Here's a pic where my thumbs are does that wall come out ? Also noticed one coil In every build one glows faster then the other tried am the trips and tricks coils are flush grubs are snug
My experince with the reload rta has been a nightmare
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Slow down a little with your posts, it's hard to make heads or tails of what you're saying. This is your deck:
The PEEK (gray plastic) you see in there is the insulator to your positive post. YES, it comes apart, YES, it is critically important that you have this seated correctly and securely.
PLEASE keep this thing off a mech until you get things sorted. Flames are not ok. Discolouration of your grub screws means they have gotten INCREDIBLY hot.
I'm not trying to be nasty but some things force blunt conversations. Take that thing off your mech and learn your atomizer.
[EDIT] I haven't got the slightest clue about that RTA, for what it's worth. I'm mentioning this because I don't need to. This is foundational stuff we're talking about here.
I run it on a regulated and the grubs aren't discolored this thing came slanted how it is in my picture
There was alot of juice after I pulled the wicks out noticed that side with the insulator had some bubbles between it and caught some flame nothing bad just never seen it
Guess the nightmare isn't over lol the flavors been way better now that I got coils placed
How would I take the insulator off? Just unscrew the 510
There was alot of juice after I pulled the wicks out noticed that side with the insulator had some bubbles between it and caught some flame nothing bad just never seen it
Guess the nightmare isn't over lol the flavors been way better now that I got coils placed
How would I take the insulator off? Just unscrew the 510
Man, couldn't be happier to have misidentified the mod in that pic.
Yes, the positive block is (generally) attached directly to the 510, so simply unscrewing it and reseating the positive block should fix the issue... but you're going to lose your build.
You might be able to salvage the coils if it just needs a minor adjustment, but I would be pulling that block out for a proper inspection first. Most positive blocks get wrenched down stupidly hard from the factory and if it was installed off kilter it may have damaged or destroyed the integrity of the insulator.
Lesson learned. Always, always inspect a new atomizer and ideally take it to bits completely to familiarize yourself with it (and wash it besides).
Thanks for clarifying the blue/flames part, BTW. Sounds like you just torched your juice when dry burning.
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With the flame yeah I will take it all apart these coils are out of my ammit 25 they fit perfect and got flavor back
With the flame everything was blue yeah I will take it all apart these coils are out of my ammit 25 they fit perfect and got flavor back
Sweet took it all apart everything looks more straight got the coils in slightly higher than they were looks good coils glowing even
Glad it all fit together again. A damaged insulator would be a serious kick in the teeth after all the struggles thus far!
It looked fine it's some what slanted but before the corner was literally touching the wall defo had burn scuff on inside of the post
Tasting really good now
my advacado grub screws should be here Monday excited for flat heads instead of these Allen keys I just use my tweezer slightly turned them tightened or lose and boom instant glowing in the middle from both instead of one ramping up slow
Getting that Clapton spit back now too
Tasting really good now
my advacado grub screws should be here Monday excited for flat heads instead of these Allen keys I just use my tweezer slightly turned them tightened or lose and boom instant glowing in the middle from both instead of one ramping up slowGetting that Clapton spit back now too
Back to feeling my ammit 25 gets better flavor than my reload some type coils and ohms watts
Come back to the Reload when you're prepared to get into rebuilding (not quite what you're doing now). Expecting the same results from the same coil and settings on a different atomizer never works well unless lucky by coincidence. I believe I mentioned earlier in this thread that we're talking about minute changes sometimes making massive differences. Using premade coils is severely limiting your potential.
That said, if you never plan to make coils yourself, maybe time to just sell or pay forward the Reload and vape on with what you're happy with. I know I'd balk at the thought of working out the sweet spot on an atty using expensive coils.
Lol the new coils I got aren't premade got no issue with the kyling manta ammit 25 and few other tanks just the reload I seem to struggle with
Nice those are 26 30 Clapton 316l 6 wraps ohms out at .34 and goes up to .4ish when vaping
I don't truly get steam engine or vape tool so I use a wire do some wraps and write the ohms down n try to replicate it so far been good
Hard to determine what's best for me still
I don't truly get steam engine or vape tool so I use a wire do some wraps and write the ohms down n try to replicate it so far been good
Hard to determine what's best for me still
We stand corrected! Still wouldn't give up on the thing. Unless you find coiling tedious and/or frustrating I'd be keeping at it, but I obsess over my rebuildable until they're "perfect".
Steam Engine can be overwhelming, but the information itself, like most things in vaping, is pretty simple. It's just that there are a million interconnected simple things to deal with at once.
I'm tired of buying premades and spools I just want a warm dense vape between 70 90 is where I vape I gave up on preserving battery life
I use ss 316l fused claptons. 2*26g/36g 8 wraps 3mm id. .18 ohms at 70 watts. I make all my wire with the Avidartisan Daedalus and wrap my own coils.
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