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Great work again jburns, you've got a marvelous contraption here. Are you using 6-60 screws and 3/4 copper tubing? I would love to see more detail of the atty connector, if you might have some more pics, please post. Also what is the plastic spacer made of? I bet this looks real nice with your juice attachment mod 
Did you do this at work or at home? I've been wondering if a modified trumpet valve assembly would fit 14500's and a 3ml bottle.
Did you do this at work or at home? I've been wondering if a modified trumpet valve assembly would fit 14500's and a 3ml bottle.The rod I used is brass .125 in diameter and cut the threads at the end with a 6nc32 die. Used the same size acorn nuts. The 2 rod Idea I stole from you asdaq works great because you can use any length tube. if i want to make a tube for 1 cr2 i can and just use longer springs. I may make another tube that has the juice attachment mod brazed to it so I can switch them out when I want. The Battery tube is pretty close to 3/4in. Its a little smaller, more like 11/16. I dont have any 14500's to check a trumpet valve with so if you can measure that battery I will check. Sounds like a great idea.
The plastic spacer is just a nylon spacer I found at the hardware store.
Most of it I made at home but a few parts a made on a jewelers lathe we have at the shop. Like the connector and the base for the switch. I will take some photos of all the parts soon.
The plastic spacer is just a nylon spacer I found at the hardware store.
Most of it I made at home but a few parts a made on a jewelers lathe we have at the shop. Like the connector and the base for the switch. I will take some photos of all the parts soon.
MMMmmm, lathe. 6-32 is what I was thinking, but had 4-40 on the brain. I do prefer metrics for this stuff, much simpler. So the rods aren't threaded all the way with sleeves? Very nice indeed. Do they screw into the switch plate? That would be quite an elegant solution and keep it all from shifting in a side to side rotating motion. Have you got a safety mechanism for the switch? It seems fairly easy to do, although I haven't found a need, but with yours it looks tricky to carry in a pocket
A 14500 is 14mm x 52mm, or 2mm longer than a standard AA battery. It would be a shame to take valves off a working instrument, but from used parts that have been replaced... I wonder how many people run over trumpets backing out of the driveway in a SUV.
Can't wait for more pics, I could drool over them all day long.
A 14500 is 14mm x 52mm, or 2mm longer than a standard AA battery. It would be a shame to take valves off a working instrument, but from used parts that have been replaced... I wonder how many people run over trumpets backing out of the driveway in a SUV.
Can't wait for more pics, I could drool over them all day long.
Very nice. If you get the Tenergy 3V RCR123A LiPO's (17 X 35mm, seems you got about 22mm to work with) you'd have a safer mod and a sweeter voltage at a hair over 5V vaping.
The other nice thing about tube mods like yours is the ability to install the batts with the positive end down. The batts vent holes are usually in the positive button. If there is any venting it will be away from your face.
Food for thought.
The other nice thing about tube mods like yours is the ability to install the batts with the positive end down. The batts vent holes are usually in the positive button. If there is any venting it will be away from your face.
Food for thought.
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You are correct. I had quickly measured a chunk of 3/4" Type M copper water pipe. It comes in at about 20mm (with my glasses on) actually. Very loose fit for an 18650.WB, 7/8" gives you 22mm, this is a bit more than 17, maybe 18 and a hair
Not to worry. It's getting to the point that that sort of precise stuff I see better without my glasses. Also, I've been avoiding plumbing supplies, but now I see the measurements are gauged by ID, nominal, and the OD are much bigger. And all the caps and fittings are also bigger, nice. Time to revisit the plumbing section.
I thought I had, that one was my goto for the better part of the summer, here is a more recent version:
Since I've switched to just a countersunk brass screw so it is flush with the inner valve ring and needs less of a spacer and a finishing washer to make the outer part longer.
Since I've switched to just a countersunk brass screw so it is flush with the inner valve ring and needs less of a spacer and a finishing washer to make the outer part longer.
Here a few photos of how I did the switch and the connector. The connector is overkill, i didn't need the spring or the cup that holds the spring. I am going to take that out and make the tube a bit shorter.
in the second photo the top row of parts are the switch. The button is a part you can get at the hardware store (when i go back i will find out what they are called) and the nylon washer is taped to match the threads on the thingy my button goes into. the nylon washer bolts it onto the brass plate.
.018 to .024 guitar strings are for good springs and are easy to make. although I made none of the spring in this mod.
I used 5/16 hex brass to make the connector and the "thingy" in the switch. (which looks like a bolt that holds guitar tuning keys together which could work also)
Asdaq, I did tap the bottom plate and screwed the side posts into it, then brazed them in and filed them flat on the bottom. I only brazed them because I goofed up some of the threads otherwise i probably wouldn't have.
in the second photo the top row of parts are the switch. The button is a part you can get at the hardware store (when i go back i will find out what they are called) and the nylon washer is taped to match the threads on the thingy my button goes into. the nylon washer bolts it onto the brass plate.
.018 to .024 guitar strings are for good springs and are easy to make. although I made none of the spring in this mod.
I used 5/16 hex brass to make the connector and the "thingy" in the switch. (which looks like a bolt that holds guitar tuning keys together which could work also)
Asdaq, I did tap the bottom plate and screwed the side posts into it, then brazed them in and filed them flat on the bottom. I only brazed them because I goofed up some of the threads otherwise i probably wouldn't have.
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Real nice work indeed! If you take out the spring and the cup, you will need to be very exact with shortening the tube to make sure the contact is right. Is the mystery part a screw for one piece and a threaded post for the other? I got a couple of short alu ones but never put them to good use. Your thingy is great too, from the guitar do you mean the bolts on the inside of the head like here?
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