were you I'd resell the ones you don't care for unless you're starting a collection.
If you have multiple attys just build a touch lower resistance (within a safe limit) on the mods that aren't doing it for you.
It's not my intent to cast shade on your comments @tj99959... and certainly not to say that you were the "ground zero" for these, sadly all to commonly held, "beliefs".
Rather, my goal is to stab those false beliefs in the heart... and replace them well documented and established facts.
Why voltage drop matters...
When built correctly, and by that I mean the wire gauge and coil count in parallel are optimized for the Ohm's law derived wattage available and balanced against desired (or adequate) heat flux... resistance equates directly to coil net surface area.
More surface area equals more juice can be vaporized within a given time... as well as denser, and frequently more favorable vapor. Increasing the net resistance, to compensate for the poor conductivity of a questionable mod... reduces coil surface area.
Comments regarding materials...
Most SS tube mods do not have excessive voltage loss because they are SS, rather they have voltage loss due to poor design and/or poor manufacture.
Not everyone who makes mechs has degrees in mechanical and electrical engineering... if they did, we'd have fewer crap authentic mods.
Copper and brass can promote, by typically no more than a few hundredths of a volt, improved conductivity in well designed and produced mods. Those materials can even compensate, to a slightly greater degree, for poor fits and contact finishes... but a mod designed and manufactured for zero voltage loss (within the common form factor of single tube mods), will have near zero ~ zero voltage loss, regardless of external metals.
In addition, all to frequently, VD is blamed on the mod, rather than the quality of the battery, the questionable accuracy of the equipment used to determine VD... not to mention, the questionable intelligence of the tester.
One only has to look at the completely unbiased, constant load and power supply methodology provided in - Jon Kuro's tube mech mod voltage drop testing - to realize that mech mod body metals are minor, rather than major contributors to VD.
I own five SS mods. When using high quality, one-thousands resolution, measuring equipment, all have less than 0.009 (nine thousands of a volt) voltage drop with a 0.5Ω load, and two have no more than .005 measurable loss.
All have 316S bodies and caps, all have silver or palladium plated copper battery and 510 contacts, all have sub .001" switch fitments, large conductance surface areas, close tolerance pockets for spring or magnets, butter smooth threading with tight lock-up... one even has a titanium button, promoting reduced magnetic repulsion requirements and felt resistance.
Returning for a moment to Jkuro's test series... Jon produced a small quantity of tube mech mods, with the intent of producing consistent, zero VD values... with no effort spared, including that titanium button.
I own Kuro Concepts mod [HASHTAG]#012[/HASHTAG]... and the passionate attention to detail, quality of tolerance, materials (all SS tubes and caps), fit and finish equal or better the lowest resistance, and quite frequently the most expensive mods tested. Money invested in functionality and precision, rather than looks and useless cosmetics.
Thanks for reading.
I am no nitpicker of vdrop myself, but there's more to it. The mods that don't "hit hard" also waste more energy. Which is quite noticeable on run time when 18350s is ones size of choice.
Keep in mind our mods have (hyperbole alert) more in common with a chunk of metal than a cable. (Please note hyperbole alert)
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In other news
A pointy end on one of them wooden mods might do the trick, too. Reminds me,
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The fuhattan performs very well that's why. They have a very low voltage loss. I love mine. I have the copper and aluminum one and they both perform great.
Absolutely, 100%, plus one, like 1000 times.
I'd like to add that I really don't like the term voltage drop as it's used in the vaping community, and here's why.
Let's say you have an atomizer setup that has a total resistance of 0.5 ohms, and (just to exaggerate the results) a mod with a total resistance of 0.2 ohms across the body, threads, and switch.
With a battery putting out 4.0 volts, your current would be 5.7 amps. Voltage drop in this instance would be 1.14 volts across the mod (Current times resistance).
With a freshly charged battery, not accounting for voltage droop of the battery itself, current would be 6 amps, and voltage drop across the mod would be 1.2 volts.
Things get even more skewed when you lower the resistance of the atomizer.
Did the mod get worse? No, it didn't. Its internal resistance (if everything is clean, tight, and contact surfaces are mating properly) is for all practical purposes a fixed value.
I think "we" need to get away from discussing voltage drop and look at the real culprit, the internal resistance of the mod.
That being said, as you inferred, in a properly designed and built mod, at the voltages and currents that we operate at, voltage drop should be a non-issue. Although the resistance of stainless steel is greater than that of copper (relatively speaking) we're still talking values measured in the micro-ohm range.
Really interesting
Is there a way to get the mod internal resistance?
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I understand all that, and yes it makes a difference. BUT, within reason, how much does a small difference matter?
For example, I often use a little mechanical (Mako) with an aluminum body & brass caps & pins with a 14500 battery. I've never measure the VD with a 0.5 ohm load because I would never go that low with such a small battery, but with the 1.8 ohm load that I use the drop is 0.2 ohms (what do you expect from a 2009 design).
My point is that I would use a 2.2 ohm coil to get the same vape from the same atty (A7) on my Carevela.
The lower you go with the coil resistance, the more voltage drop matters. ..... Solution ............. don't go so damn low with the resistance.
With a + ohm coil you won't even notice a 0.1 ohm difference in voltage drop. A few hits will have more VD than that. So the extreme accuracy that you mention would only matter for one hit on a mechanical. After that, it only matters how fast the battery drains.
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