My Riva undressed. Battery exploded view

[Colonel]

I recently destroyed one of my Riva batteries. I have had contact issues before. No prob. Charging issues solved. But this time, I knew I melted it. Lol.

I would have been upset. But I have 3 other batteries and was actually a bit excited because I could take it apart and see what's in there.

Here it is. (I hope the images work)



The LED is stuck on. I'll cut the wires. You can see the burnt spot on the top of the chip. I don't know why they don't put the chip at the bottom. Another two inches of wire shouldn't cost too much.


You can also see the ground for the casing at the bottom of the battery sleeve.



Well. That's it. My melted Riva. Lesson learned. Be patient while dripping new flavors on low resistance.

On the plus side; I've got some parts to make a mod. Woopy.

FYI. The battery was not blinking rapidly or acting like it was working. The LED would barely light. Then sometimes would turn on by itself. Then eventually just stayed on. This was my signal that the chip was meted. Complete chaos. No rhyme or reason to the LED indicator. If the LED blinks consistently or won't turn on at all, you most likely have a connection problem in the battery seat or the atty or carto you're using.

 

[Dudeman]

It wouldn't matter where they put the circuit board. It still would have fried. That's the downfall with these batteries and the exact reason I no longer use them. There is no short circuit protection built in.

If you get something like this: Emergency AA Battery Mobile Phone Charger Nokia MOTO SE | eBay you can make your own No-eGo that will take a 14500 battery. I've made a few. Goodprophets sells an eGo circuit board for $4 as well if you want to go the rebuilding route.

 

[Colonel]

I was thinking it got burnt from the heat moving through the atty.

But I guess it makes sense that too much power moving through the chip is probably to blame.

Thanks.

 

[roadrash]

big Question is, how you took it apart? i have a brand new one that is fully charged and just flashes when you screw the attie on.

Was gonna take it apart. But most of the time i'm a backyard mechanic working on a Rolex. LOL

 

[Colonel]

big Question is, how you took it apart? i have a brand new one that is fully charged and just flashes when you screw the attie on.

Was gonna take it apart. But most of the time i'm a backyard mechanic working on a Rolex. LOL

The top (atty connection and switch) and bottom (cap) are pressed into the tube that houses the battery. No glue, no screws.

I only took this one apart because I knew it was done. I can not speak for the way it would go back together. I'm sure that the fittings would not be nearly as tight. It may be ok with a touch if glue? But I'm not sure.

I'm just going to make a mod out of it. I have a nice looking led flashlight at home.

 

[Northern Bob]

Ok, I'll bite. How did you go about making that No-eGo? I want to step up from my regular Riva 510 kit. I'm assuming your mod use a protected 14500? If you have instructions/diagrams you would be willing to share I would be very grateful Dudeman. Not having done a mod yet, this looks like a good start.

N.B.

It wouldn't matter where they put the circuit board. It still would have fried. That's the downfall with these batteries and the exact reason I no longer use them. There is no short circuit protection built in.

If you get something like this: Emergency AA Battery Mobile Phone Charger Nokia MOTO SE | eBay you can make your own No-eGo that will take a 14500 battery. I've made a few. Goodprophets sells an eGo circuit board for $4 as well if you want to go the rebuilding route.

 

[cyberwolf]

big Question is, how you took it apart? i have a brand new one that is fully charged and just flashes when you screw the attie on.

Was gonna take it apart. But most of the time i'm a backyard mechanic working on a Rolex. LOL

They're actually pretty easy to take apart, at least from the switch end. Just rock the switch back and forth on the battery tube while pulling on both and they will start to work apart. Putting an old atty on it will help you get more leverage. The trick is to pull hard enough, yet be able to stop as soon as they come apart. You only have about a half inch before you yank the wire right out of the switch or battery.

For your specific problem, have you tried a different atty? That sounds like a short or too low of resistance.

 

[Dubs58]

big Question is, how you took it apart? i have a brand new one that is fully charged and just flashes when you screw the attie on.
Was gonna take it apart. But most of the time i'm a backyard mechanic working on a Rolex. LOL

If a battery flashes when an atty or carto is screwed on it means its not making contact (usually the center) with the battery.

 

[JW50]

If a battery flashes when an atty or carto is screwed on it means its not making contact (usually the center) with the battery.

That would not seem to make sense to me. If no contact is made it would be like a batt without an atty. That is, no flash unless button is depressed. On other hand, if atty has very, very little resistance (like a short), LED of batt would (I think) flash three times then quit. And, guessing here, think what happens is circuit board in batt shell senses short between + and - terminals and cuts off circuit to prevent uncontrolled discharge.

 

[Dubs58]

That would not seem to make sense to me. If no contact is made it would be like a batt without an atty. That is, no flash unless button is depressed. On other hand, if atty has very, very little resistance (like a short), LED of batt would (I think) flash three times then quit. And, guessing here, think what happens is circuit board in batt shell senses short between + and - terminals and cuts off circuit to prevent uncontrolled discharge.

Opps, I read it wrong. I thought he meant the light flashed after he screwed the atty on and "then" pressed the button.