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Welcome to the mad house of happy vapers. If you any questions pop in and ask away. Half of us will be glad to help.... the other half are chomping at the bit to help.
BTW We never grow out of the all excited and everything stage.
BTW We never grow out of the all excited and everything stage.
Yep, that's me. I never did figure that one out. I tried and failed a couple more times with hand twisted wire, then I broke out the Dremel. I started it too fast and it pulled the wire out of the hemostats I was holding them with and the wire swung around and whipped the crap out of my leg. After cleaning and bandaging the lacerations, I decided that I was no longer interested in trying twisted wire coils.
It was you and a few other Reo fanatics from that micro coil thread that lead me down the path that brought me here. Thanks.
Hey Rabernet, I remember you from the BP forums. Small world. I haven't been on there for a few years though. I sold off my breeding stock a few years ago when my son turned 16 and stopped being so interested in helping with the business.
I am so thankful to not have to drip anymore. My job requires me to drive around all day. I hate fiddling with tanks and I hate dripping and driving. This really is perfect for me.
I do have a few questions that have come up today that maybe some of you can help me with.
First, the rba has a little side to side travel in it. I put the o ring that came with the RM2 in the drip well and screwed the atomizer on until the hole was facing up. It was a little crooked so I applied very light pressure to straighten it and noticed that the thing will rock side to side slightly. I tightened it up a little more so the air hole is a little passed center facing up, but it didn't stop the rocking. I haven't applied more than very slight pressure to it out of fear of damaging it. It worries me that the connection might break off in my pocket. Is this normal?
Second, there is no way that I can see to lock this button. Is there something I'm missing or is there a lockable replacement that I can purchase?
Third, I was having some issues today with it not firing consistently. Sometimes the button just wouldn't fire the coil. I took some 120 grit sand paper to the contact point and dabbed a small amount of noalox on it. Not sure if it fixed the problem or not. It happened once again shortly after I did that. I'm using button top AW IMR 18650 1600mAh batteries and my coil is sitting right at 1ohm if that info helps with the diagnosis.
Oooh, I can help with this one! You can turn the fire button towards the back and it locks.
See, see, I'm helpful!
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk 4
Yes, both of mine do this.
grab the button and turn it clockwise and it will be locked, turn it counter clockwise to unlock. It should have 90 degrees of travel. If you look closely you'll see a little pin sticking out of the button than moves when you rotate it. It's possible the PO broke the pin so it would not lock.
Possible you locked it by accident? Does the button travel as far when it won't fire as it will when it does?
The button has 360 degrees of horizontal travel. There is no pin on the button post. The button traveled all the way down when it wasn't firing. I think the noalox has fixed the firing problem though. It only has happened once since and that could have been caused by me and my stupid fat thumb. I'll have to spend some more time with it to know for sure.
Then the previous owner broke the pin because they did not like accidently locking. If you get the rebuild kit from the website it will have a new button and I think the pin is in it.
Ooh, there should be a little pin. Looks like you got it used. It does lock on its often, so it's possible the previous owner removed it, mayhaps? And if the noalox helped, the previous owner prolly didn't clean it properly.
I'm sure if you really need the locking part (and can part with it long enough) Rob can fix it for you.
Edit: I was late. Also, rebuild kit would work too, as noted above.
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk 4
I just want to let you all know that I now know why this mod gets so much love. I was skeptical going into this. I've bought and used so many other devices that were supposed to be the best, never need another, perfect solution to all of vaping's problems. None of them were without issues. I've had this device for one day and I'm sold. Aside from the couple minor issues I've had today, which I am sure are because I bought a used mod, I cannot find one thing I don't like about this. I almost bought a Reo a couple of years ago, but I got sucked into the variable volt hype and bought a Provari instead. Then about a year and a half ago I was looking at the Reo, but I went with a hybrid with the new genesis tank that everyone was all jazzed about. I got into mech mods with rebuildable atomizers a couple months ago and was really digging the performance I was getting but HATING having to drip constantly and having a juice mess and sticky fingers all the time. The Reo is the perfect solution, and is everything I have been chasing all these years. I wish I would have just pulled the trigger on that Reo years ago.
I was just noticing in your pics that the button top looks to be down pretty far. Older button tops would slide down far enough so the REO would not fire. An easy fix is to pry it off and stick a little wad of paper inside then put it back on. New button tops have been fixed so it is not usually a problem.
The REO button does not usually have to travel down too far to fire. Some people tend to mash the button hard. A good way to find out how hard to push is to hold the atty to your ear and slightly push the button. When you hear the atty fire you know that is as far/hard as you need to push.
Pushing hard with a button top can lead to the top moving down. Like I said before, Robert did a fix to them but it can still happen.
The REO button does not usually have to travel down too far to fire. Some people tend to mash the button hard. A good way to find out how hard to push is to hold the atty to your ear and slightly push the button. When you hear the atty fire you know that is as far/hard as you need to push.
Pushing hard with a button top can lead to the top moving down. Like I said before, Robert did a fix to them but it can still happen.
Problem fixed! Thank you. I had noticed that even with the button fully depressed it was barely contacting the button top on the battery. The point on the contact would not come close to firing a battery without a button top. A little bit of paper in the button should hold me over until I can order the rebuild kit. Thank you again.
Kristian we have all been beginners also. Some it took longer to get to the Reo's than others. Like many say sometimes it takes all the other to appreciate the ease of a Reo. Congrats on your purchase. I am by far an expert but love the forums and the members. They have helped me along my journey. Come and join us in the Reo Lounge also. There are SO many awesome people who are so anxious to help everyone out. They are my second loving family. BTW my name is Cheri and am so happy for you my dear!
That rebuild kit is super easy to install. I've done two now and its fun, you really get to see how the reo works. Rob has an easy to follow video on his site once your ready to rebuild.
This sounds like an atty connector issue.
I am very "particular" about this and have always either bought new or sent my reo's to Robert for a rebuild, because I HAVE to have that instant, unmistakeable press-the-button-and-it-fires experience. If I get any "sputtering" instead of instant smoothness, it drives me nuts.
Sounds like since the firing pin was disabled too, you may want to either buy a rebuild kit or send it in for a rebuild?
I'm glad NERAK figured out about the button top batt ...... my first instinct was that the previous owner used longer non AW batts, maybe ICRs, and your spring got compressed ever-so-slightly. A batt that is too long will tend to over-compress the spring, and in time it gets mashed down. This isn't good either, so you want to stick to good AWs.
I also agree to do rebuild yourself, cuz yes, you learn how it all works in there.
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This sounds like an atty connector issue.
I am very "particular" about this and have always either bought new or sent my reo's to Robert for a rebuild, because I HAVE to have that instant, unmistakeable press-the-button-and-it-fires experience. If I get any "sputtering" instead of instant smoothness, it drives me nuts.
Sounds like since the firing pin was disabled too, you may want to either buy a rebuild kit or send it in for a rebuild?
I'm glad NERAK figured out about the button top batt ...... my first instinct was that the previous owner used longer non AW batts, maybe ICRs, and your spring got compressed ever-so-slightly. A batt that is too long will tend to over-compress the spring, and in time it gets mashed down. This isn't good either, so you want to stick to good AWs.
I also agree to do rebuild yourself, cuz yes, you learn how it all works in there.
After having some reassurance on the atty travel observation not being an issue for others and having some time to really look at what is going on under the hood, I am certain that the connection is good and not opening. Open at the atty connection was actually one of my first thoughts. I am convinced that it is just rocking because the center post protrudes form the bottom of the atty and contacts snug before the rest of the threads can be tightened. At first I thought it was the o-ring but same thing happens without it. The insulators appears to be intact on the center pin in both the mod and the RM2. Open at the connection is not completely ruled out yet, but not top of the list at this point...(I need to pick up a new properly working DMM soon).
The seller sent me 2 brand new springs with the mod. I'm rocking one of them right now. The one that came out doesn't look compressed compared to the new ones. I'm thinking the button was the problem. The top cap on the switch was so compressed onto the switch post that I had to mash it down hard to get it to contact the battery. After applying NERAK's paper wad solution to the top cap, the switch has travel to spare. The pin contacts the battery after about 2/3 of the button travel, leaving plenty of head room and I have not experienced this issue since.
I will be rebuilding this, but I am holding out for the new low voltage drop kit that is mentioned in this thread. I'm going to try to "paper wad" this thing until that happens. I'm already in the dog house with the wife for buying this used off the classifieds right after I had just spent a bunch of money on a large quantity of unflavored 100mg nic juice for the freezer in anticipation of the FDA vapocalypse. I'm grounded from the credit card for at least the rest of the month, maybe longer if the checks don't start coming in a little bigger and faster.
Makes total sense.
For a new reo owner your "reo IQ" is in the gifted range.
You are also a good detective!Oh goodie, I can't WAIT to read feedback from everybody about that kit!
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