The iron ding is the culprit. I'll take a file to it when I get home. Oh yeah, and there is no glue anywhere in the box, except one drop of superglue per LED. I may use a little epoxy to try and get the POT and the Master ON/OFF a little more level with the box, they are at a little bi tof a tilt.
My very own EverCool Variable!
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The iron ding is the culprit. I'll take a file to it when I get home. Oh yeah, and there is no glue anywhere in the box, except one drop of superglue per LED. I may use a little epoxy to try and get the POT and the Master ON/OFF a little more level with the box, they are at a little bi tof a tilt.
Aw man! I broke 3 pins off my PTR08100W...
Was almost done with the mod after a tiring 4 hour mod session when it broke.. and i lost my solder "Sucker" so ill have to go grab one tomorrow to remove the pins from the chip itself and mod it with softer pins probably from an LED.
im not too if sure if i shorted the chip or anything (Unlikely because i didnt plug in the batteries at this point yet., however i found something weird. For me not being a very Electronic inclined < Specifications wise. Can i get help from big blue or anyone that has the PTR08100W on this, I didnt do any connectivity check on the chip itself out of the box before i used it. after my pics broke, i just fiddled with it with a my multimeter and realised that there are some connectivity between the pics. namely, 3+4+5 and 4+5 it seems to be showing resistance ? are they related in any way? Is it the mechanism that regulates the voltage?
The resistance detected and mainly in the 15 - 20k Ohm ranges.
Appreciate advice from someone who knows about this.. Thanks!
Was almost done with the mod after a tiring 4 hour mod session when it broke.. and i lost my solder "Sucker" so ill have to go grab one tomorrow to remove the pins from the chip itself and mod it with softer pins probably from an LED.
im not too if sure if i shorted the chip or anything (Unlikely because i didnt plug in the batteries at this point yet., however i found something weird. For me not being a very Electronic inclined < Specifications wise. Can i get help from big blue or anyone that has the PTR08100W on this, I didnt do any connectivity check on the chip itself out of the box before i used it. after my pics broke, i just fiddled with it with a my multimeter and realised that there are some connectivity between the pics. namely, 3+4+5 and 4+5 it seems to be showing resistance ? are they related in any way? Is it the mechanism that regulates the voltage?
The resistance detected and mainly in the 15 - 20k Ohm ranges.
Appreciate advice from someone who knows about this.. Thanks!
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i broke mine off too, made jumpers using tinned 24 AWG wire, worked just fine. Can't speak on the resistance issue, never bothered to measure.
Madshock, The only one I have at this time is in my mod.
pin 4 to 5 = 2k
3 to 5 = 372 I am sure this is the adj resistor setup.
3 to 4 2.3 k
Like I said the chip is install on the board with all the other parts.
sorry....not going to remove the chip at this point...lol
Is it possible to use this chip, PTR08060W, in place of the PTR08100W? The only difference I can see between the two is one is 10A and the other is 6A. For our application this shouldn't make a difference, should it?
Yep...Both are the same except for the amp rating...I think everyone is using this one because the 60 was out of stock..... for "samples".
So I've got three more chips on the way, and I'm already planning on how to build them. I want to go to a tactile switch on the inhibit pin.
They have a 200,000 cycle life, so I figure that's a pretty good number. Does anyone have any other suggestions for NC style switches. I'd really like to totally geek it out and use one of those skin contact switches, or heat switches, whatever they are.
They have a 200,000 cycle life, so I figure that's a pretty good number. Does anyone have any other suggestions for NC style switches. I'd really like to totally geek it out and use one of those skin contact switches, or heat switches, whatever they are.
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That may sound like a lot. Do the math. Say you vape 8 hours out of a day. That's 480 minutes. Do you press about 4 times a minute? You'll hit 200,000 in about 4 months.
Now this small NC switch has 1,000,000 operations at a rated load of 1A.
Digi-Key - GH1364-ND (Manufacturer - 30-2)
I don't know if it will work out exactly like that, but 1,000,000 does sound better.
PS, your link don't work.
Thanks for the link, unfortunately I've already placed my order with digikey. Those switches do sound good, but they don't really look any smaller than the radio shack switches I've been using. That rating is for full load, so I'm sure it's really much more than 1,000,000 cycles. Maybe if one of my switches fails here in a few months, I'll try one of those. I've also have two 3.7v mods with 50mA rated switches that are still going strong after a month with no noticeable effects from using the underrated switch. I'm sure it's only a matter of time, but it won't be too hard to change out the switches if I need to. All of my newer boxes have 3A switches in them.
I thought I had lost my evercool on Sunday. I leaked a large amount of liquid out onto the top of the box. Next thing I know, my power light went out and would not come back on no matter what. I waited about 5 minutes and tried again, and luckily it started working again. I guess the liquid leaked inside and shorted something out.
i heard that liquid for some reason is not conductive... and lemme tell again. yer box looks fudging cool!!! how many turns is that wheel?
J12blackjack,
I am glad it started working again.
misterD,
I also have read that juice is conductive and non-conductive, so I thought I would see for myself.
This morning I connected 2 pieces of wire to my meter and taped then together with just the ends striped. I put the 2 striped end as close together as I could without getting a ohm reading.
When I toughed the 2 striped ends with just my finger and thumb I got a reading of 3 meg.
I then starting dipping the 2 ends into different liquid.
PGA=1.3 meg
PG = 27 meg
PG/VG 50% = 8 meg
freedom smoke liquid = 2.5 meg
20/80 honey liquid = 5 meg
DIY flavor shack = 6 meg
I did not have any pure PG so I could not test that.
I think that the test show that liquid will conduct a little, but I do not think it is enough to "short" out a mod.
So what happened to your evercool? I think that some liquid got into the switch and insulated the 2 contacts until you pushed the button enough to dry or clean the contacts.
I know that I have had a few auto batteries act up when I got liquid into the switch. I believe this was a mechanical problem more then an electrical one. The liquid would get between the contacts and not let it fire, or the liquid would get behind the switch and keep the 2 contacts closed.
Anyone else have any ideas?
That could very well be what happened because after flipping the switch multiple times, it started to work again.
The thumb wheel is less than one full turn, 240 degrees I think.
The thumb wheel is less than one full turn, 240 degrees I think.
A coworker and I both had the same problem last week. MOD worked fine without a load but shut down as soon as the atty was attached.
While troubleshooting the problem I noticed that the battery contacts in those plastic boxes had loosened up.
There is plastic keeping the positive battery end from making good contact anyway. Not sure why leaking juice made the problem worse, but bending the clips seemed to fix the problem on both of our mods. Prior to this I had noticed that some times the batteies would not make contact at all and I was rotating and reinstalling them to get them to work.
I believe the contact was not sufficient to deliver the current needed.
While troubleshooting the problem I noticed that the battery contacts in those plastic boxes had loosened up.
There is plastic keeping the positive battery end from making good contact anyway. Not sure why leaking juice made the problem worse, but bending the clips seemed to fix the problem on both of our mods. Prior to this I had noticed that some times the batteies would not make contact at all and I was rotating and reinstalling them to get them to work.
I believe the contact was not sufficient to deliver the current needed.
I've said it few times whenever I see neat little, or no glue atty connectors. No matter how careful you think you are e-liquid will work it's way into the box. If you're using epoxy lay it on thick and wide. But do note that PG e-liquid, in my tests, will eventually compromise the bond of almost every adhesive, epoxy, silicone (type 1), CA and hot glue for sure. I'm currently testing a common but hard to work neatly (as if I really care) adhesive which seems to be impervious to PG e-liquid. In out of the box tests it's fine, I'll see how it holds up as the connector heats up in real world use.
If anyone has any Gorilla/polyurethane type glue it be great if you stuck some metal to an old box, let it set, then soak it in e-liquid as a test.
A good trick I learned (probably from this board) is to swipe a small bead of epoxy (I used JB Weld) around the battery connector before you slide it into the box. This makes sure you get a good seal around the entire connector. Otherwise, it's really tough to apply the stuff underneath the connector when it's already in the box.
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