My very own EverCool Variable!

Status
Not open for further replies.

j21blackjack

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2010
272
18
Georgia
I can't thank BigBlue30 enough, and a couple of others on the other evercool thread for the help and answering my questions. Took me all of about 5 hours to get everything together. Soldering the POT upside down was a major PITA, but well worth it to be able to adjust the voltage externally on the fly. The thing is so tight inside, I don't plan on using any epoxy at all, just a little dab of super glue on the LEDs. I can't convince my box to close the last half a millimeter, but who cares, I've got one kick @#$ variable voltage box. Best $30 I've spent so far in my ecig journey.

I measured my output voltage (unloaded) at 3.5 - 6.0 volts with freshly charged batteries.

Here she is:

IMG_1629.JPG


Atty connector:

IMG_1631.JPG


Green "Power On" Go Light

IMG_1633.JPG


Red "Fire" Light

IMG_1634.JPG



IMG_1635.JPG


IMG_1636.JPG
 
Last edited:

j21blackjack

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2010
272
18
Georgia
looks good! what pot did you use?

That's a 200 ohm thumb wheel POT. I had to solder it in with the leads coming out on the non-copper side. The POT actually blocks half of the PCB, so I had to solder everything else onto the board first, then solder the POT in.

Couldn't you find any thicker wire?

Well, BigBlue30 used 20awg wire on his, so I decided I would try it too. It is some mighty thick wire to work with. If I had used the 26awg wire that came with the box, then things would have fit much easier, but it wouldn't look as impressive.
 

j21blackjack

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 16, 2010
272
18
Georgia
You can't see it in the pictures, but I actually broke pin 1 on the chips on accident. Guess I came pretty close to ruining the whole thing. This happened because I soldered the chip in before I bent the pins down. When I soldered it I didn't leave enough slack to be able to bend it down flat with the board.
 

bigblue30

Super Member
ECF Veteran

Scubabatdan

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 14, 2009
4,749
6,733
61
Dothan, AL
That's a 200 ohm thumb wheel POT. I had to solder it in with the leads coming out on the non-copper side. The POT actually blocks half of the PCB, so I had to solder everything else onto the board first, then solder the POT in.



Well, BigBlue30 used 20awg wire on his, so I decided I would try it too. It is some mighty thick wire to work with. If I had used the 26awg wire that came with the box, then things would have fit much easier, but it wouldn't look as impressive.


Nice Job! One question to clarify, you said a 200 ohms POT, did you not mean a 200K POT as recommended?
Excellent job, working on mine now but with a touch switch, LED and custom board with SMD caps and resistors.
Dan
 

o4_srt

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 2, 2010
816
13
Lancaster, PA
Nice Job! One question to clarify, you said a 200 ohms POT, did you not mean a 200K POT as recommended?
Excellent job, working on mine now but with a touch switch, LED and custom board with SMD caps and resistors.
Dan


schematic in the original post has a 200 ohm listed. Is this incorrect?

Theoretically, if one would cut the value of the pot in half (to 100, or 100k, whichever it is), one could halve the value of the other resistor to accomplish the same thing, correct?

If it does turn out to be 200k, I ordered the wrong part, but we have a ton of 100k trimmers at work.
 

bigblue30

Super Member
ECF Veteran
schematic in the original post has a 200 ohm listed. Is this incorrect?

Theoretically, if one would cut the value of the pot in half (to 100, or 100k, whichever it is), one could halve the value of the other resistor to accomplish the same thing, correct?

If it does turn out to be 200k, I ordered the wrong part, but we have a ton of 100k trimmers at work.

Sorry j21blackjack for filling up your post.....

200 OHM is correct for this chip (PTR08100W ). It does not work like the ucc383.

The "control" resistor goes between pin 3 and 4 only. There is no R1,R2 like in the ucc383.

The 220 ohm fixed is there to make sure that the control never goes lower than 220 ohms.

From the spec sheet:

5.5 volts =241 ohms

4.0 volts = 347 ohms

3.0 volots = 491 ohms

As you can see....as the res. goes down, the output goes up.

 
Last edited:

Scubabatdan

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 14, 2009
4,749
6,733
61
Dothan, AL
schematic in the original post has a 200 ohm listed. Is this incorrect?

Theoretically, if one would cut the value of the pot in half (to 100, or 100k, whichever it is), one could halve the value of the other resistor to accomplish the same thing, correct?

If it does turn out to be 200k, I ordered the wrong part, but we have a ton of 100k trimmers at work.


Thank for the correction BB, I was think of the ucc383 chip (brain fart on my end) LOL
sorry about the confusion.
Dan
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread