Paul -
All you gotta do man is go get a peice of a copper rod, cut it to size of one of your CR2's and put it in place of one of your batteries..
-Jim
My DIY - DSE901 - MAGNUM POWER
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Paul -
All you gotta do man is go get a peice of a copper rod, cut it to size of one of your CR2's and put it in place of one of your batteries..
-Jim
Are you doing penstyle or Mini or other?? Penstyle atomizers have a habit of melting the white plastic part of the cart on 6v. I made a 6v penstyle mod out of a battery box and HATED it. Even with dripping it tasted nasty. DSE901 and RN 4075 atomizers fare well on 6v, as long as you keep them really wet, and also if you can find a way to keep the hole open on the postitive terminal battery connector for more airflow that makes a difference too.
tire valve connector video...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/3921-video-diy-atomizer-connection-dse901-no-need-dead-battery.html
make sure vehicle has come to a complete stop before removal.
houg I cannot specifically answer your question due to many years of damaged brains cells, keep in mind that if you resist the flow of voltage, you will also limit the amount of current, too. You want to be as close to 1000mA as possible.
Once you get the hang of high-voltage vaping, it is quite satisfactory. Definitely more full-strength analog-like. I have found that some of my juices do not taste as good vaporized at 6v, though.
Once you get the hang of high-voltage vaping, it is quite satisfactory. Definitely more full-strength analog-like. I have found that some of my juices do not taste as good vaporized at 6v, though.
you can use 1N4004 rectifier diodes between the battery + connection and the atomizer connector. Each rectifier diode will give you appox .8v decrease. I used two in series with each other and my 2 CR2's went from 6.7 volts fully charged down to 5.5 volts.
RadioShack.com
esmkr209
RadioShack.com
esmkr209
Thanks for the info! I hope this thread never gets deleted, I will lose tons of valuable info.
On the CR123 side of things, I tried using one of mine but they are not rechargable and are only 3v. I will have to order some rechargables and I found that my DX CR2 charger will work for those also.
This is what I found at the hardware stor for a spacer anyway to bridge the space.
You know Paul, I gave you the same tip just doing it with copper instead of the way you did it.. LOL!!! I get no credit at all... SHEESH!! Just teasin ya man.. It's good to see you figured it out. 
-Jim
-Jim
Hello Everyone!
I just wanted to let you know that I've already begun construction on my new magnum. With a few ideas from myself and my father, we've come up with a couple ways to make it more "repairable", should something go wrong.
I also want to take this time to thank everyone who's come up with ideas and posted them. I've been doing alot of studying and finding ways to apply them to my upcoming mods. So thanks again, and let's keep this going!
-Jim
MAKE SURE TO CATCH MY REVIEW ON MY RUBY MAG TOMORROW!
I just wanted to let you know that I've already begun construction on my new magnum. With a few ideas from myself and my father, we've come up with a couple ways to make it more "repairable", should something go wrong.
I also want to take this time to thank everyone who's come up with ideas and posted them. I've been doing alot of studying and finding ways to apply them to my upcoming mods. So thanks again, and let's keep this going!
-Jim
MAKE SURE TO CATCH MY REVIEW ON MY RUBY MAG TOMORROW!
Ok, Jim, what ideas? I like the idea of repairable.
On my next one, I planned on assemblying as follows:
7/8" retaining ring to sit on the inner rim of the flashlight. This give a better seat to the spring that provides the ground.
7/8" Spring sets on top of the retaining ring.
PCB with the positive battery spring.
Switch & led covered with the led housing.
atomzier connector/circuit board . Loose fitting with a set screw coming from the side to keep it from spinning when screwing on and off the atomizer.
Another 7/8" retaining ring holding the atomizer connector/cuircut board in. The retaining ring sets in the groove that the flashlight lense use to set in.
Disassembly is done by removing the top retaining ring.
I will start on this one when we get our circuit boards in, hopefully this week.
Any other ideas out there???????????????
-Paul
On my next one, I planned on assemblying as follows:
7/8" retaining ring to sit on the inner rim of the flashlight. This give a better seat to the spring that provides the ground.
7/8" Spring sets on top of the retaining ring.
PCB with the positive battery spring.
Switch & led covered with the led housing.
atomzier connector/circuit board . Loose fitting with a set screw coming from the side to keep it from spinning when screwing on and off the atomizer.
Another 7/8" retaining ring holding the atomizer connector/cuircut board in. The retaining ring sets in the groove that the flashlight lense use to set in.
Disassembly is done by removing the top retaining ring.
I will start on this one when we get our circuit boards in, hopefully this week.
Any other ideas out there???????????????
-Paul
Radio shack has a cool tactile switch...takes up alot less room than the threaded micro switch.
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That is the switch madog used in his video. I detest those little buggers. They are best used on a circuit board and are impossible to glue onto the inside of the flashlight, for me. I gave up on them in favor of the threaded micro switch for ease of installation and more the more robust solder connection points.
I do use the tactiles in my AA box mod and a PS pass-through I repaired last evening.
SPST 12VDC/50mA 5.0mm High Tact Switch - RadioShack.com These come in various button lengths up to 9mm.
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